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Making arrangements suburban area, or country house the question arises of how to make a gate with your own hands. Before starting the workflow, it is worth deciding on the type, materials and installation method. Given all the nuances, you can make the gate yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals. Each type of gate differs from each other, has its own characteristics, quality characteristics. They are worth considering in more detail.

Swing type

In the photo of the gate you can see the simplest model to perform. The design of such a plan is equipped with a gate. This is a fairly common option for a private house. Pillars are used as the basis, they are set in width. The third pillar is needed in order to set the exact width of the gate.

Mounting takes place according to the following scheme of the gate:

First, the gate leaves, the gates are installed on welded hinges that are on the poles. This is an important stage, because depending on it, the side of their opening will be determined in the future.

In general, sashes are frames made of metal. Other options are possible, for example, a profile pipe, or an angle that is sheathed with a metal sheet, wood, or corrugated board.

There is a manufacturing option that involves the use of exclusively wood. In this case, it is worth fixing the boards on a reinforced frame.

Heavy gate structures should not be used, because this is a significant load on the hinges and support pillars. It is best to adhere to the weight of the sashes. The closing device is useful for the lock loop, you can use a powerful latch.

This type is really easy to install. Work can be done independently. It is worth considering in this case also disadvantages.

It is possible when installing the tilt of the supporting pillars, as well as sagging of the wings. This disadvantage is observed if the installation was initially violated. The reasons also include incorrect calculation of the weight of the valves. It is important to deepen the foundation of the supports. Heavy material will exacerbate the situation. The weight of the loops must match the material.

The advantages of this choice are as follows:

economical, fairly compact placement, there is no need to clear additional space for installation;
light assembly work.

The working process

For a successful end result, you need instructions for installing the gate yourself. If the weight of the gate is normal, then the choice of metal poles from pipes is considered optimal. Their diameter is on average about 80-100 mm.

A profiled pipe with the same diameter is also suitable. Such a plan of support elements perfectly cope with the task.

The following installation methods can be distinguished:

clogging;
concreting.

If we are talking about the first method, then the depth to which the pillars are driven is 1.2-1.3 m. This type has its advantages. Among them, reliability, as well as the speed of work, are of particular importance.

You should drill the hole you need. This should be half the depth of the future post.
Pillars should be installed in the wells. With the help of a sledgehammer, or a shock headstock, you can hammer them. At the same time, pay attention to the verticality of the rack.

The next step is attaching the posts to the fence posts. Then you need to weld the hinges. Designate a place for this in advance.

After that, the sashes should be hung on the hinges. At the same time, the correct convergence of the elements to the central part is checked.
The second installation method is concreting.

This method increases the rigidity as well as the stability index. This method will require the use of heavy and wide sashes.

Reinforcement is not carried out. You will need a reinforcing glass. The stages of the workflow for a beautiful homemade gate look like this:

drilling. The diameter is about 200 - 250 mm, the depth is about 1.9 mm;
prepare sand and gravel, they will be needed to fall asleep at the bottom of the pit. The components should be carefully compacted, each layer should be about 100 mm;
a pole is installed directly on a pillow of sand and gravel;
stands around its area to pour the solution. Until the moment when it hardens, it is important to install the post in a vertical manner. Use supports as anchors.

It can be used to install a reinforcing structure. In this case, installation work takes place in the same way as without the use of fittings.

conclusions

By carefully examining the drawings, and step by step instructions you can do all the work yourself. It is necessary to pay attention to the selection of the necessary materials, to enter the course of work.

It is best to work together with a person who has experience in this field. Then the quality and duration of work will pleasantly surprise you.

DIY gate photo

Owners of private houses and garages have long appreciated the convenience of swing type entrance gates.

This is natural, because such a design was almost the only one for hundreds of years.

Ease of use and reliability have always been valued. And now summer residents and owners of cottages continue to improve their design.

And if earlier they were basically wooden blind gates, then their modern type can be represented by a high-tech automated complex.

Types and types of swing gates

As noted above, swing entrance gates, depending on the material, can be of two types: wooden and metal. According to the design, it is customary to distinguish between two-sex gates (double-leaf) and with one hollow (sash).

Very often, especially in the construction of doors for garages, hangars and warehouses, a combined type is used - a two-story gate with a wicket. This saves space and materials for a separate entrance. But in most cases they are made as "blind" elements, and only in some places (state institutions, hospitals, etc.) can you find forged, lattice or tubular swing gates with an entrance to them.

Another type of gate is a metal swing gate with two sections using artistic design and (or) lined with a painted profiled sheet. The floors of the gate have a lighter appearance, and the entrance (wicket) is made next to them.

This type is perfect for a private house. It has been widely used because it serves for decades and practically does not require repair, unlike its wooden counterparts. Additionally, the design can be equipped with automation, which will further increase their functionality.

Swing gate device

Consider a drawing of a typical corrugated gate design. It is based on a frame made of a profile of a square or ordinary pipe with a diameter of 20 to 40 mm. Each sash can have one or two horizontal veins to enhance the rigidity of the structure (scheme 1).

Other options are also possible, for example, one horizontal and two diagonals. This arrangement clearly keeps the geometry of the gate (scheme 2).

It is really possible for any owner to make a swing gate with his own hands, if he has sufficient skills in assembling metal structures. You will need to be able to use welding machine, drill, grinder, screwdriver and measuring instruments. May also need painting.

Each gate leaf is screwed on with self-tapping screws or welded on hinges to the posts. Two hinges with a diameter of 20 or 30 mm are sufficient for the sash. The pillars are also made in the form of a metal pipe with a diameter of 70-76 mm, or profiled 20 x40 mm.

Iron pipes (hinged pole) can be used directly as a gate support, but depending on the design of the fence, they are mounted in brick (concrete) columns. To do this, it is necessary to provide two embedded parts in the brickwork, for which the hinged gate posts are welded. For diagonals (oblique) and transverse, it is recommended to use a profile of 20 x 20 or 20 x 40 mm.

It has been established by practice that the size of 3 meters can be considered the optimal width for private entrance gates. This is quite enough for any car or truck. If you want to save money, then you should not reduce the size by more than 20 cm. The height of the gate in most cases, excluding lifting above the ground, is two meters.

The locking mechanism of the gate, as a rule, consists of an “L” shaped pin (stopper) located at the bottom of each of the gates. At the base of the earth at the place of fixation of the gate, holes from pipes are provided, the inner diameter of which is 5-10 mm more than the thickness of the stopper. There are no strict restrictions on the length, but it is still desirable to make them no more than 50 cm. In addition to stoppers, a horizontal shutter can be provided, transverse along the line.

As already mentioned, the simplest and most practical option for finishing the gate is lining with a profiled sheet. The corrugated board will organically fit into the overall design if the fence is kept in the same style. Usually the profiled sheet on the gate is fixed at a distance of 5-7 cm from the level (base).

Gate automation

So far, we have considered the scheme of conventional swing gates. But what if you suddenly get tired of manually constantly opening and closing the doors, or for some reason you want to upgrade them. For this case, design engineers developed the so-called linear electric drives (automatics).

This system consists directly of the linear electric drives themselves (2 pieces), as well as the control unit, signal lamp, antenna and electromagnetic lock. Automatic swing gates are powered by a normal household AC voltage of 220 watts. In the photo, all elements of the system elegantly fit into the original design of the antique gate.

It is very important to foresee the supporting poles before installing the automation. As in the previous examples, it is desirable to make them from concrete, and even better from brick.

There are three options for installing automatic gates, depending on the direction of opening of the gate: outward, inward and inward with the completion of the supporting pillars. In each of them, the installation of automation is carried out in a certain sequence. In our case, installation outside may be required, or the latter option (for the future), since we initially considered the option for future automation.

The location of the system control unit can be different (left or right), it is important to choose the right wire cross-sections. The figure below shows an approximate layout of the elements of the system and the cross section of the wire.

The drive for installation has a feature; for it, it is specially necessary to provide for the distance from the supporting column. If this is not provided for and the gate needs to be made inward, as in our case, then you just need to carefully hollow out and arrange places for them.

The price of linear actuators ranges from 23 to 36,000 rubles. For example, the DoorHan Swing-5000 electric drive (up to 5 meters) costs around 25 thousand.

Swing gate assembly and installation technology

Gates should be made in stationary conditions on the ground and leveled surface (carriage). The dimensions of your gate must exactly match the design drawings. That is, all blanks must be sawn off with a grinder with a tolerance of 1 mm. Then, comparing right angles, the details of the future perimeter of the gate leaves are welded, and then the crossbars and diagonals.

The markings for the hinges are made at a distance of at least 30 - 40 cm from the edge of the frame and then welded to it. Hinges can be bought at the store or ordered from a turning shop. After that, a hinged pole is brought in and the same actions are performed with welding, using the sticking method.

If everything is exactly in size, the loop is completely scalded. You can not use welding, but then you have to screw each canopy through thick steel onto self-tapping screws. Having painted the metal, you can fasten the profiled sheet with screws with a press washer.

The installation of swing gates begins with the marking of the supporting (concrete or brick) pillars, along the centers of the main axis of the gate. At the base of the pillars, an iron pipe with a diameter of 100 mm must be mounted on the concrete. It must be dug to a depth of 130 -150 cm. This is best done using an auger (drill) of the appropriate diameter, leaving room for pouring concrete by about 10 cm around the circumference.

Exposing the base of a brick pillar, use the level and check the vertical in both planes. Between the collars, a gap of 20 mm is required, which from the outside can be covered with a metal slat, 50 mm wide. So tolerance is necessary, because on hot days, when heated, the metal expands, and your gate can simply jam. Homemade swing gates will look no worse than factory counterparts if you approach the process of assembling them wisely.

There are many design options for the gate, but it is simply impossible to describe them all in a row. Each case is individual and therefore the manufacture of swing gates can be called a creative process, where each owner can implement their own developments or take existing ones.

When erecting fences around your land plot or when building a garage, the question will definitely arise how to make a gate with your own hands. Before purchasing materials and getting down to work, it is necessary to decide which of the existing types of gates is best suited for installation in a particular case. Don't miscalculate in in all the nuances in advance, and choosing not the best design, you can doom yourself to a completely unnecessary laborious process of clearing the territory for their installation.

That is why you need to start by studying the information and features of their design.

Today, there are three main types of gates - these are retractable, swing and up-and-over. All of them seriously differ from each other constructively, so it is worth considering each type separately.

swing gate

The simplest scheme in execution - swing gates

Swing gates with a gate built into them or installed next to them are a traditional scheme that is most often used in private homes. It is based on pillars, two of which are set to the width of the gate, and the third, if necessary, determines the width of the gate if it is arranged next to the gate.

Gate leaves and wickets in this design are mounted on hinges welded to the supporting posts. They can be attached to outside supports or internal. It will depend on this and on the hinge system in which direction the gate leaves will open - inward or outward.

Swing gate leaves are most often metal frames welded from a corner or a profile pipe, which can then be sheathed different materials- thin metal sheets, corrugated board or wood.

The hinged version of the gate can also be made entirely of wood. In this case, boards are fixed to a reinforced frame made of timber, located on the inside of the wings.

In the manufacture of sashes, it is important to remember that they should not be too heavy, so as not to put a large load on the supporting posts and hinges. The nodes and details of the suspension themselves in size and strength must correspond to the weight of the valves.

A closing device is installed on the gate leaf - it can be a deadbolt or hinges for a lock, and sometimes a powerful latch. When closing the gate, the leaves in the lower part, in the middle of the entrance width, abut against the installed limiter, and when they are wide open, they can be fixed with spring clips.

The disadvantages of this design include the possible tilt of the supporting pillars and sagging of the wings, but this can only happen if the installation technology is violated or the weight from the leaves is incorrectly calculated. Therefore, it is necessary to properly deepen the foundation of the supports, not to use too heavy material for the canvases and to install the hinges corresponding to them in size.

The advantage of swing gates can be called the relative compactness of their placement. The design does not require clearing additional space along the fence, as it will be necessary to do for other types.

Swing gate installation

If swing gates are of moderate weight, for example, if they are made of corrugated board, then metal poles made of pipes with a diameter of 80 ÷ 100 mm or a profiled pipe with the same size of its sides are well suited for them. square section. Such supports will quite cope with their task. However, more massive pillars will do if they are easier to find.

Pillars-supports for gates are installed in two ways - by hammering and concreting.

Pillars are usually hammered to a depth of 1.2–1.3 m. This method has many advantages, the main of which are sufficient reliability and speed of work.

Installation is as follows:

- a hole of the required diameter is drilled, approximately half the planned depth of the pillars.

- now the pillars must be fixed to or to stationary buildings located in the yard;

- after that, loops are welded to the posts, to the places previously marked by level;

- the assembled sashes are hung on the welded hinges, the correctness of their convergence in the center is checked.

Concreting of pillars for installing gates gives increased rigidity and stability of the structure. Such supports will be required for wide or heavy sashes.

This method of installation is carried out without reinforcement or with the use of a reinforcing cup. Work is carried out in stages:

- first, a hole is drilled with a diameter of not less than 200-250 mm and a depth of 1.5-1.9 m. The exact size of the hole will depend on the section of the post.

- layers of sand and gravel are poured into the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted. Each of the layers should be about 100 mm;

- then a pole is installed in the pit, on a sand and gravel cushion;

- concrete is poured around it, and until the solution has hardened, the column is set strictly vertically, fixed in this position with the help of props.

If a reinforcing structure is used to fix the post, then the installation is carried out in the same way as without reinforcement, until the pillow is tamped for the installation of the post.

On the pillow, in the drilled hole, the so-called reinforcing glass is first laid, and a pole is inserted into it. Then concrete is poured into the hole. In this case, supports for the pole may not even be needed, since the reinforcing structure will hold it.

After the concrete has completely hardened and gained due strength, massive loops are marked and welded on the pillars. We must not forget about leaving gaps that will allow the doors to open and close freely, even with a possible slight tilt of the pillars due to the movement of the ground during snowmelt or long rains.

To avoid such deformations of the structure, it is possible to additionally fasten the pillars together with a beam welded to the lower parts of the pillars (it can be sunk into the ground). The frame will be even more rigid if equip it with an upper jumper, but in this case it will restrict the passage for trucks or a minibus.

Video: device and installation procedure for swing gates

Swing gate prices

swing gate

sliding gate

Sliding gates are subdivided into several subspecies, and from them you can choose the one suitable for certain conditions. But almost each of them will require free space along. Therefore, you may have to work harder to make room for the free movement of the movable sash when it is opened.

Sliding gates are cantilevered, suspended and retractable, which run along a rail or other metal profile (channel, I-beam, etc.).

Video: types of sliding gates

1. The hanging version is not very popular for installation in the private sector, since the entrance height is limited by the profile installed on top, on which the door leaf is suspended and moves along it.

2. Sliding gates that run along a rail installed in the opening and along the wall are also not a very popular option, especially in snowy and cold regions. The gate will move freely along the rail if it is cleared of ice and various debris, but in winter time, in case of snow drifts or icing, the sash will not be able to open and close without preliminary clearing. This version of the gate is rather good for the southern regions, where snow does not lie for a long time and there are no severe frosts.

This is the only, but very important design flaw. Otherwise, it is very convenient in that it does not require a vast territory for opening and closing.

On the rack from the side into which the sash will open, rollers and brackets holding the canvas are installed in the upper part.

Rollers are also installed at the bottom of the mobile gate leaf, along which it moves along a rail or profile mounted on the surface of the earth.

3. Console - the most convenient option of all types of sliding gates, especially since they have several different designs, from which you can choose the best one.

Such gates are rigidly fixed on the beam, which, moving in the cantilever assembly, moves the leaf leaf along with it.

Cantilever gates are more complex in design, but work best in snowy winters, since their leaf never touches the ground. Another positive quality of this species can be considered that it does not have a height limiter, i.e. on the site can call, both passenger and freight car. In the design of cantilever gates, powerful pillars-supports are installed not on two sides, but only on one side - it is in this direction that the sash will move when the passage is opened.

The cantilever beam can be located in three different positions - top, middle and bottom.

by the most widespread an option is the location of the movable beam in the middle of the door leaf. Due to its location, it enhances the rigidity of the structure. The console mechanism with guide rollers is located at a sufficient height so that it is not covered with snow, which means that the gate will be in working condition at any time of the year.

Cantilever gates in which the movable beam is installed at the bottom of the leaf are more vulnerable to winter period and will require constant care in the form of cleaning from snow drifts and icing. Otherwise, this is also a convenient option, since the canvas does not come into contact with the ground, and it does not need to install a guide rail for it.

In the third case, the beam passes along the upper part of the canvas and will always be safe from snow blockages, water, and debris. But this version of the cantilever gate requires a particularly rigid reinforcement of the frame and leaf, otherwise it may deform in the lower part.

Cantilever gates are quite affordable for manufacturing on their own, but only if the owner has certain skills in such work. understands assembly drawings, has basic knowledge in physics and mechanics. With maximum effort, you can make such a gate that will be impossible to distinguish from factory products.

Any cantilever gate can be opened if equipped with an electric drive and an electronic remote control system. This will allow the owner, without leaving the car, using the key fob to open the passage.

Installation of sliding cantilever gates

Installing sliding or sliding gates is a much more complex undertaking than installing a swing version.

On the sides of the passage, when arranging this type of gate, as a rule, brick pillars are installed on which rollers, supporting brackets and catchers will be mounted.

The main load always falls on the channel, which is installed on on a securely arranged foundation on the side of the gate where the leaf will be attached (if the console is located at the bottom) or on metal supports if the console is located in the center of the dense gate or at the top.

The foundation for the installation of the channel can be solid or consist of 2-3 pillars. The second option is more economical. A pit is dug for the foundation - it can consist of one pit or two or three for a columnar type. The depth should be from 1.2 to 1.5 m, width - 40 ÷ 50 cm, and length - at least 1.5 m.
Further, two pillows of sand and gravel are arranged in the pit, each 10 cm thick.
Then, a formwork is installed in the pit and a waterproofing material is laid in it - roofing material or a dense plastic film.
A reinforcing structure is fixed in the formwork, and then a ready-made concrete solution is poured with a strength grade of at least M-300
A channel with fittings welded to its shelves is installed over the filled surface. The channel is pressed into the concrete with the shelves down until they are completely immersed. After the final hardening of the concrete, a reliable metal platform should be obtained. The gate can be installed no earlier than a month after pouring the foundation.
The supporting frame is being made. For it, you need a metal corner or a square pipe with a cross section of 60 × 40 mm.
Additional cross members are welded to the frame of the carcass, giving the required rigidity to the structure. At the location of the console (in this case, from below), a guide cantilever beam must be welded to the frame, with the help of which the gate will move along the rollers.
Welded seams of the structure must be carefully cleaned of slag. The entire supporting frame must be primed and covered with paint for metal, which will keep it from corrosion.
It is fixed, sheet metal or boards, depending on the chosen design of the door leaf.
When the structure is ready, and the foundation with the installed cantilever channel has fully gained strength, you can proceed to the installation of the components and parts necessary to move the gate.

Cantilever blocks equipped with rollers are installed on the finished foundation with a channel.
Then the gates are rolled up on them, aligned strictly according to the level, and after that the blocks are welded to the channel.
Then, the top and end rollers are installed and fixed.
The lower and upper catchers are fixed to the opposite support post. They must be accurately calculated according to the location of the rolling rollers installed on the door leaf.
Further, if planned, an electric drive is installed, but the gate may well open manually.

Video instruction for installation of cantilever sliding gates

As mentioned above, the cantilever beam can be installed not only from below, but also in the middle or at the top of the door leaf.

In the manufacture and assembly of this type of gate, accurate calculation of all parameters and careful observance of dimensions are especially important, since any error can cause deformation of the structure.

sliding gate prices

Sliding gates

Overhead gate

This type of gate is well suited for equipping a garage with them. They are not suitable for driving into the yard, as they will limit the height. Such gates should be easy to close and open by lifting and sliding the leaf to a horizontal position up, under the garage ceiling.

Up-and-over doors are the perfect solution for your garage.

During opening or closing, the lower part of the sash protrudes slightly forward, outside the garage, That's why By installing a similar type of gate, you need to calculate how close you can fit the car so that it does not interfere with the opening process.

The canvas is made of a metal frame, which is sheathed, most often, with metal sheets, wood or composite impact-resistant materials. The positive qualities of this type of gate are reliability and compactness in the open position, in contrast to options with two swing leaves.

To make this design yourself, you must have drawings with all the necessary parameters.

To install the gate, you will need to make not only a frame for closing the passage, but also another one on which the gate will be mounted. Sometimes it is framed by the entrance to the garage, but more often additional guides are added, along which, when the gate is opened, rollers mounted on the canvas will roll. They also perform the function of a device that supports the canvas from above in an open position.

In this case, inside the garage, the frame will be L-shaped on both sides of the entrance. Its dimensions must provide the necessary space for the passage of the door leaf between the ceiling and additional guides.
On the canvas on both sides, top and bottom, rollers are installed that will walk along the guides when moving the gate.
On both sides, to the frame installed in the opening, two levers are mounted that will lift the canvas when opened. Shock absorbers are required - they will soften the blow when closing. The levers are connected to springs that are adjusted to the desired force - they should not be overtightened or loose, but at the same time, the sash should tightly close the entrance opening.

The supporting stationary frame must be securely fastened to the opening with anchors, as it will be subjected to significant stress all the time.
Further, when the entire structure is mounted, it is possible to equip the gate with fittings and fix additional elements.

If you plan to install an electric drive, then this process is carried out last, and it is better to entrust this work to specialists. An electric opening system is a rather expensive pleasure, so it’s better not to risk it if you don’t have the skill in installing and debugging such equipment.

Video: an example of hand-made up-and-over doors

Prices for up-and-over gates