At what distance should furniture handles be attached? DIY: How to Install Handles on Drawers or Cabinets

When assembling cabinet furniture, the design of which includes hinged facades or pull-out shelves, it is often necessary to install furniture handles. Today, the market offers a huge variety of pens in size, shape, design, color and material. But all the variety of handles has one thing in common - the type of attachment to the facade. The main applications are handles with one- and two-point fastening. Such handles are attached to the facade using screws installed in drilled holes on the facade. There are also handles that are attached to the end of the facade, and even built-in (mortise) handles. To attach this type of handles, grooves on the facades must be milled.

Let's talk about the simplest handles with one- and two-point fastening that are accessible to home craftsmen. Handles with single-point fastening can be different in shape and design - mushroom-shaped (or so-called button handles) or so-called earring handles. Mostly such handles can be found on old furniture. Handles with two-point fastening, also often called a handle-bracket, also have a huge variety. Installation of these types of handles requires one thing - drilling holes on the facade. This means that installation errors like those of a sapper are deplorable))). It’s very disappointing to see a crookedly installed handle on a brand new façade. And if the facades are arranged in a row, then a crookedly screwed handle will look like a “White Crow” and spoil the whole look. Reinstalling such a handle means drilling a new hole.

So before drilling a hole for the handle, you need to quite accurately mark the center of the holes. When installing handle brackets, it is also important not to forget about the center-to-center distance. It’s understandable when professional furniture makers, who manufacture furniture on a regular basis, have special conductors or, in general, everything is done on CNC machines.

But at home, when handles are not installed every day, making devices is not entirely advisable. I will tell you about my method of how to quickly but efficiently mark the center of the holes. A simpler method can be used, but in my case the difficulty was due to the fact that the markings were carried out on painted facades that had rounded edges on all sides. You can’t easily apply a ruler to such edges))). To do this, we need a ruler of sufficient length, a corner, a T-shaped ruler (or another corner), a tape measure and a pencil. And also two drills with drills - centering and main. Two drills are generally for convenience, so as not to rearrange the drills every time, so you can get by with one.

Let's start with mathematics. We measure the total width of the facade with a tape measure. We measure if we do not know the center-to-center distance of the furniture handle. In general, this is a simple formula:

where A is the distance from the edge of the facade to the center of the hole for the handle;

L is the width of the façade;

M is the center-to-center distance of the furniture handle.

Let's start marking. To begin with, using a square scale, we measure the distance of the horizontal marking line from the edge of the facade.

Then we apply a simple ruler, basing it along the crossbar of the T-shaped ruler (since the edges of the facades have radii) and measure the distance “A”, calculated by the formula (see above).

This way we mark the center of the first hole. We measure the second hole in the same way, only on the other side. Instead of a T-shaped and simple ruler, it was possible to get by with a second square of sufficient length. But I didn’t have a second one, so I had to get out of it this way). If you need to prepare several identical facades for drilling, then (in my case) I marked the distance “A” with a pencil and for further marking I used only a square and a T-shaped ruler.

But we are not in a hurry to drill, first, as the old saying goes: “Measure 7 times and cut once,” apply a pen and make sure that the resulting markings exactly match the holes in the pen.

Once convinced, we begin to drill. For precise drilling, pre-drill centering holes.

Yes, I would like to point out the following:

• It is better not to neglect the centering drill; it will allow you to more accurately direct a drill of larger diameter in the desired direction;
• Also, the centering hole, making it easier for a large drill to enter, reduces the likelihood of chips and cracks. Especially in my case - facades painted mdf and the paint layer is very fragile and is afraid of sharp impacts. last photo it is clear that the holes turned out smooth and “clean”;
• when drilling, it is better to use a sharp (well-sharpened or new) drill;
• Choose a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the mounting screw so that the screw fits freely into the hole. Otherwise, if the screw fits tightly into the hole, you risk “lifting” the edges of the hole with the thread of the screw. Secondly, a small gap will allow you to select the error in the spatial location of the drilled holes (I’m talking about fractions of a millimeter, not perceptible to the eye, but sometimes perceptible during installation). But the drill should not be too large in diameter so that the handle fits into place as accurately as possible.
• so that you don't end up with a chip reverse side, at the exit of the drill, you need to drill on the substrate, pressing the facade tightly against it;
• In order to eliminate the appearance of defects, it is better to start drilling from the outside of the facade.
• In one of the photos you can see that there is tape wrapped around the drill. The adhesive tape serves as a beacon so as not to drill through the facade and the substrate and not spoil the floor))). I do not recommend using a drill stop washer, because... When drilling, you run the risk of hitting the washer against the facade and leaving round scratches around the hole on the facade for a long memory.

This article is an attempt to provide detailed instructions for those who decide to independently drill holes for handles and then install them on a furniture façade.

Chief technologist of furniture production Timur Denisov will tell you step by step how to drill and install handles on a swing door and on the front of a drawer yourself.

Marking, drilling and installing furniture handles on a swing facade

1 Marking the facade for furniture handles

Required tools:

• metal ruler;
• construction tape;
• square;
• a simple soft pencil or marker.

Marking stages:

1. place the façade on a flat surface;
2. mark from the edge 50 mm parallel to the future location of the handle;
3. using a square we draw a straight line;
4. mark again 50 mm from the top of the facade;
5. draw a straight line perpendicular to the previous one;
6. From the resulting point (at which both lines intersect) we measure a distance equal to the center-to-center size of the furniture handle.

Important! Before marking the place for drilling holes on the facade, measure the center distance on the handle itself. Most common distance: 64; 96; 128 mm.

2 Drilling holes

Where the lines intersect, carefully drill through holes for handles.

Please note that the drill must be sharp and the drilling itself must be done slowly so as not to tear out particles of the laminate.

This is how it should look - the markings and drilled holes are clearly visible in the photo.

3 Installing a furniture handle on a swing facade

Even a novice amateur can handle this. Insert the screws into the prepared holes, place a furniture handle on them and screw them on.

If after these steps the handle dangles, it means the screw is longer than necessary. In this case, it is advisable to replace the screw or place a special seal under its head.

Marking, drilling and installing the handle on the front of the drawer

The principle of marking and drilling remains the same as in the considered instructions for swing facades.

The main nuance is the difference in installing (screwing) the furniture handle to the retractable facade.

The design of a drawer assumes the presence of two walls through which the screw of the furniture handle must pass.

When deciding to install handles on your furniture yourself, make sure you have long screws in advance. Ideally, their size should be equal to two thicknesses of laminated chipboard plus 4...5 mm.

That's all!

As you can see, it’s not so scary and absolutely not difficult to mark, drill and screw furniture handles to the facades. The main thing is to be attentive and strictly follow the instructions.

Always yours, Timur Denisov

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If you order a kitchen set, you can immediately make additives for handles on kitchen facades in production. This is convenient if, for example, you plan to install button handles that have small size and are attached to the facade with one screw. But with handles-rails or handles-brackets it is a little more complicated; the fact is that on a sketch of a kitchen set it is not always possible to determine the best position of the handles, vertical or horizontal. At incorrect location handles in the kitchen may cause blocking of neighboring cabinets or cabinets, especially this often happens on corner ones kitchen sets. In such cases, apply a furniture handle to the facade and try to open it, but no obstacles should arise. Depending on the situation, handles on kitchen fronts can be arranged: all vertically, all horizontally, or combined.

If you decide install handles on facades yourself, you will need the following handle installation tools: square, pencil or marker with a thin rod, screwdriver, 4 mm or 5 mm drill and screwdriver.

For more accurate and quick installation of handles on kitchen facades, you can use a furniture handle template. The template is a rectangular piece of thick paper or plywood with holes for fasteners. Thanks to the furniture handle template, you can quickly mark holes for fastening handles on all facades. Regardless of how you are going to make markings, with or without a template, the first thing you need to do is measure the center distance on the handle, although the manufacturer usually indicates it. Based on existing standards, the center-to-center distance of handles, this is the distance from one fastening to another, is always a multiple of 32. The most common center-to-center dimensions of furniture handles are 96 mm, 128 mm.

kitchen with handles and railings

When furniture handles are placed horizontally in the kitchen, it is necessary to measure the width of the facade itself, subtract the center-to-center distance of the handle from this width, and divide the remaining value by two. For example, a front with a width of 600 mm and a handle with a center distance of 128 mm.

Furniture handles for the kitchen - everything you need to know about them

We get: 600-128 = 472/2 = 236 mm. It is necessary to leave 236 mm on both sides to the center distances of the handle. At the bottom you can leave a distance equal to the width of the ruler, this is approximately 20 mm - 30 mm, depending on the type of square. To do this, you need to align the outer edge of the ruler flush with the horizontal edge of the facade.

When placing furniture handles vertically in the kitchen, you can also use the width of the ruler. Place the outer edge of the ruler flush with the vertical edge of the façade. In this case, you can immediately use a ruler to measure the distance from the horizontal edge of the facade, for example, 20 mm. If you install handle rails vertically on kitchen facades, consider the distance from the horizontal edge of the facade to the edge of the handle, and not to the first mounting hole, as with the handle bracket.

horizontal and vertical installation of handles

Handle Installation Tool

For wooden kitchen facade or MDF facades, use sharp step or core drills with a diameter of 4 mm or 5 mm. A drill with a diameter of 5 mm is used in the case when the shape of the handle during installation can block the hole, this gives more accurate positioning of the handle, the bolt can be slightly shifted in the hole. But there are forms of handles that do not cover the hole; in this case, it is better to use a 4 mm or 3.5 mm diameter.

If the hole in the facade for attaching the handle is quite deep that it is impossible to tighten the handle, pour sawdust into this hole so that the furniture handle can be tightened.

In order to make holes in glass at home, use special diamond-coated drills. Also holes in glass Can do using molten tin, this will help prevent accidental cracks from appearing on the glass. This method requires tin used for soldering and sand. Markings are made on the glass and sand is poured. Make a funnel of the required diameter in the sand and pour molten tin into this funnel. After a few seconds, when the solder has cooled, it can be removed along with the sand and glass tube.

It should also not be forgotten that when installing handles to glass facades It is necessary to install an additional washer on the bolt side. The washer will protect the glass from cracking and prevent the fastening from becoming loose.

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Installing handles on drawer fronts

In general, we have already discussed how to drill holes for furniture handles in our publications. But furniture handles in drawers are a topic that I simply cannot ignore. For it is precisely the variety of technologies for installing furniture handles that shows the degree of sophistication, as well as the perversity of the imagination of some of our colleagues in the furniture business.

For example, the peculiarity of screwing a furniture handle to the front of a drawer is that if you want the bolt to pass through the front wall of the drawer and the front, then its length should be about 40mm. But the problem is that the handles come with shorter bolts. Personally, I just bought long bolts and calmly screwed the handles to the fronts of the drawers. I advise you to do the same.

But in production there are not always long bolts. So what should a furniture maker do? After all, running to the store for bolts is not his job. And if the supplier has not provided the production with bolts, and the order must be submitted urgently. So what should we do then? This is where the “perversions” begin. They make a recess in the façade, grind off the bolts, begin to adjust everything, and so on. In general, there are a lot of problems, and the supplier is to blame for everything. And it’s good if the supplier is as much a forced bird as the collector himself.

How to properly install handles on kitchen facades

Then you can say to him: “What are you doing, you little pig?!” But what if the director of the company makes the purchases? You can't call him a piglet. In general, in such situations you have to growl quietly and patiently pervert, silently solving the task at hand. This is what it is like – the hard life of a forced cabinet furniture assembler.

Actually, we can say that we have considered the full production cycle of a standard drawer. I congratulate you! You've learned how to make drawers! But life is structured in such a way that there is room for all sorts of non-standard solutions. So, I invite you to move on to the next post, which talks about how to make a drawer with a front without handles.

Calculation, production and assembly of drawers<<

Designers compare handles to spices that add a unique flavor to a dish—they complete the kitchen. Front fittings can emphasize the beauty of facades, or they can easily ruin the entire impression of beautiful kitchen furniture. Take the time to choose them - and you will definitely thank yourself for a comfortable and beautiful kitchen. And our review will help you with this.

How to buy the right handles for kitchen furniture, materials, prices, manufacturers, popular types of handles and designer tips on choosing furniture fittings for the kitchen - in this article.

Do you like smooth, even facades? Technologies for the production of modern kitchen sets make it possible to do without fittings. The most obvious solution is to use Push-to-Open mechanisms. The option is not as expensive as is commonly believed (for example, IKEA has budget solutions), it is very durable and very convenient. Another option is milling, special recesses on the facades that replace handles. An excellent solution for sleek modern kitchens in a minimalist style.

Materials

Facial fittings are most often made from alloys, usually based on zinc and aluminum. Examples are Zamak (composed of zinc, aluminum, magnesium and copper) and Znal (composed of zinc and aluminum). Thanks to the special properties of these alloys, it is easy to make strong and durable handles of the most intricate shapes from them.

The decorative coating of the fittings perfectly imitates a variety of metals - bronze, gold, silver, chrome, copper, brass, nickel, etc. The surface can be matte or shiny. Imitation of aged metal is very popular. Manufacturers achieve the “antique” look of handles in different ways, for example, using patination (applying a special composition to the surface). In general, antique bronze - old or antique bronze, as manufacturers often call it - is one of the most favorite decorative options for kitchen fittings in classic, country and Provence styles. In modern kitchens, the undisputed leader is handles coated in matte or glossy chrome.

Porcelain (plain or beautifully painted) and rock crystal crystals or their imitation - rhinestones are often used as decorations.

The widest range of facial accessories can be found in specialized online stores. There you can find unusual handles for kitchen units - made of transparent and translucent plastic or acrylic (the so-called transparency), leather, with inserts made of wood and colored glass, etc.

Handles for kitchen cabinets last the longest if the decorative metal coating on their surface was applied by galvanic means. Galvanic coating is the thinnest (from fractions of a micron to tenths of a millimeter) metal film that protects the handle from corrosion, increases its wear resistance and enhances the decorative effect. Serious hardware manufacturing companies carry out the galvanization process after cutting threads for fasteners. This serves as a guarantee that rust will not appear in the fastening areas over time.

Cheap fittings with paint and varnish coating applied by spraying have a much shorter lifespan. It may look no worse than expensive analogues. But if you use such handles every day, and even in a kitchen with high humidity and temperature changes, their surface will quickly lose its appearance.

Dimensions

The most important point when choosing a handle for kitchen fronts is the so-called center-to-center distance (the space between the holes for the mounting screws). It must be indicated in any description of a furniture handle and can be very different - from 16 to 1053 mm (depending on the type of handle and manufacturer) with a standard pitch of 32 mm.

5 popular types of handles for kitchen furniture

Handles-brackets are the most popular type of facial fittings. They have a U-shaped or curved arched shape and fit comfortably in the hand. A big plus is that they are securely attached to the facades with two screws. In the assortment of hardware stores you can find a huge number of options for a kitchen in any style. The most popular options are with center-to-center distances from 16 to 480 mm.

Railing handles most often purchased for a kitchen set in a modern style. Their design is simple and elegant: a thin crossbar in the form of a cylinder or plank (straight, not concave) and two bracket holders at the edges. The ends of the crossbar can protrude beyond the legs, or they can immediately go into them (in fact, this is a version of the handle-brace). The most popular railing type handles have a center-to-center distance ranging from 96 to 608 mm.

Knob handles look a little old-fashioned, so they are rarely placed on the doors of modern-style furniture. But they will perfectly complement and decorate a kitchen in a classic, retro, country or Provence style.

Actually, it is customary to call such handles, where the “head” is attached to the facade on one low leg, a button. Their size is usually small. They can be very different in shape - round, oval, square, rectangular, flat and convex, smooth and curly, in the form of a flower, a starfish and even a seahorse.

“Buttons” are most often placed on small drawers and doors with a narrow facade or glass inserts, and on wider facades they can be accompanied by handles-brackets - with their help it is more convenient to pull out heavy drawers. For example, IKEA designers often offer such a solution for their kitchens.

Profile handles (or handles moldings)- in fact, this is a piece of hollow aluminum, less often plastic, profile. It is attached to the top or side of the kitchen door and fits tightly to the facade, in most cases without protruding above its surface. This profile between the hinged door and the tabletop is not very noticeable. But in modules with drawers it will be very noticeable against the background of contrasting facades.

Mortise (built-in) handles- the choice of those who do not like fittings protruding above the surface of the doors. They cut into the plane of the furniture facade and merge with its plane. Installing them is quite difficult, they look specific, so they are rarely found in Russian-made kitchens.

Other types of handles are “drops”, “rings”, “earrings” and “shells” (shells) are also rarely used in kitchen sets. They are well suited for a buffet or cupboard with dishes, but on kitchen fronts they will not be very convenient.

Touch pens with LED backlight

Technological and stylish, practical and functional furniture handles for modern kitchens with LEDs. When lightly touched, a soft light comes on and goes out after 30 seconds. LED lighting does not heat up the handles, so the façade of the headset will not be damaged. Stylish, beautiful and safe. The illuminated handles are powered by regular batteries - the compact power supply is neatly hidden on the inside of the facade and is easily attached with double-sided tape.

The matte surface of such fittings is made of special plastic. It is pleasant to the touch and gently diffuses light. Please note that luminous pens differ in their design and come in two types. The first one shines “outward” in the direction from the facades. The second is “inside”, its soft glow will even better emphasize the beauty of your furniture.

Ready-made economy class headsets are already equipped with standard fittings, usually inexpensive and with the simplest design. But if you decide to make a custom-made kitchen, the designer in the salon will definitely offer you to choose handles from the catalog and advise which ones are best suited to a specific model of the set. But you can choose any option that suits your taste best. What should you pay attention to when choosing fittings yourself?

• The most important thing is that the handles should be very comfortable for you, because you will have to open and close kitchen cabinets and drawers many times every day. At the same time, they should fit into the design of your kitchen and look harmonious against the background of the facades.
• The handle, especially a bracket or rail handle, should be easy to grip. Ideally, the width of the palm should fit into it, not a pair of fingers. If you order a kitchen from a salon, be sure to try out the handles you have chosen. Listen to the sensations, whether they fit comfortably in your hand. If you decide to buy kitchen handles online, focus primarily on the center-to-center distance - it must be indicated in the description. As a rule, for a comfortable handle the minimum is 96 mm, 128 mm is better. Measure the width of your palm - it will become a guide for choosing the optimal size.
• The fittings must be safe. No sharp corners or edges, elements that protrude too much above the surface, nicks or defects in the decorative coating. If you have small children, do not forget about safety locks and locks that will prevent them from opening cabinet doors or pulling out dangerous drawers.
• After receiving an order from an online store or paying for a purchase in a regular store, be sure to inspect the appearance and completeness of the fittings and fasteners. All pens must have the same shade of finish. There should be no scratches or chips on the ceramics, the rhinestones should be well secured.
• If the handle on kitchen fronts is located horizontally, it should not be too large relative to the width of the door. Otherwise, when opening the cabinet, it will touch adjacent doors, the wall, drawer fronts and other handles.
• If the kitchen modules are more or less the same size, feel free to use the same handles for all cabinets. If the kitchen front combines large fronts and small drawers, it makes sense to use handles that are commensurate with them. But don't overdo it - 2 sizes (one larger, one smaller) will be enough.
• Massive handles on the upper facades visually greatly overload the kitchen, especially a small one. If you don’t want to use a “push-to-open” mechanism or profile handles, you should choose compact-sized fittings with a laconic, discreet design.
• Pay attention to the combination of the metal tone with the rest of the interior elements of your kitchen. It is better if all metal parts are the same - for example, only bronze, gold or chrome. It is desirable that the surface of the fittings be either matte or shiny. The proximity of both in one kitchen can look disharmonious.

The golden rule for choosing fittings is that they must be proportional to the headset modules. The narrower the façade, the shorter the handle. For standard kitchen modules with a width of 600 mm, long horizontal railing handles with a center distance of 436 mm are often recommended. For doors with a width of 500 mm, you should take a handle no larger than 336 mm. With a width of 450, 400 and 350 mm - no more than 192 mm. For narrow cabinets and drawers with a width of 300 and 200 mm, you should not take handles with a center-to-center distance of more than 96 mm, but it is better to use a button handle, a drop or a shell.

Pay attention to the kitchen modules near the wall. If the cabinets are close to the wall with a minimum gap between them, the door will not open completely, and the handle will rest against the wall with the risk of damaging the wallpaper. In this case, you should choose a smaller handle and place it vertically rather than horizontally - this will increase the opening angle. But the best solution is to move the cabinet away from the wall about five centimeters and cover the gap with a false panel.

Selecting handles to match the style of the kitchen

Modern style, hi-tech, minimalism

The best choice is handles with brackets and railings. For a simple, laconic interior, fittings of a simple shape with a minimalistic, strict design are suitable. If you want to add some sparkle to your kitchen, handles with rhinestones, crystals or handles with a spectacular “wicker” decor (these can be either staples or button handles) will become a spectacular accent. A good solution is mortise or profile handles. Smooth modern facades are an excellent backdrop for textured wooden handles.

Classic, country, Provence

The most practical option is staples; button handles (round, square or oval) work well. “Earrings” or “drops” are used less often. The kitchen style is complemented by imitation forging, artificially aged surface, characteristic patterns and carved ornaments. Handles made entirely of ceramics or models with porcelain inserts (plain or painted pastoral decors) are very typical.

At flea markets or in antique shops, you can unearth amazing old handles that will ideally complement the interior of a kitchen in a classic or country style. And the combination of handles that are similar in size and shape with different decors will only give your antique kitchen additional charm and create the atmosphere of a home with history.

Furniture handles in the form of cutlery

A very impressive detail that will decorate even the simplest and most inexpensive kitchen. Previously, furniture handles in the form of spoons, forks and knives could be bought at Leroy Merlin and some online stores, but recently they have disappeared somewhere. But different versions of such accessories can be purchased in foreign online stores, for example, on Aliexpress or Ebay.

Fastening is an important nuance

As a rule, screws for attaching handles to facades are included with them. The simplest fastening is with a universal screw. But when ordering more “capricious” and expensive facades made of solid wood, plastic and glass, a good showroom will offer you an additional “gasket” washer between the screw and the surface of the furniture. It will protect the facade from fastener pressure and possible damage, and therefore extend its service life.

Manufacturers

In terms of design and quality, European-made front fittings are traditionally considered to be the best. But due to the crisis, prices for kitchen handles from Italy (Eureka, Premiere Furniture, Colombo Design, Bosetti-Marella, Giusti, Besana), Spain (Estamp) and Germany (Union Knopf), Belgium (Metakor) have increased significantly. A medium-priced and good-quality option is Polish-made fittings (Gamet, Nomet, REJS). Russian manufacturers (Boyard) also offer a decent range of kitchen handles.
Inexpensive and practical handles for kitchen furniture can be bought in large furniture hypermarkets such as IKEA, OBI and Leroy Merlin. But if you are looking for something unusual, their range cannot be compared with the variety of options in specialized online hardware stores.

Price

Prices for front kitchen fittings in online stores on average start from 30-40 rubles per piece for the simplest bracket models and vary greatly depending on the country of production, type of metal, finish and complexity of decor. Railing handles in a modern style cost from 110 rubles. Most of the classic options in antique bronze finish are in the price range of 150-200 rubles per piece. Chromed ones will cost a little less.
Handles with crystal trim, especially from Swarovski, are expected to cost more - at least 250-300 rubles apiece. The more intricate the decor and the more crystals, the more expensive the model. It is not uncommon to find copies on sale for 600-900 rubles.
Inexpensive ceramic knobs without painting cost approximately 130 rubles apiece. Prices for hand-painted handles already start at 200 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and the complexity of the decor. (Rate this article! Already voted: 13 )

If you order a kitchen set, you can immediately make additives for handles on kitchen facades in production. This is convenient if, for example, you plan to install button handles, which are small in size and attached to the facade with one screw. But with handles-rails or handles-brackets it is a little more complicated; the fact is that on a sketch of a kitchen set it is not always possible to determine the best position of the handles, vertical or horizontal. If the handles in the kitchen are placed incorrectly, blocking of neighboring cabinets or cabinets may occur, this especially often happens on corner kitchen units. In such cases, they apply it to the facade and try to open it, but no obstacles should arise. Depending on the situation, handles on kitchen fronts can be arranged: all vertically, all horizontally, or combined.

If you decide install handles on facades yourself, you will need the following handle installation tools: square, pencil or marker with a thin rod, screwdriver, 4 mm or 5 mm drill and screwdriver.

For more accurate and quick installation of handles on kitchen facades, you can use a furniture handle template. The template is a rectangular piece of thick paper or plywood with holes for fasteners. Thanks to the furniture handle template, you can quickly mark holes for fastening handles on all facades. Regardless of how you are going to make markings, with or without a template, the first thing you need to do is measure the center distance on the handle, although the manufacturer usually indicates it. Based on existing standards, the center-to-center distance of handles, this is the distance from one fastening to another, is always a multiple of 32. The most common center-to-center dimensions of furniture handles are 96 mm, 128 mm.

When furniture handles are placed horizontally in the kitchen, it is necessary to measure the width of the facade itself, subtract the center-to-center distance of the handle from this width, and divide the remaining value by two. For example, a front with a width of 600 mm and a handle with a center distance of 128 mm. We get: 600-128 = 472/2 = 236 mm. It is necessary to leave 236 mm on both sides to the center distances of the handle. At the bottom you can leave a distance equal to the width of the ruler, this is approximately 20 mm - 30 mm, depending on the type of square. To do this, you need to align the outer edge of the ruler flush with the horizontal edge of the facade.

When placing furniture handles vertically in the kitchen, you can also use the width of the ruler. Place the outer edge of the ruler flush with the vertical edge of the façade. In this case, you can immediately use a ruler to measure the distance from the horizontal edge of the facade, for example, 20 mm. If you install handle rails vertically on kitchen facades, consider the distance from the horizontal edge of the facade to the edge of the handle, and not to the first mounting hole, as with the handle bracket.

Handle Installation Tool

For a wooden kitchen facade or MDF facade, use sharp step or core drills with a diameter of 4 mm or 5 mm. A drill with a diameter of 5 mm is used in the case when the shape of the handle during installation can block the hole, this gives more accurate positioning of the handle, the bolt can be slightly shifted in the hole. But there are forms of handles that do not cover the hole; in this case, it is better to use a 4 mm or 3.5 mm diameter.

If the hole in the facade for attaching the handle is quite deep that it is impossible to tighten the handle, pour sawdust into this hole so that the furniture handle can be tightened.

In order to make holes in glass at home, use special diamond-coated drills. Also holes in glass Can do using molten tin, this will help prevent accidental cracks from appearing on the glass. This method requires tin used for soldering and sand. Markings are made on the glass and sand is poured. Make a funnel of the required diameter in the sand and pour molten tin into this funnel. After a few seconds, when the solder has cooled, it can be removed along with the sand and glass tube.

It should also not be forgotten that when installing handles to glass facades It is necessary to install an additional washer on the bolt side. The washer will protect the glass from cracking and prevent the fastening from becoming loose.

Decorative ones perform both aesthetic and practical functions. The design of these elements emphasizes the style and overall appearance of the kitchen set and gives the interior integrity and completeness. In addition, the handles are easy to use, durable and securely fastened to the surface, because the doors of most kitchen cabinets and cabinets are used intensively.

Oblong silver handles look perfect on kitchen furniture

Handles on finished sets are installed or supplied by the manufacturer, but when making a kitchen according to an individual drawing, you will have to choose the fittings yourself. The appearance of this element can completely transform the design of the kitchen, so replacing handles is often done in the process of updating a boring interior.

Design and shape of handles for integrated and conventional kitchen fronts

Manufacturers of furniture fittings offer a huge range of products of this type. There are thousands of products on the market that differ in design, material of manufacture, shape and method of fastening. To understand all the variety and choose beautiful, durable and functional handles for your kitchen set, you should first familiarize yourself with the main varieties and features of this type of furniture.

Handles made of the following materials:

Galvanic coating, used by serious manufacturers, significantly extends the service life of metal handles and protects the surface from scratches and abrasions. When purchasing, you should ask the seller if such processing is available.

Copper handles with patterns are well suited for walnut furniture

Depending on the shape, furniture handles are divided into the following types:

• In the shape of a ring. They are made in harmony with wooden facades.
• Drop-shaped. A classic, inexpensive option, often used with plastic facades. From a practicality point of view, it is not the most convenient option, since the streamlined “drop” easily slips out of wet fingers.
• Sinks. The shape follows the downward-facing shell of the shell.
• Buttons. Compact products are made from all available materials, which allows you to choose the right option for any facade.
• Staples. The most practical and common option, providing a comfortable grip. Produced mainly from metal alloys.
• Railing handles for the kitchen are a smooth or matte tube of various sections, mounted on two supports. The distance between supports ranges from 96 to 800 mm. Ideal for interiors designed in modern or high-tech style.

You can ensure convenient and comfortable opening of doors not only with the help of furniture handles. Popular system Push-to- Open allows you to open or close the door with a light press; in other models, milling is used to create grooves - such recesses are not inferior in functionality to handles, and the facade remains smooth, without protruding elements.

Rules for selecting profile options, McMart, invisible built-in models

When choosing handles for kitchen facades, you should pay attention to the following points:

• Material of manufacture. Kitchen fittings must have increased strength, resistance to abrasion and temperature changes, moisture resistance and durability. Such characteristics are fully inherent in products made of metal and wood.
• Design. Kitchen handles should be in harmony not only with the furniture set, but also with other furnishings.
• Mounting method. Kitchen furniture handles, which have one attachment point, can turn and become loose during use, gradually widening the mounting hole. Fastening at two points is more practical; in this case, the handles for kitchen cabinets are securely fixed in one position.
• Ease of use. The shape should be easy to grip both from above and below (or from the right and left for vertically positioned products) and not slip out of wet or greasy fingers. The surface should be easy to clean, since in the kitchen you often have to use your hands.

Classic silver handles look perfect with the lilac tone of the kitchen

Self-installation: does size matter for horizontal and vertical installation?

To install kitchen handles on your own, you will need a set of tools that every skilled owner has: a drill with a drill of the required diameter, a screwdriver, a tape measure and a pencil. Installation is performed as follows:

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