What are meetings without ties? How men's fashion is changing

The business dress code for men is becoming less conservative, stylists and fashion designers note. Natalya Zhdanova found out how it is now customary to dress for official events and business negotiations.

The crisis of classic men's fashion did not emerge yesterday, but recently it has become especially clear. Trend-setting businessmen and politicians are increasingly abandoning conservative options. Nowadays it’s common practice to come to an official event, for example, wearing a green tie with a print of blue mopeds, as Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev recently did.

On the one hand, there are fewer and fewer conventions in life, and this affects fashion. On the other hand, the business environment and the speed of work are changing, a new generation of job seekers is coming, for whom freedom of expression is important, including in clothing.

In general, formal suits remain mandatory for officials; in the business environment, everything is becoming more democratic, noted entrepreneurs interviewed by Kommersant FM.

Chairman of the Board of Directors of NDV-Group Alexander Khrustalev:“Officials don’t allow themselves such freedom yet; they mostly wear a tie. Businessmen who adhere to the rules of etiquette so as not to stand out also wear a suit, a light shirt, but no tie. If this is the first day and the official opening of the event, then this is a must-have costume. On the second or third day, we calmly put on jeans and a shirt.”

Businessman, Vice-President of the Russian Union of Industrialists and Entrepreneurs David Yakobashvili:“In an institute environment,” I participate in the boards of directors of universities, “they prefer casual, a jacket and a shirt or jacket, and all without a tie. At political meetings, of course, a dress code is required—suit and tie.”

Restaurateur Arkady Novikov:“If you look at what I wear, it’s mostly jeans, a T-shirt, a sweater. Sometimes I wear some kind of light jacket. This is the main thing. If there are business meetings, it’s black tie or just a suit.”

The trend towards relaxing the dress code is clearly evident at large business events. For example, many participants at the investment forum in Sochi did not wear ties.

This attribute may be abandoned altogether in the near future, believes Chief Editor GQ magazine Igor Garanin: “There come moments in the history of fashion when everyone is waiting for a signal for an official to truly high level this signal was given. So, at one time, at the inauguration of President Kennedy, a story happened when he appeared in public for the first time, at an event that took place in the open air, without a hat. This served as a signal for all men to give up hats. It seems to me that they are now waiting for the same signal in relation to the tie.”

At the same time, sales of suits are declining worldwide. According to Euromonitor International, the year-over-year decline was 2%. Against this background, journalists from The Wall Street Journal even compared men's suits with endangered black rhinoceroses.

However, things are unlikely to reach complete extinction, says Sergei Vikulin, director of the Raschini fashion house. In any case, your wardrobe should have a good, expensive suit, and if you choose it correctly, you can also look stylish, the expert said: “Of course, there are trends in classic fashion, first of all, they are reflected in the cut of the suit model. Jackets are becoming a little shorter, this makes the image more fit and youthful. Of course, this is reflected in the width of the trousers.”

In addition, those suits that can be “broken up” and then worn separately with soft flannel trousers, and trousers with a cardigan and tennis shoes, are in great demand now. There is now a fashion for reasonable consumption all over the world, and it has reached the men's wardrobe. Main principle This concept has nothing superfluous. A tie, just like a suit in the classical presentation, no longer fits very well into it.

In many companies, dress codes are becoming less strict. For example, PricewaterhouseCoopers and J.P. Morgan allowed employees not to wear suits unless they were scheduled to meet with clients. Russian companies are now following the same path.

On June 27, in the cozy hall of the Moscow Art Center “MonaClub” there was a presentation of a new communication format for Russia - “Business Thursday: a meeting without ties.” The organizer was the Non-Profit Partnership “Union Business Development”. Effective information support was provided by the ASPmedia24 News Agency and the editors of the Russian business magazine POINT OF OPORY. This allowed the entrepreneurs to hold their first meeting confidently, successfully, and effectively.

… on the tables for the meeting guests there was aromatic coffee from the best brands (Luigi Lavazza “Qualita ORO” company), GreenField black and green tea, medical dining room mineral water "Rychal-Su" (OJSC "Plant mineral waters“Rychal-Su”, Dagestan), candies from leading Russian manufacturers OJSC “Red October” (“Alenka”, “Bear Clubfoot”, "Truffle"), OJSC "Confectionery Babaevsky Concern (“Babaevsky Sweets”), incredibly tasty cookies and dryers (Yashkino company and LLC "Voploschenie").

According to the organizers, this format of communication allows you to establish business communication, in a calm, meet in an informal setting over a cup of tea and discuss important business issues. A significant addition to the business format of the “no tie” meeting are training events on management, sales, leadership development, the art of public speaking, design and other important areas of business. The most valuable “highlight” for business meetings will be performances by creative teams, musicians, artists, poets, art studios, as well as various thematic master classes.

Despite the hot temperature records that Moscow “broke” on the day of the meeting, it was comfortable in the hall and at ease, The first meeting brought together managers and directors of such business areas as consulting, events, legal services, media, IT companies, and development.

It is clear that the businessmen remained true to their calling and, according to preliminary data, concluded deals worth at least half a million rubles. Now they have started working on contracts for recruiting personnel, purchasing an existing business, installing computer systems, organizing events, supporting aspiring entrepreneurs.

The participants of “Business Thursday” proposed holding a series of practical training events of the “Leader’s Club” at “MonaClub”, aimed at increasing the efficiency of the management level of enterprises; they decided to organize “business breakfasts”, special sales courses for managers of all levels, classes on web design and graphics.

The first “meeting without a tie” ended with an unusual and impressive improvised performance by Alexei Khramov - he presented a one-man performance based on the poems of the poet Joseph Brodsky. The aspiring actor was immediately offered his own television project. And Alena Mak read several of her own poems and sang songs. Surprisingly It turned out to be a coincidence that on the day of the memorable meeting, her first book, “The Heart of the Stem,” was published at the printing house, which was published with the assistance of the NP “Union Business Development.”

NP "Union Business Development" expressed deep gratitude to the General Director Art center "MonaClub" Alla Batova for the magnificent modern venue for “Business Thursdays” and assistance in organizing the event.

Here's who was on business Thursday at MonaClub:

Belyashin Alexander, editor-in-chief of the portal “ASPmedia24” ();
Andrey Loktionov, General Director Mosbusinessbroker LLC ();
Alexander Karasev, Advisor to the Administration of the NP "Union Business Development", Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor, Head of the "Leaders' Club ();
Kopatchinskaya Snezhana, founder, business manager of the NP "Union Business Development", director of the company "My Cosmetics" (.);
Mak Alena, poetess (.);
Nikolay Neporada, organizational development consultant of the ORC Project Group ();
Nikolaenko Nadezhda, director, host of holidays (.);
Petrushova Anna, chief editor of the website of the NP "Union Business Development", producer of the portal "ASPmedia24" ();
Elena Terleeva, director LLC "PrazdnikMSK" ( .);
Semenov Pavel, member of the NP "Union Business Development", lawyer of the Moscow central branch of the Moscow Regional Bar Association (P .);
Skrylnikova Ekaterina, web designer ();
Fomina Svetlana, designer ();
Chupakhina Oksana, head of exhibition projects (.);
Chernyshev Vladimir, founder, Chairman of the Board of the NP "Union Business Development", editor-in-chief of the Russian business magazine POINT OF OPOR (

Meeting without ties

Publ. A meeting of politicians or businessmen in an informal setting, without observing most of the required protocol norms. /i> Tracing paper from English. no tie session. MNNS, 32.

Big dictionary Russian sayings. - M: Olma Media Group. V. M. Mokienko, T. G. Nikitina. 2007 .

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The worst thing for a manager is to lose contact with people: desynchronization begins, people lose a sense of purpose, so there should always be contact with your team, says Vladimir Ovelyan, General Director of the company. One of the most simple ways, experts suggest, - politics open doors. “I don’t have my own office in the office: I can work in the library, in open-space - anywhere. I openly discuss any issues with my employees, try to communicate with everyone,” says Vladimir Ovelyan.

There are many ways to be closer to people, and not all managers are ready to remove the door from their office, demonstrating openness to dialogue. Natalya Storozheva, General Director of the Perspective Business and Career Development Center, gives the following example from practice: “The owner of an FMCG company organizes a reception day for employees once a week. Everyone, regardless of position, can make an appointment with the boss and discuss "Any questions. Sometimes they are personal, sometimes professional, and sometimes employees come to get a sports forecast and place bets."

Not everyone is ready to organize such reception days and communicate in person, so they hire a “language” - an intermediary who conducts the dialogue on their behalf.

“We have an employee with the title “Director of Common Sense” in his work book. This is a person who is constantly in touch with me. If you really want, you can ask him, and he will ask me. And vice versa, for example, if I want someone “to ask something, I usually ask him, and he already conveys my thoughts to the employee,” says Evgeniy Potapov, CEO of ITSumma. However, business coaches advise you to step over yourself and go communicate with people in person, even if this communication is fleeting.

Question - just a minute

“One of my techniques is a one-minute meeting, when, walking down the corridor and meeting certain employees, I ask them questions: “How are you feeling? Where are you in a hurry?", "What are you working on now?", "Are there any difficulties?", "How are you doing with the project, are you coping? Do you need my help?" says Sergey Deryabin, General Director of Humanitarian Management Technologies. “This way, I get live feedback about everything that interests me, first-hand. And these are not formal reports from my direct subordinates or heads of departments.” . Experts agree that demonstrating humanity and approachability turns an unattainable armchair boss into an insider, but it's unlikely that you can get real feedback in a minute.

“The main question I ask an employee: how can I help you complete a task?” Vladimir Ovelyan shares his secret. “I sincerely ask this question when I see that a person is at a dead end and is looking for a solution. As a rule, he doesn’t want to, so that I help him, he begins to think about how to solve the problem. And then he finds a solution." Direct live contact with subordinates is very important because it allows the manager to feel the emotional mood of the team and, if necessary, correct it using soft informal methods, psychologists explain.

Weather report from the boss

In GC "", where there are more than a thousand people on staff, they came up with their own way of non-standard communication between managers and subordinates. “For more than a year now, we have been running the “Barometer” section on our internal website. In the format of direct speech, the Chairman of the Board of Directors and the General Director once a week express their thoughts about what and to what extent helps or hinders the company’s movement towards a common goal. Assessment of the current situations are displayed in weather style: sun, cloud, thundercloud,” says Irina Nikolaeva, development director of the Group of Companies. In addition, the company has a format called “breakfast with the owner” for interaction between heads of production departments and the chairman of the board of directors.

Sergey Lvov, head of the development department of the Allsan company, considers the most effective way to communicate with subordinates to be communication with the team during non-working hours. “Sometimes the whole team goes to the bathhouse or goes to the cinema on weekends. The main rule during joint outings is not a word about work,” he says. “This helps me understand who I’m working with and catch the atmosphere in the team. This is important. , because it’s easier to manage a team this way.”

Beer and English

“Joint foreign language classes, common hobbies of employees and visiting cultural events - all this helps to overcome the barrier of subordination, strengthen interpersonal relationships in the team and ultimately helps solve work problems faster and easier,” explains Alexey Bukhanov.

Another point of contact is children. “I invite my employees to go on weekend trips with their children to the theater, circus or park,” says Oleg Paroshin, CEO of Amgen in Russia and the CIS. “It’s a great opportunity to communicate with them in the most relaxed atmosphere, to understand how and what they live people in the company, what they do outside of work, what plans they make.”

And the company "" has its own "adult" tradition - once a month all employees of the central office get together to hold so-called Beer Fridays. Sometimes they are replaced by karaoke. In an informal setting, it is easier to discuss troubling issues, look at the situation from a different angle, and even find more effective solution, the company explains.

Another effective method interactions - challenges that the boss poses to his team. “There are examples when a manager completely shaved his head or dyed his hair a different color if his division won an internal competition or exceeded sales plans,” says Alla Martynova, director of the Business Academy of the MIRBIS Institute. “It is clear that this will not work on a regular basis.” , but this really brings us closer together and shows the manager from a different perspective in the eyes of the team, after which the likelihood that people will contact him and share information important for personnel management more often becomes much higher.”

Whatever the boss enjoys

But no matter what the boss does, whether he cuts his hair or goes to the movies, the effectiveness of such communication is important. Alexander Krol, a representative of the Elagin company, believes that the effect of communication can be assessed by the dynamics of emergency situations and conflicts. " More information about the lives of employees - more knowledge and opportunities to anticipate crisis situations,” he believes.

“I require department heads to understand for what period we can count on this or that person,” agrees Sergei Parkhomenko, managing partner of the Ideas & Solutions PR agency. “And any “unexpected trouble” is a reason to evaluate whether the contact was effective direct supervisor with a subordinate or not." As a result of the dialogue - in the bathhouse, at breakfast, in the theater, circus or at football - the boss and subordinates should have an understanding of mutual expectations and the absence of surprises in the form of sudden dismissals on the initiative of either party.

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