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How to renew yucca at home. Yucca palm care at home, propagation and pruning, replanting of yucca, photo species

Forming yucca is a procedure that every second gardener has to deal with. If a purchased plant is in most cases cultivated by experienced specialists, then one grown from a cutting must be cultivated independently.

What aspects need to be paid attention to so that the process is successful for the grower and with the least loss for the yucca?

Curvature of the trunk is a reason to shorten the plant and increase its decorative effect

Reasons for pruning

Yucca is a false palm. In most cases, if the crown is made up of a single rosette of sword-shaped leaves formed by the top of the trunk, the plant does not look very presentable. Indeed, a thin, elongated (up to 2.5 m) stem with a patch of leaves near the ceiling is a depressing sight.

The florist begins to look for ways to increase the diameter of the crown and its density. The decorative and aesthetic appearance of a false palm tree can only be achieved by pruning. This effective measure forces the yucca to branch, turning the palm tree into an exotic bush.

Sometimes in practice a different situation arises - the plant unexpectedly produces a lateral sprout. Moreover, for some reason the bud wakes up at the base of the trunk. A big difference at the height between the crowns it also doesn’t look very attractive. There is only one way out - partially cut off the stem.

Trim time

It is best to deal with the yucca crown in the last month of winter after the end of the dormant period. From November to February, the plant was in a cool room (about 10 degrees Celsius), gained strength and was ready to increase its vegetative mass. If the yucca has not had a full rest in winter, the adaptation period and the release of shoots may be delayed.

On a note! Flower growers have noticed that the false palm tree should not be disturbed in April. The plant often dies due to problems with the healing of cuts.

Algorithm of actions

Preparation

In order for trunk pruning and its healing to end successfully, you must:

  1. prepare tools: sharp hacksaw, pruning shears;
  2. buy a product for processing cuts: garden pitch, paraffin;
  3. stock up on anti-stress medications for plants;
  4. find container, soil and drainage for rooting the top.

Important! The yucca is watered 2-3 days before the procedure so that the palm tree has time to reserve water for 2-3 weeks in advance. After pruning, watering is not carried out.

How to properly prune an adult yucca

Choosing the cutting height is a serious matter. The stump remaining in the flower pot will not grow or thicken any more. In other words, if the trunk of a palm tree has reached a diameter of 3 cm, then it will remain so thin forever after pruning. The question arises: is it necessary to rush things and form the yucca right now? Maybe it’s better to postpone the procedure until the indicator reaches the number “5”?

It is important not to forget that pruning is necessary for further branching of the palm tree. 2-3 buds usually wake up closer to the top of the trunk, forming young rosettes of leaves. Further branches will grow and thicken. The central stump should be strong enough to support 2-3 dense crowns.

Step-by-step instructions on how to properly trim an ornamental palm tree at home:

  1. the height of the stump is left from 20 to ½ m;
  2. the preferred trunk diameter is 5 or more centimeters;
  3. Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut off the woody top, holding the crown with your free hand;
  4. the cut is treated with activated carbon, cinnamon, and any garden putty;
  5. Yucca is placed in a warm place without direct sunlight.

On a note! When shortening the trunk, do not allow it to break off. The plant perceives this damage painfully.

A visual example of pruning:

Why use garden putty?

Novice gardeners are interested in whether it is possible not to treat the cut site with garden pitch or paraffin if yucca is grown as indoor plant? The answer is unequivocal - it’s impossible.

Wounds should be covered immediately after the procedure for two reasons:

  • to reduce the loss of moisture from the trunk and prevent weakening of the plant;
  • for reliable sealing of cuts from the penetration of fungal spores or bacteria.

Yucca's immunity is weakened. Any disease can lead to the death of a false palm tree.

There is an opinion that putty, like a plastic film, limits the access of air to the plant tissue and can provoke the spread of infection. This statement is erroneous and unfounded, as confirmed by experts and experienced gardeners.

Popular putties for cutting cuts:

  • melted wax;
  • softened garden pitch;
  • slurry;
  • garden putties “Blagosad”, “RanNet”;
  • bio-balms for plants.

Any of the above remedies will reduce the risk of indoor yucca disease due to stress.

How to stimulate the appearance of rosettes

Giving a rich shape to trimmed yucca is a troublesome task. For some reason, nurseries easily achieve the ideal result - awakening 2-5 symmetrical buds and turning them into healthy rosettes.

At home, the opposite result is often obtained. About 3 buds swell and turn green, but soon 2 die and dry out, leaving the grower with only one (the strongest) rosette. As a result, the tree-like trunk of the palm tree is crowned with a lush crown, located not in the center, but on the side of the plant.

Is it possible to somehow prevent the one-sidedness of yucca? There are chances to improve the situation. Experienced gardeners recommend spraying the top of the palm trunk with epin after pruning according to the instructions or lubricate it once scales, under which the kidneys sleep, with cytokinin paste. Both drugs stimulate the formation of shoots.

Important! Cytokinin paste is used only for branching of an adult plant. Rooting young (not lignified) yucca using the drug is unacceptable. The false palm will die.

Caring for buds and shoots

Green layering will appear on the pruned plant no earlier than after 3 weeks. 2 months is also within the normal range.

At this time, it is important to determine the location of the shoots and their number. On a trunk with a diameter of up to 5-6 cm, it is advisable to leave only 2 rosettes. If the yucca stem is wider, the number is increased to 4-5.

  • moderate watering – once every 3-4 weeks;
  • ensuring good lighting;
  • mineral or organic fertilizing during the period of active growth - once a month.

Important! After pruning, the yucca is not fertilized or watered. Pause – 2-4 weeks.

Finally, if the false palm has several stems that need to be shortened, cut them off one at a time. The yucca may not recover from removing all the tops at once.

Another video about an unusual method of pruning and rooting yucca:

This wonderful flower can often be found indoors and on the streets of southern cities. Sometimes flower growers have questions about propagating Yucca at home. The reasons that motivate you to do this are very different:

  • Much overgrown and a flower that has lost its shape
  • Root rot, which destroyed root system plants
  • Just desire to share this beautiful plant

There are many in various ways, suitable for Yucca to reproduce at home, so we’ll talk about the basic methods. All methods give positive results, the main thing here is to choose one that will suit a particular flower lover.

Seeds

Seeds can be purchased at shopping centers that sell ordinary flower seeds. Each such package, depending on the manufacturer, contains from 3 to 5 large seeds that are black in color and glossy in appearance.

To speed up seed germination needs to be stratified, for those who don’t know what this is – damage to the seed coat. After which they are placed for cultivation in nutritious and loose soil. There is no need to deepen them too much, even 5 mm is enough.

The temperature in the room where Yucca will be grown from seeds should be at least 25 degrees Celsius. Therefore, many recommend sowing seeds when stable heat sets in. So that the bowl with seeds does not dry out from high temperature, it is placed in a transparent plastic bag or covered with glass.

To prevent high humidity and temperatures from causing rotting, the bowl is ventilated daily, removing condensation from the glass as this is excess moisture.

When two true leaf plates emerge from the ground, the Yucca seedlings must be planted in different bowls, the size of which must strictly correspond to the size of the seedling’s root system.

It is important to know, in order to grow Yucca in this way you need to have a lot of patience, since an adult tree will only appear in a few years.

How to propagate yucca from tops

This the most common method of reproduction plants. Any rosette of leaves at the top or a randomly broken branch will do for this method. If the broken branch is too long, then part of the trunk is removed, leaving only a small piece of the trunk “heel”. This cutting is dried for a couple of hours and the lower leaf plates are removed.


After which the cuttings are planted in nutrient soil and covered with a glass jar, creating greenhouse conditions for the cuttings. You need to make sure that the soil is always slightly moist and does not dry out. But you shouldn’t fill it with water, as this will allow gray rot to appear on the cuttings.

The soil under a jar or bag dries out very slowly, so you need to be careful with watering.

Or the cuttings are placed in water to grow the root system. To prevent the cutting from rotting in water, add wood ash or 3 tablets of activated carbon.

This method is good for propagation when the flower has lost its root system for one reason or another.

Cuttings at home

Yucca cuttings are carried out either late winter or early spring when the plant wakes up and begins to grow. Typically, cuttings are carried out on an adult plant when its crown is formed, removing excess shoots-cuttings. Since after pruning the lower part will stop growing, and the formed tree is unlikely to grow.


Palm trees are pruned with pruning shears, after which the cuttings are dried for an hour and planted in mini-greenhouses with loose nutritious soil. After about a month and a half, young roots will appear, and then the cutting can be freed from greenhouse conditions, gradually accustoming it to room conditions.

The formation and growth of roots will be clearly visible if the cutting is planted in a transparent pot.

Lateral processes

To form layering, make an incision on the bark below the lower leaf plates by about 40 cm and remove the bark along the entire circumference, 1.5 cm wide. In the area where the bark is damaged, apply a layer of wet moss, and wrap the moss in polyethylene to prevent moisture evaporation . After a certain time, dormant roots wake up in this place, and as they grow, they form a cutting.

When the roots have grown so much that you can be sure that the layer will grow on its own, it is cut off with a sharp knife or pruning shears. The cut is treated with crushed activated carbon and planted in a substrate suitable for Yucca.


By shoots

This method provides the presence of root shoots or stems. Separating excess shoots that thicken the mother plant is a completely necessary thing. After all, for the beautiful formation of a tree or bush, five sprouts of the same age are enough.

Therefore, excess sprouts are removed and all cuts are sprinkled with charcoal to prevent rotting. Then the sprouts are planted in coarse sand and placed in a mini-greenhouse to root them. Watering should be done so that the sand does not dry out. The greenhouse is ventilated and condensation is removed daily.

With proper care, the first roots will appear only after a month and a half. After which the sprout is transplanted as an independent plant into a separate container with nutritious soil.


Stem cuttings

This method of reproduction is suitable only for experienced gardeners. After the tops are cut off, stems without leaf plates remain on Yucca. The trunk itself must be at least 25 cm long and all its cuts must be treated with garden pitch or, if it is not available, then with crushed activated carbon.

After this treatment, a second treatment is done with any stimulator of root mass formation. After all these procedures, the trunk must be transplanted into nutrient soil.

It is important to plant it as it was before cutting off the crown, that is, in the place where it grew upward. Therefore, one end should be marked so as not to confuse the ends and to place it in the right direction.

Usually, with this method of propagation, two buds, less often than three, appear at the top. To stimulate the appearance of these buds, you can spray the plant with the following preparations:

  1. Zircon
  2. Cytokinin paste

After the growing buds appear, you need to start feeding the plant with nitrogen fertilizers. This is done so that the plant has enough strength to grow a full head of hair or several tops. In this case, the container with such a plant should be in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. And if necessary, it must be turned towards the light so that the top of the Yucca grows evenly.

Air layering

This method is used when will Yucca be rehabilitated after her illness?. For propagation, only hard areas without rot are selected and the lower cut is cleared of the bark, removing 5 mm of it. stripe.

Be sure to have sphagnum moss on hand to cover the lower cuts.

The moss will need to be moistened periodically to create an appropriate microclimate around the cutting. After about a month, the first small roots will appear, which should thus be grown to a length of 5 cm.

After growing the roots in this way, the Yucca is planted in a new soil suitable for it and watering is carefully monitored so that rotting does not start again.

Methods of transplanting and transplanting Yucca

In order for Yucca to grow well, it needs replanting; young plants are replanted annually; in old plants, only the top layer of soil can be renewed.


Land preparation

The soil can be purchased ready-made at garden centers or you can make it yourself. The main thing is that he is nutritious and quite fluffy so that air flows to the root system. You can make this mixture, taking everything in equal parts:

  1. Chernozem
  2. Sod land
  3. Sand

Details about proper transplantation

1. Container for Yucca Any container will do, as long as it matches the size of the plant’s root system. It should have drainage holes to drain water.
2. Drainage Drainage is necessary to avoid root rot. Typically, expanded clay is used for this purpose, which is sold in flower shops in the department along with the soil. It is poured in a layer of 2 cm.
3. Planting a plant After drainage, a handful of soil is poured onto which the Yucca is installed. The roots should be evenly spread in different directions. After that, soil is poured evenly on all sides and pressed with hands around the circumference of the pot to remove air voids.
4. Watering It is better to water after a day; this time will allow the wounds on the injured roots to heal. This will reduce the risk of root rot.

What is the difference between planting in a pot and in open ground?

Actually, the only difference is that all transplantation procedures are done only in spring before the heat sets in or at the beginning of autumn so that by the cold weather the plant takes root and undergoes adaptation in a new place.

Indoors, replanting and transshipment of flowers can be done at almost any time. It can be said that even in winter time if a flower needs help and needs an urgent transplant, then it has a chance to reschedule it. It is only necessary that the temperature be 25 degrees Celsius and additional lighting for the flower.

Errors

Sometimes failures occur when transplanting Yucca, here are some that could have been avoided if you used the tips correctly.

  1. Must always be present in the pot drainage.
  2. In the container where Yucca will be planted, there must be drainage holes to drain water.
  3. The earth must be loose and nutritious.
  4. Watering is strictly regulated.
  5. The temperature should be not lower than 25 degrees heat.

Only if you follow all the instructions will rooting be successful.

How to root a flower

Plant after transplantation into new land does not require absolutely any fertilizing. The first watering with fertilizers should be carried out when Yucca begins its active growth and a month after transplantation. Watering must also be adjusted, since constant moisture will not give positive result. The soil should dry out by one third of the pot between waterings. The place should not be too sunny, the light should be diffused.

If a month after transplantation the plant feels good, then the transplantation was successful.

Yucca can be propagated at home. You just need to follow the necessary recommendations and everything will work out. As a result, there will be one or many young bushes of the wonderful Yucca.

Yucca does not grow - simple ways restore development. Read in today's article why yucca does not grow at home and what to do if basic care does not help?

Why doesn't yucca grow at home?

Yucca develops in its own rhythm - it may seem that the plant has stopped growing, and in some cases the guess will be correct, but in others it will be groundless. It is important to learn to distinguish when yucca is sick and during what periods it has moved to another level of development.

Why yucca does not grow at home:

  • Need a transplant;
  • It has not been replanted for a long time;
  • These procedures were not followed correctly;
  • The earth is exhausted;

Because yucca is not bad adapts to the home microclimate, The reasons why a mature plant has stopped growing are limited. An inspection will help determine this: if the roots of the yucca are visible from the drainage holes, or appear on the surface of the pot, then a transplant is clearly needed. When the top of the yucca no longer moves, remaining at the same level for several years in a row, pruning is needed.

You can combine pruning with yucca propagation By cutting off the top and rooting it according to the principle of planting an adult plant, then you will get several beautiful palm trees at home.

Correct transplant yucca at home

↓ Write why your yucca did not grow? Did the basic methods of stimulating plant growth at home help?


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Yucca is a plant belonging to the Agave family. Originally from Central and North America. This is a false palm. The tree-like stem may emerge to the surface. Most often, the upper part is represented by a basal rosette of leaves.

The sword-shaped leaves grow 25-100 cm in length, can be hard or semi-hard, erect or drooping, the edges can be smooth or jagged. The leaves of some types of yucca are very hard; their fiber is extracted to make ropes and wickerwork.

Bloom

At home, yucca blooms extremely rarely. Numerous (about 300) bell-shaped flowers appear on a long peduncle. They are colored white, yellowish, creamy green.

Is yucca poisonous to cats?

Yucca is not dangerous for cats: they are not interested in the leaves, and if they scratch the trunk, then, contrary to popular belief, they will not be poisoned by the “poisonous” juice. The palm tree itself is more likely to suffer, not your pets.

How to care for yucca at home

Lighting

It is important to provide good lighting. Daylight hours should be about 16 hours. It grows best near a south window; windows facing east and west are suitable. In autumn and winter, resort to artificial lighting.

Watering and air humidity

Excessive leads to rotting of the root system. Water when the soil dries to a depth of 5-7 cm. For 5 l. add about 1 liter of soil. water.

Most yucca species prefer dry air to humid air. Only some will require misting and periodic placement on a tray of humidifiers.

How often should you water your yucca in winter? As the temperature drops, reduce the amount of watering by about 2 times, only trying to keep the soil slightly moist.

Air temperature

During the warm season, maintain the air temperature at 20-25 °C. Flower bud formation occurs in cool conditions, so if you are trying to get flowers to bloom, keep them cool over the winter. With the onset of autumn, lower the air temperature to +10-12 °C.

Priming

The composition of the soil can be anything, the main condition is air and moisture permeability. An important requirement is good drainage; for this, a layer of expanded clay or pebbles must be placed on the bottom of the pot.

Feeding

During the period April-August, every 3 weeks, apply complex mineral fertilizers along with watering or apply foliar fertilizers over the leaves, spraying from the bottom of the leaves. Immediately after transplantation, as well as a diseased plant, should not be fed.

Trimming yucca at home


Remember, pruning is best done in early spring, before the active growing season starts after the dormant period.

When yucca is already too tall, it can be planted at the top like a regular cutting (we’ll talk about this below). The trunk is cut at a height of at least half a meter, and so that the succulent does not suffer from severe loss of moisture at the cut site, a candle is held, tilted, over the cut so that paraffin flows there. You can also treat the cut with garden varnish. Do not prune plants with thin trunks, less than 5 cm, otherwise they will not grow thicker.

Trimmed yucca sprouts new shoots at the cut site, which in turn, after a while, turn into long trunks. They are dealt with in a similar way: as soon as the length of the daughter apical trunks becomes too long, the tops are cut off.

The yucca is also trimmed if the trunk softens.- this is a sign of its decay. Then the apical part is urgently cut off and rooted in a light substrate, creating greenhouse conditions.

Is it possible to prune yucca in winter and autumn? In emergency cases, when the plant is sick, in order to save the apical part, pruning is carried out immediately at any time of the year. If the pruning is planned, it is better to be patient and wait until March.

Transplanting yucca after purchase and during the growing season

The first time after purchase, but the plant must first adapt to indoor conditions for about 2 weeks. Carry out a planned replanting in the spring every 2-4 years.

Soil with a slightly alkaline reaction is preferred. A mixture of turf soil, compost, humus, perlite and sand is suitable.

Transplanting yucca on video:

The container needs to be stable and deep enough. Remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots for rot. If it is detected, trim the roots, treat with a fungicide, and completely replace the soil. If the roots are in order, roll over with a clod of earth. Add soil and tamp lightly. Be sure to place a drainage layer at the bottom.

Growing Yucca from Seeds

The most commonly used method is seed propagation of yucca.

  • Seeds must be scarified: carefully break the dense shell of the seed with a needle or rub with sandpaper.
  • Fill the box with a mixture of leaf, turf soil and sand in equal proportions. Plant the seeds to a depth of 2-3 cm.
  • The distance between the seeds is 3-5 cm, but it is better to plant them immediately separately in cassette or peat cups.
  • Cover the crops with glass or film. Sprout at an air temperature of 25-30 °C and bright, diffused lighting.

  • Ventilate the shelter daily to remove condensation.
  • In the first 10 days, maintain constant soil moisture, then moisten moderately.
  • Shoots will appear in about a month.
  • When 2 true leaves appear, plant them in separate containers with light nutrient soil.
  • After 2 weeks, feed (1 g of nitrophoska per 1 liter of water).
  • When 4-5 leaves appear, transplant into a pot and care for it as if it were an adult plant.

Propagation of yucca by cuttings

When the yucca becomes too tall, you should cut off the top of the trunk, divide the trunk itself into parts, depending on the number of shoots.

  • Treat the cut areas with a fungicide and air dry until a dry crust forms.
  • Root in a mixture of turf soil and sand, creating greenhouse conditions, do not water immediately, the plant will have enough moisture available in the damp soil.
  • When the roots appear, plant them in a permanent pot and care for them as if they were an adult plant.
  • The remaining stump of the mother plant will also produce young shoots and continue to grow. Leave three to five shoots on it, remove the rest.

Reproduction by dividing the bush and lateral shoots

Propagation by lateral shoots (daughter shoots) is best done in the spring. Divide the overgrown bush very carefully into separate parts with part of the rhizome and plant it, creating conditions of high humidity during rooting.

Why do yucca leaves turn yellow and dry? Reasons

Security proper care protects against diseases and pests.

  • Yellowing, drying and falling of the lower leaves - natural process . But if dryness extends to the upper leaves, most likely the air is too dry or the air temperature is too high.
  • The tips of the leaves dry out from lack of moisture.
  • The appearance of yellow elliptical spots that turn brown over time indicates brown spotting. Remove damaged areas and treat with fungicide (spray and water with phytosporin solution). Repeat the procedure 2-3 times every 10 days.

If the root system or stem rots, it is necessary to carry out an emergency transplant, removing the rotten roots and treating with a fungicide.

Pests

Thrips, aphids, scale insects, spider mites are possible pests of the plant, due to which the yucca leaves also turn yellow and dry. First, wash them with soapy water and then treat them with an insecticide.

Indoor types of yucca

Yucca aloifolia

The shape of the crown is spherical, the leaves are hard, dark green in color, the trunk is gradually exposed.

Yucca elephantipes or giant Yucca elephantipes

The base of the trunk looks like an elephant's leg. The hard leaves are about 115 cm long and 6-8 cm wide.

Yucca glauca

Dense leaf rosettes consist of green-blue leaves.

Yucca filamentosa

The leaf blades reach a length of 30-90 cm; threads hang along the edges, which fall off over time.

Yucca is a perennial tree plant from the genus Agavaceae that resembles a miniature palm tree. However, the genus includes up to fifty species of perennial plants, and among them there are real giants: for example, elephant yucca reaches tens of meters in height. In the practice of world gardening, plants are grown both outdoors and as indoor decoration. At home, the crown of the plant is often trimmed to make the yucca more fluffy.

In Eurasian latitudes, the most common varieties include the following:

  • garden,
  • ivory,
  • filamentous,
  • aloe leaf.

Description

Yucca belongs to the Agave subfamily, which is part of the Asparagus family. Plant has a straight woody stem, although in some species it is branched. Pointed leaves of a linear-lanceolate type are formed either at the crown of the trunk or at the ends of the branches. The flowers look like panicles of several white bells. There are two types of fruits:

  • fleshy berry
  • dry box.

Most often, yucca fruits are presented in capsules, but it is almost impossible to obtain them at home: the plant is pollinated by insects endemic to South American latitudes.

In some cases, the above-ground part of the stem may be completely absent: the plant looks like a bunch of large sword-shaped leaves in a pot.

The natural range of yucca covers large areas of the Pan-American continental massif. As a cultivated plant, it is grown in warm European countries, mainly in the south.

In addition to ivory and aloe leaves, varieties of cultivated yucca are Yucca whipplei, which stands out among its relatives with a spherical, spiny crown of green leaves with a grayish tint and short-stemmed blue yucca(Yucca glauca) with long leaves, drooping downwards. From a decorative point of view, the variety of southern yucca (Yucca australis), distinguished by its branched trunk, is also interesting. Suitable for growing outdoors is filamentous (Yucca filamentosa), whose dark green leaves, combined with lateral shoots, form a neat rosette.

Bloom

Yucca cannot be called a frequently flowering plant. In addition, even with fully balanced care and maintenance, flowering will not occur earlier than 5 years after planting the plant in summer time. A timely organized dormant period during the cold season provides an incentive for the formation of flower buds on the trunk when it reaches adulthood.

Care

Yucca, like almost all of its relatives, places the highest demands on insolation, that is, the duration of exposure to the sun. Based on this, the flower is transferred to the summer closer to the open air: for example, to the loggia or terrace. Despite this, direct rays at peak solar activity can damage the foliage, causing burns. When the plant is kept in conditions of both a lack and an excess of natural light, a lush leafy crown does not form and it will no longer be possible to make the yucca more fluffy and beautiful.

Sudden changes should not be allowed temperature regime: the optimum temperature for keeping yucca lies within 20-25 ° C in summer and not lower than 10 ° C in winter.

Yucca needs plenty of infrequent watering. all spring-summer period , however, the pot tray must be kept clean and free of stagnant water. Under normal conditions, a single weekly watering is sufficient for an adult plant. The winter watering regime is determined by the air temperature: the cooler, the more moderate. It is enough to wipe the leaves with a soft, slightly damp cloth to clean the stomata of dust. Typically, only those plants that are located too close to heating devices in the winter season are sprayed with a fine spray.

Growing and caring for yucca at home:

Trimming

Since the plant blooms infrequently, there is nothing left to do but trim the yucca and make it more fluffy. During pruning, shoot primordia are used to form additional tips. In this case, the plant must overcome 60-70 cm of growth, and the stem diameter must be at least 5 cm. The pruning process is recommended to be carried out in early spring, after several days of abundant watering.

To carry out pruning you will need:

  1. a sharp knife with a blade disinfected with alcohol,
  2. finely ground charcoal,
  3. garden pitch or natural wax.

The cut location is determined at a height of 7-8 cm from the lower leaves. The leaves are intercepted by hand and the stem is cut in one motion. Breaks should not be allowed, as this can lead to rotting of the trunk. Immediately after cutting, the cut area is sprinkled with coal. After a couple of hours, the coal can be cleaned off and the cut can be sealed to prevent rotting with varnish or wax.

After several weeks of pruning, the upper part of the stem will produce two to five apical buds. If the trunk thickness is less than 5 cm, leave 2 buds, cutting off the rest. If the plant trunk is sufficiently developed and quite strong, which is determined by its thickness of 7-8 cm, then you can leave 4 buds, which will form new tops with leaves.

To get a truly spreading yucca, root the thickest of the pruned tops in the same pot with the plant to be pruned. Preliminary preparation of the green top consists of letting it wilt slightly in a cool, dark place. This method, like no other, increases the likelihood of making the yucca more fluffy.

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