Download drawings of AK 47. How to make a wooden machine gun with your own hands

For almost 70 years, several dozen modifications, prototypes and concepts of the most popular small arms in the world - a Kalashnikov assault rifle. The universal base allows you to design “guns” for almost any taste: folding, shortened, with a bayonet, optics or an under-barrel grenade launcher, for special services or individual branches of the military.

In this material we will tell you how to learn to distinguish between the main AK models and what their unique features are.

The classic, very first AK-47 adopted for service is difficult to confuse with anything else. Made of iron and wood, without any bells and whistles, it has long become a symbol of reliability and ease of use in any conditions. At the same time, it didn’t take long for the machine gun to become like this: it took Mikhail Kalashnikov several years to bring his creation to fruition.

In 1946, the military leadership of the USSR announced a competition to create an assault rifle chambered for an intermediate (in terms of destructive power - between a pistol and a rifle) cartridge. The new weapon had to be maneuverable, fast-firing, and have sufficient bullet lethality and shooting accuracy. The competition took place in several stages and was extended more than once, since none of the gunsmiths could give the required result. In particular, the commission sent AK-46 models No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 (with a folding metal stock) for revision.

The improved Kalashnikov assault rifle, which was given the index AK-47, as Sergei Monetchikov writes in the book “The History of the Russian Automatic,” was almost completely redesigned. The best ideas were borrowed from the designs of competitors' weapons, implemented in individual parts and entire assemblies.

The machine gun did not have a classic solid stock. Taking into account the strong receiver, the separate wooden stock and fore-end contributed to holding the weapon during shooting. The design of the receiver was redesigned; it was fundamentally different from the previous ones with a special liner rigidly attached to it, connecting it to the barrel. In particular, a reflector of spent cartridges was attached to the insert.

The reloading handle, made integral with the bolt frame, was moved to the right side. This was demanded by test soldiers; they noted: the left-sided position of the handle interferes with shooting while moving on the move without stopping, touching the stomach. In the same position it is inconvenient to reload the weapon.

The transfer of controls to the right side of the receiver made it possible to create a successful fire switch (from single to automatic), which is also a fuse, made in the form of a single rotating part.

The large mass of the bolt frame and a powerful return spring ensured reliable operation of the mechanisms, including unfavorable conditions: when dusty, dirty, or thickened lubricant. The weapon turned out to be adapted for trouble-free operation in the range of air temperature changes up to 100 degrees Celsius.

The wooden parts of the new weapon - the butt, fore-end and receiver grip, as well as the pistol grip, made from birch blanks - were coated with three layers of varnish, which ensured their sufficient resistance to swelling in damp conditions.

AKS-47

Simultaneously with the AK-47, a model with the letter “C”, meaning “folding”, was also adopted. This version of the machine gun was intended for special forces and airborne forces; its difference was in the metal rather than wooden butt, which could also be folded under the receiver.

“Such a stock, which consisted of two stamped-welded rods, a shoulder rest and a locking mechanism, ensured ease of handling of the weapon - in the stowed position, when traveling on skis, parachuting, as well as its use for firing from tanks, armored personnel carriers, etc. .”, writes Sergei Monetchikov.

The machine gun was supposed to be fired with the butt folded down, but if this was not possible, the weapon could also be fired with the butt folded. True, it was not very comfortable: the butt rods had insufficient rigidity and strength, and the wide shoulder rest did not fit into the hollow of the shoulder and therefore tended to move from there when firing in bursts.

AKM and AKMS

The modernized Kalashnikov assault rifle (AKM) was put into service 10 years after the AK-47 - in 1959. It turned out to be lighter, longer-range and easier to use.

“We, and especially the main customer, were not satisfied with the accuracy when shooting from stable positions, lying down from a rest, standing from a rest. A solution was found by introducing a trigger retarder, which increased the inter-cycle time, Kalashnikov wrote in the book “Notes of a Weapon Designer.” “Later, a muzzle compensator was developed, which made it possible to improve the accuracy of combat during automatic shooting from unstable positions, standing, kneeling, lying down from the hand.”

The retarder allowed the bolt frame to stabilize in the extreme forward position before the next shot, which affected the accuracy of fire. The muzzle compensator in the form of a petal was installed on the barrel thread, and was one of the obvious distinctive features AKM. Due to the compensator, the trunk cut was not vertical, but diagonal. By the way, mufflers could be attached to the same thread.

Improving the accuracy of fire made it possible to increase it sighting range up to 1000 meters, as a result, the aiming bar also changed, the range scale consisted of numbers from 1 to 10 (on the AK-47 - up to 8).

The butt was raised upward, which brought the resting point closer to the firing line. The external shape of the wooden forend has changed. On the sides it received rests for the fingers. The phosphate-varnish coating, which replaced the oxide coating, increased the anti-corrosion resistance tenfold. Monetchikov notes that the store, made not from steel sheets, but from light alloys, has also undergone radical changes. To increase reliability and protect against deformation, the side walls of its body were reinforced with stiffeners.

The design of the bayonet-knife, attached under the barrel, was also new. A sheath with a rubber tip for electrical insulation allowed the knife to be used for cutting through barbed wire and live wires. The combat power of the AKM increased significantly due to the possibility of installing the GP-25 Koster under-barrel grenade launcher. Like its predecessor, the AKM was also developed in a folding version with the letter “C” in the name.

AK-74

In the 1960s, the Soviet military leadership decided to develop small arms chambered for the low-impulse 5.45 mm caliber cartridge. The fact is that the AKM failed to achieve high accuracy of fire. The reason was that the cartridge was too powerful, which gave a strong impulse.

In addition, as Monetchikov writes, military trophies from South Vietnam also ended up in the hands of Soviet military specialists - American AR-15 rifles, the automatic version of which was later adopted by the US Army under the designation M-16. Even then, the AKM was inferior in many respects to the AR-15, in particular in terms of combat accuracy and hit probability.

“In terms of the difficulty of development, in terms of finding approaches, the construction of an assault rifle chambered for the 5.45-mm caliber can probably only be compared with the birth of the AK-47, the father of the entire family of our system. At first, when we decided to take the AKM automation scheme as a basis, one of the factory managers expressed the idea that there was no need to look for something and invent something here, they say, a simple re-barrel would be enough. “I marveled in my soul at the naivety of such a judgment,” Mikhail Kalashnikov recalled about that period. - Of course, changing a barrel of a larger caliber to a smaller one is not a difficult task. Then, by the way, the popular opinion began to circulate that we just changed the number “47” to “74”.

The main feature of the new machine gun was a two-chamber muzzle brake, which, when firing, absorbed approximately half of the recoil energy. A rail for night sights was mounted on the left side of the receiver. The new rubber-metal design of the butt butt with transverse grooves reduced its sliding along the shoulder when conducting aimed shooting.

The handguard and stock were initially made of wood, but switched to black plastic in the 1980s. External feature the butt had grooves on both sides; they were made to lighten the overall weight of the machine gun. Shops were also made from plastic.

AKS-74

For the Airborne Forces, a modification with a folding stock was traditionally made, although this time it was retracted to the left along the receiver. It is believed that this decision was not very successful: when folded, the machine gun was wide and rubbed the skin when worn behind the back. When worn on the chest, it became inconvenient if it was necessary to fold back the butt without removing the weapon.

A leather cheek muff appeared on the upper side of the butt; it protected the shooter’s cheek from freezing to a metal part in winter conditions.

AKS-74U

Following the world fashion of the 1960-70s, the USSR decided to develop a small-sized machine gun that could be used in cramped combat conditions, mainly when shooting at close and medium distances. The next announced competition among designers was won by Mikhail Kalashnikov.

Compared to the AKS-74, the barrel was shortened from 415 to 206.5 millimeters, which is why the gas chamber had to be moved back. This, writes Sergei Monetchikov, entailed a change in the design of the front sight. Its base was made in conjunction with the gas chamber. This design also caused the sight to be moved closer to the shooter’s eye, otherwise the aiming line would be very short. Finishing the topic of the sight, we note that the machine guns of this model were equipped with self-luminous attachments for shooting at night and in conditions of limited visibility.

The greater pressure of the powder gases required the installation of a reinforced flame arrester. It was a cylindrical chamber with a bell (an extension in the form of a funnel) at the front. The flame arrester was mounted on the muzzle of the barrel, on a threaded fit.

The shortened machine gun was equipped with a more massive wooden fore-end and a gas tube receiver; it could use either standard 30-round magazines or shortened 20-round magazines.

For a more complete unification of the shortened machine gun with the AKS-74, it was decided to use the same butt, reclining on left side receiver.

AK-74M

This machine gun is a deep modernization of the weapon adopted for service in 1974. Saving everything best qualities, inherent in Kalashnikov assault rifles, the AK-74M acquired a number of new ones, which significantly improved its combat and operational characteristics.

The main feature of the new model was a folding plastic stock, replacing the metal one. It was lighter than its predecessors and similar in design to the permanent plastic stock of the AK-74 produced in the late 1980s. When worn, it clings less to clothing and does not cause discomfort when shooting in low or high temperature conditions.

The handguard and the barrel lining of the gas tube of the machine gun were made of glass-filled polyamide. By heat transfer new material almost indistinguishable from wood, which eliminated hand burns during prolonged shooting. Longitudinal ribs on the fore-end made it easier and more secure to hold the weapon during aimed fire.

"The hundredth series" (AK 101-109)

These modifications of the Kalashnikov, developed in the 1990s on the basis of the AK-74M, are called the first domestic family of commercial weapons, since they were intended more for export than for domestic consumption. In particular, they were designed for the NATO cartridge of 5.56 by 45 millimeters.

AK-102

AK-107

From the designs of the “100th” series machines (similar to best model 5.45 mm Kalashnikov assault rifle - AK74M) wooden parts are completely excluded. The butt and forearm of all are made of impact-resistant glass-filled polyamide in black color, for which this weapon, as Monetchikov writes, received the name “Black Kalashnikov” from the Americans. All models have plastic stocks that fold to the left along the receiver and a rail for mounting sights.

The most original in the “hundredth” series were the AK-102, AK-104 and AK-105 assault rifles. In their design, a breakthrough was made in increasing the level of unification between standard assault rifles and their shortened versions. Due to a slight increase in the overall length (by 100 millimeters compared to the AKS-74U), it became possible to leave the gas chamber in the same place as in the AK-74, thus allowing the use of a unified moving system and sighting devices on all machine guns of the series.

The “hundredth” series assault rifles differ from each other mainly in caliber, barrel length (314 - 415 millimeters), and sector sights designed for different ranges (from 500 to 1000 meters).

AK-9

This machine gun was also developed on the basis of the AK-74M; it also used developments from the “hundredth” series. Same black color, same polymer folding stock. The main difference from the classic Kalashnikovs can be considered a shortened barrel and a gas exhaust mechanism. Experts call the new pistol grip, which has better ergonomics, an important improvement.

The machine gun was created as a silent, flameless rifle system for covert shooting. It uses subsonic 9x39 mm cartridges, which together with a silencer make the shot almost inaudible. Magazine capacity - 20 rounds.

The forend has a special strip for various removable equipment - flashlights, laser pointers.

AK-12

The most modern assault rifle of the Kalashnikov family, testing of which has not yet been completed. One of the most striking external changes is the use of Picatinny rails for attaching attachments. Unlike the AK-9, they are both on the forend and on top of the receiver. At the same time, the lower bar does not interfere with the installation of under-barrel grenade launchers - this option is retained. The AK-12 also has two short rails on the sides of the handguard and one on top of the gas chamber.

In addition, the butt of the machine gun is easily removed and can be folded in both directions. On top of that, it is telescopic; the cheekpiece and butt plate are adjustable in height. There is also a variant of the machine gun with a stationary, lighter plastic butt.

The fire switch safety flag is duplicated on the left side; the machine gun can fire single, short series of three shots, and in automatic mode. And in general, all the controls of the machine gun are made in such a way that a soldier can use them with one hand, including changing the magazine and pulling the bolt. By the way, a variety of magazines can be used, up to an experimental drum with 95 rounds

In Russia there have always been craftsmen who surprised the world with their skills and inventions. We are especially good at making weapons. So Izhevsk master Mikhail Kalashnikov created the legendary AK-47 assault rifle, which inspired another master to build a copy of it from a simple garden shovel and iron pipes.

And by the way, this is not a Russian craftsman at all.

On the left in the photo, by the way, is the same machine gun made from a shovel, and on the right is the Dragunov sniper rifle (SVD).
But we are getting ahead of ourselves.

The master who made this is from the USA. Once he was driving past a store with gardening tools, saw a shovel there and decided to buy one. This was the best deal he could get for $2, he thought.

The handle of the shovel, by the way, later turned into a butt and is surprisingly quite comfortable.

I decided to try the stock on an old Kalash. The cat looks in bewilderment, is the owner drunk again?

I cut off a tray from a shovel; the machine body will be made from it.

I roasted it well on the fire.

Now you need to level this sheet of iron.

We bend the sheet and drill holes.

On the left is a detail from a real Kalash, on the right is from a future one.

Specialists, of whom there are always many, will tell you in the comments what kind of detail it is.

More details.

We weld

It was the turn of the barrel, you could buy the original for 200 bucks, but they preferred the economy option for 30 bucks.

Below in the photo is the upper barrel from a real Kalash, in the middle is a ready-made factory version of the barrel and a third, collective farm version - our choice.

We process the trunk.

Let's try it on.

Let's finish the details.

We weld parts from a real machine gun.

There is very little left.

We drill a hole to remove gases.

We try on the magazine and the butt of the shovel, everything seems to fit!

What's most surprising is that he shoots, and the bullets fall quite close together.

After 60 rounds the barrel got a little hot, but my homemade AK-47 performed quite well.

In total, at minimal cost we get a pretty good, combat-ready weapon. Thanks to Mikhail Kalashnikov for his great invention!

If you have anything to add, dear weapons experts, please comment.

Those who provoke srach about Russia, Ukraine and Putin are banned without warning.

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IN modern world many children are practically indifferent to toys. Electronic gadgets are of much greater interest now. Of course, every parent is concerned about this and tries to introduce their child to games with real objects.

One of the most the best ways One way to wean your child off from virtual worlds is to make a toy with him. A do-it-yourself machine will be an excellent toy with which you can have a lot of fun. And if you manage to save it, it will be an excellent souvenir “from childhood”, bringing with it a lot of pleasant memories.

There are several ways in which you can create an automaton. It all depends on how much time and effort you are willing to put into the craft. Another important factor is the availability of all the necessary tools. After all, not everyone has a whole carpentry kit in stock.

If the child for whom the product is intended is old enough, then you can further diversify the toy. Namely, add a shooting function.

The main thing to remember is that in order not to overshadow the process of creating a wooden machine, you should also not forget about basic safety rules. Protect your hands when working with cutting tools. Purchase a protective mask and respirator in advance for working on a grinding machine or with sandpaper.

There are a huge number of fun things you can play with your children. Undoubtedly, these are outdoor games. At the same time, an integral advantage of a wooden toy is its durability. The same cannot be said about plastic analogues.

How to make a simple machine from wood

To diversify your child’s games, you can make a simple wooden machine. It won't take much time, but first you need to prepare everything you need.

Tools:

• Circular saw;
• Drill;
• Jigsaw;
• Sharpener 10 cm.
• Sandpaper;

To simplify your work, print out a drawing of the machine model. The drawing can be easily found on the Internet. Then follow the instructions below:

• Take a block of wood or a piece of thick board;
• Based on a drawing or photograph of a machine gun, carefully mark the boundaries of the future weapon on the tree with a marker;

If you print an image of a machine gun on paper, and then cut it out and use it as a stencil, the product will turn out to be very realistic. After all, all proportions will be maintained.

• Start cutting straight lines using a circular saw;
• Pay special attention to cutting out the curved parts of the machine. To do this you need to use a jigsaw;
• Use a sharpener to contour the weapon;
• To make the machine more interesting, do not forget to drill holes such as the barrel;
• Polish the resulting weapon using sandpaper by hand;
• Take a small piece of wire, preferably aluminum, to construct the trigger;
• At the end, paint the machine or varnish it;

This wooden toy machine is quite easy to make and will bring a lot of joy to the child.

How to make a realistic Kalashnikov assault rifle

A realistic model of the machine can be made at home using available tools. So, here is a list of things you will need:

• Thick and wide board (thickness should be at least 4 cm);
• Wood handle (quite thin);
• Plywood sheet;
• PVA glue;
• Dye;
• Jigsaw;
• Milling machine;
• Sandpaper;
• Magnets;
• Marker;

To begin, select required material for work. It is better to choose a pine board.

When choosing wood for a product, please note that there should be no knots or splinters on it.

We make a sketch on the wood. Using a marker we outline the outline of the future Kalashnikov. It is worth considering that the magazine will be separately attached to the machine, so you need to draw it separately. When the image is ready, begin to carefully cut out the blank using a jigsaw.

In order for the magazine to be securely attached to the base of the weapon, you need to try it on and sharpen it several times. Nothing should get caught, only in this case the child will be comfortable while playing.

Use a milling machine to add volume to the product. To do this, it is necessary to chamfer the handle, as well as the butt. Subsequently, sand the workpieces as best as possible.

Take the prepared side parts, cut from plywood, and glue them to the main part of the machine, generously smearing them with glue. Particular attention should be paid to the contour of the workpiece. Then press all the parts for more reliable gluing, and leave for several hours until completely dry. As a result, it is worth sanding the product again so that the plywood parts do not stand out.

Start modeling the barrel of the future wooden machine gun. At this stage you will need a thin cutting (you can make it yourself or purchase it in the construction department of the store). You also need to cut out the front sight and drill holes in the machine gun in order to later fasten the barrel. Lubricate all parts with glue at the fastening points. After the machine is completely assembled, give it time to dry.

At the final stage, start painting the resulting machine model. You can use dark paint or varnish.

If you prefer paint, use water-based paint. It's safer.

To make the magazine more securely attached to the machine, it is necessary to use magnets. If the purchased magnets are in the shape of a tablet, then before gluing them, it is worth drilling small holes in the magazine and the inside of the machine. The diameter of the holes must match the diameter of the magnets. If you purchased a roll-type magnet, then glue a piece of the magnet of the desired shape and size to the inside of the machine. In this case, a metal plate must be glued to the magazine. It is better to choose quick-drying glue or superglue.

Now the wooden machine gun is ready. This weapon model is very interesting and realistic, which means it will undoubtedly be in demand among children.

How to make a toy machine and wood

Before you start working on a future toy, carefully draw a sketch of the future machine and transfer it to the material from which the product will be made. In this case, each detail must be drawn separately.

Make sure that the entire set of tools necessary for the job is at your fingertips. For the initial finishing you will need: hammer, chisel, hatchet, plane, wood hacksaw, metal hacksaw, drill, level.

For harvesting, you should choose coniferous wood. And on the blank, leave at least 15% of the material as a reserve. This is required for subsequent adjustments to the shape of the product. All elements of the future machine are cut out separately.

After all the parts are cut out of the wood, you need to move on to the sanding stage. To achieve the desired result, use the following sequence. First, file each piece using files. Then use coarse sandpaper first and then fine sandpaper to bring the surface of the product to the required level of smoothness.

At the last stage, start decorating the future toy. To do this, coat the surface of the wood with varnish, preferably in two layers. Pre-prime the areas where the paint will be applied.

Let the toy machine dry. And you can start playing.

How to make a Schmeisser machine gun

You can make a machine gun from wood different ways. It all depends on your skill and the materials you have at hand.

To make a machine model you will need:

• Wooden slats - 2 pcs.;
• Super glue;
• Nails;
• Espagnolette;
• Hacksaw;
• Sandpaper;

The boards or slats that will be used must be at least 50 centimeters long. We saw the first strip lengthwise in the middle, leaving only a third. While the lower part needs to be removed. We divide the second rail into two unequal segments. The longer part will be the magazine, and the short part will be the handle of the future machine gun.

The prepared parts of the product must be sanded using sandpaper. Then fasten all the parts together using glue.

Also, any weapon needs a front sight. Make it from a nail, carefully driving it into the upper part of the barrel. Make the trigger in a similar way. Attach a latch to the side of the machine as a bolt.

At the final stage, sand the future toy again with sandpaper. Then cover the entire machine with dark paint. And let the product dry.

Now you can enjoy playing this slot machine and win new victories.

How to make a simple Schmeisser

It often happens that there is not enough time to create a complex machine model. But this is not a problem, because a simple Schmeiser can be made from scrap materials. You will need:

• Chisel;
• Nails;
• A pair of wide slats;

Divide one of the slats into two parts. It is desirable that one of the halves is longer than the other.

On the second rail, cut out several pieces in the area of ​​the future trunk. Also in the opposite part, saw off a piece of wood so that you get an acute angle. This will be an improvised butt of a machine gun.

Finally, use nails to attach the magazine and the handle to the main part of the toy.

How to make a dummy machine gun from wood

Often, ordinary plywood is an excellent material for creating a dummy. Using one of the methods, you can easily make a machine model with your own hands.

To work you will need the following “basic” tools and accessories:

• Plywood. It is not necessary to use a whole sheet of material; in most cases, scraps are sufficient. However, it is important that the pieces are of the appropriate size and thickness. Sometimes it is worth choosing thicker plywood, since during use the layout may be subject to significant loads;
• Tools. This list includes both devices for grinding and cutting. To make various recesses and holes on the surface of the dummy, you need to have a carpenter's knife or chisel on hand. While for sanding several sheets of sandpaper of varying degrees of grit are sufficient;
• Protective covering. The future product must first be coated with a special compound that protects it from moisture. And then cover the dummy with wear-resistant paint. Black wood paint is most often used. But you can also use silver.
• Glue. In order for all parts of the machine to be securely fastened, it is necessary to use epoxy resin as glue. If it is not available, then you can get by with PVA glue. And in some cases even superglue;

To create a real dummy, you need to find a sketch of a real machine in advance. It is advisable that all exact dimensions are indicated on the drawing.

When all the components of the future dummy have already been cut out of plywood, you need to glue them together and securely fasten them until they dry completely. Clamps will be very useful in this process. They will securely fix all the parts together.

In order for the “blank” to take the shape of the desired machine, it is necessary to recreate all the holes and recesses. Use a jigsaw for this, first drilling the holes and then shaping them.

The dummy must have a realistic appearance. This means you will need to work hard. If you do not have enough experience working with cutters, it is better to start with more simple details. Otherwise, you may accidentally damage the product and the work will have to start from scratch. However, the result should please you with its similarity to the original.

Pay special attention to sanding. To give the necessary smoothness, carefully sand the dummy with sandpaper. First, go over the entire surface with coarse sandpaper. For example, marked M - 100. And then use small paper for finishing.

Of course, it is necessary to paint the dummy. Please note that the colors must match the original of this machine model. Choose paints of the desired shades.

How to make a machine gun that shoots rubber bands

Any machine gun model presented above can be modified by adding the ability to fire.

The easiest way is to attach a small handle to one of the sides of the machine. A thin lath may also work. The “trigger mechanism” can be installed either from above or from the side. The main thing is that it is comfortable for small children's hands.

You can attach the cuttings using nails or superglue. The main thing is that the fastening is reliable.

Another thing necessary for shooting is a rubber band. It is better to use so-called “bank” rubber bands. They cost very little and are the perfect size. There may be a couple of these rubber bands in your organizer. To charge the weapon, weave two rubber bands, attach a paper clip to one of them. If possible, it is better to make several charges. To fire the shot, carefully grasp the paperclip. In this case, the elastic band must be stretched to the very edge of the handle. And then release the paperclip.

Try not to point the weapon at people or animals, as the shot can have significant force and cause harm to others.

How to modify a machine

In order for a wooden weapon to be fully equipped, in addition to the machine gun itself, you will need a bayonet, a knife and a belt to carry. This will be especially true if the toy was made of dense wood.

The belt can be made of canvas tape. And it is attached to the machine with two rings of metal wire, or in pre-cut holes. Also, for more comfortable wearing, you should make a “double loop” from the tape. To do this, you will need a piece of a weapon belt twice the standard length and a ring made of thick wire. First, we attach the belt to the machine gun, so that one of the edges is fixed near the barrel, then we thread the belt into the prepared ring and draw it closer to the base of the barrel. We pass the middle of the tape through the fastening near the butt. If everything is done correctly, there should be a long “tail” of the belt, to the edge of which it is necessary to sew a ring made of durable metal, which remains hanging on the fixed section of the belt.

In the future, it is the elongated part of the belt that is put on the person, and the machine gun remains hanging on it. This option of carrying a wooden weapon will allow the child to play carefree, without having to hold the machine with his hand all the time. However, when calculating the length of the belt, it is worth considering that in a free position, the barrel should not touch the ground.

Now your dream wooden machine has been created and is fully equipped!