Ricardo keep his personal life quiet. How did poor Italian boy Riccardo Tisci become creative director of Burberry? I live more for music than for the fashion world
Loud changes in the fashion world continue. 2017, the anniversary year for the Givenchy house, founded in 1952, began with a scandal: Riccardo Tisci, who had determined the face of the house since the mid-2000s, decided to leave.
Rumors that Riccardo Tisci would leave the post of creative director of the house began circulating on January 31 and were confirmed on February 2. According to one version, the reason for the great designer’s departure was the intrigues of his friend Donatella Versace, who allegedly finally managed to lure him to her place.
The basis for such assumptions is the close friendship of the designers, which in 2015 even resulted in an incredible advertising campaign for Givenchy with the participation of Donatella Versace. In 2015, having become the advertising face of Givenchy, she made a loud statement to the press: “I believe that you need to break the rules. Riccardo Tisci is incredibly talented and also a friend of mine. We are Family. I want to get rid of the old system, work together, support each other and make the fashion industry a truly global community.”
Whether she was talking about a one-time collaboration or working for one brand is still unclear, but if Donatella herself can afford to break the rules (Versace - private company), then for Riccardo Tisci this was a very bold step (the house he headed until the last moment is part of the LVMH group).
Riccardo Tisci, Donatella Versace and Naomi Campbell
Alessandro Bianchi/ReutersThe ex-director himself claims that he is leaving his position due to the fact that his contract has come to an end.
Another reason can be considered Tisci’s long-standing dream of creating clothes of her own brand. The designer had plans to launch his collection even before working at Givenchy, which he began in 2005. According to him, having received a job offer from a fashion house, he did not want to agree. However, financial difficulties forced the designer to accept the offer.
The women's and men's Pre-fall 2017 collections, as well as the Haute Couture collection shown in January, were the last things the Italian designer created for Givenchy. At the Paris pret-a-porter fashion week, which will take place from February 28 to March 7, the Givenchy show will still take place, but the line was created under the creative direction of the house's in-house designers. It is still unknown who will take the place of the new creative director.
Over 12 years of work, Riccardo Tisci managed to develop a corporate style for the house, which was lost after the retirement of the brand’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, in 1995.
During Givenchy's time, the brand personified elegance and aristocracy, which suited the designer's muses - and. But in the mid-90s, the era of glamor began. Between Givenchy and Tisci, the brand was led by designers who were more suited to other fashion houses.
Charles Platiau/Reuters
In 1995, by decision of the head of LVMH, he was invited to replace Hubert de Givenchy. He instantly attracted attention with his elaborate and at the same time provocative collections, demonstrated with a theatrical effect that was unexpected for that time. However, his talent was more suitable for the house of Christian Dior, so the designer was transferred to another brand, and his place was taken by. But he was not suitable for this position either.
The collections created by the designer have been subjected to serious criticism more than once. Then fashion designer Julian MacDonald took over the post, but he didn’t last too long.
Tisci, who joined Givenchy in 2005, not only brought stability to the legendary brand, but also revived it for a new generation of luxury consumers.
Now Givenchy is associated with sexual provocation, which echoes street fashion.
It was Ricardo who introduced the gothic trend in clothing, he also came up with a print with a huge star, and his T-shirts with snarling Rottweilers (autumn-winter 2012 collection) became iconic.
Photo report: How Riccardo Tisci entered fashion history
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Tisci wanted his clothes to be worn by people of different ages, genders and races. One of his favorite muses is the transsexual Lea T, whom Tisci made the face of the fall 2010 collection.
The designer has repeatedly created images for world-famous stars. Concert dresses and Beyoncé evening dresses for Madonna and Rooney Mara, Wedding Dress. One of Ricardo's latest ideas was to expand Givenchy's reach as a lifestyle brand by introducing a range of clothing for babies and children.
Riccardo Tisci took Givenchy to a new level. Today the brand has 72 stores (there were seven before Tisci arrived). In addition, the company recently took over the direct distribution of its collections in two key luxury markets: Dubai and Singapore. According to market sources, with the arrival of Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy's profits increased more than sixfold. And the number of company employees has tripled - from 290 in 2005 to 930 currently.
Riccardo Tisci (Ricardo Tisci)- a famous designer from Italy, who holds the position of creative director of the famous Fashion House in France.
Brief biography of designer Riccardo Tisci (Ricardo Tisci)
The future designer was born in Italy, in the town of Taranto. His family had many children - 8 girls and 1 boy, Ricardo. Their father died early when the boy was only 4 years old. Ricardo's mother raised the children alone. These were difficult times for them big family, we lived very poorly, we only had to eat once a whole day. Because of this, the mother was once almost deprived of parental rights. Ricardo was forced to wear the clothes his sisters wore. But Elmerida, the designer’s mother, must be given credit, since she was always trying to come up with some kind of entertainment for the children, compensating for the lack of money for school trips and other trips. Ricardo had the greatest wealth - the love of his nine dearest women, who took care of him and showered him with attention.
But you can’t bury talent; nature endowed Ricardo with the ability to draw. In addition, the designer had a deep, versatile inner world, because he grew up on fairy tales, legends and myths of his people. All this gave rise to a huge number of original and unusual images in his head.
In the 90s, Riccardo Tisci was lucky enough to win an internship at the company Faro, located in the town of Como. Then the designer worked in companies such as Paloma Picasso And . At the age of 17, the young man went to study in the capital of Great Britain, where he graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins Academy. Later in his interviews, the designer recalled how he had to survive in London. And he actually got into it educational institution quite by accident, when I saw an advertisement in one of the free newspapers during a trip on the subway about enrollment in this college. Ricardo latched on to this announcement as his last hope to fulfill his long-time dream. The young man easily and very successfully passed the exams for the entrance campaign, and was also awarded a state grant, which made it possible to take a course of study for three years.
In 1999, designer Tisci graduated from this educational institution. Ricardo’s mother, who left Italy for the first time and flew on an airplane, was also invited to the graduation show. From that time on, the mother was present at every show of her talented son. This performance was widely covered in the British fashion publication Vogue on 12 pages. Each item in the collection was made by the hands of the designer, as well as his sisters and mother. It must be said that this debut collection immediately had famous customers - Bjork and Janet Jackson.
After showing the first collection, the designer was forced to return to Italy, where he worked with such brands as Ruffo Research And . While working at Ruffo Research, the designer's debut show was canceled just a few weeks in advance, as the company's owners announced they were reforming the business. After such events, Ricardo left for India in search of himself, his calling. In 2004, the young man returned to Milan, where he demonstrated his work to a famous model Maria Carla Boscono. It was this woman who began to persuade the designer to hold a show of the collection, for this she even asked her model friends to take part in the show completely free of charge. This is how the world fashion community saw the first collection of Riccardo Tisci for the Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 season. A year later, the designer was offered the position of creative director at famous company Givenchy, to which he, of course, gave his consent.
But for Ricardo, this work and contract were not at all to improve his financial situation. He devoted himself completely to it, spending a lot of time studying the archives of the Fashion House in order to develop his own unique style. His working day in the office began at 6 am, together with the cleaners, and ended well after midnight. One fine day, the owner and founder of the company found out about such a crazy rhythm, Ricardo. Hubert Givenchy and invited the designer to have breakfast at his mansion.
Thanks to Tisci, the Givenchy brand was talked about again, laudatory reviews from fashion critics poured in, respect and financial stability returned. Ricardo's Haute Couture collections were extremely popular. Madonna and Jordanian Queen Rania became his clients. For Madonna, the designer was engaged not only in sewing everyday clothes, but also clothes for tours. And for Queen Rania, the designer completely changed her wardrobe.
Since 2008, Riccardo Tisci has been creating clothing and accessories for strong half humanity, and also the release of perfumes. In 2009, he decided to create an affordable clothing line called Givenchy Redux.
In 2011, in collaboration with the brand, an exclusive limited edition sneaker model was released. In 2014, Ricardo signed a contract with the famous company, for which he created a line of sneakers Nike R.T.
Today, Riccardo Tisci holds the title of one of the world's most famous designers. But fame, a large flow of money, success did not change his crazy craving for his favorite business. He still loves his homeland Italy, his sisters and his mother. Often in his interviews, the designer calls himself a child who doesn’t want to become an adult at all.
Video of the designer’s collaboration with Nike - review of the sneaker model:
Where to buy men's and women's clothing, shoes, accessories, perfumes by designer Riccardo Tisci, store addresses in Ukraine:
The designer's products can be purchased at Givenchy and Nike stores. The addresses of the company stores of these companies in our country can be found on the official websites.
Designer Riccardo Tisci does not yet have an official website.
The most anticipated debut of the coming month is, of course, the collection of Riccardo Tisci for Burberry. For the designer, this is the first collection in the last 12 years that he does not create for Givenchy. And for Burberry, this is the first collection in 17 years that someone other than Christopher Bailey is working on.
Expect nothing less than a sensation from Riccardo Tisci's September show. Firstly, because Tisci's appointment at Burberry is associated with an ambitious plan for a radical reconstruction of the brand, previously proposed by Marco Gobetti, the chief executive. Secondly, because Tisci has already managed to take several unexpected and decisive steps over the past few months: he changed the prim logo of the British brand to a bright one, announced the collaboration of Burberry with the queen of British punk Vivienne Westwood... So, Tisci’s first collection should be clear make it clear: the era of Christopher Bailey is behind us, and the new Burberry has nothing in common with it.
This is not the first time Riccardo Tisci has undertaken a radical redesign of the brand. In the 2000s, he changed the image of Givenchy, turning the French fashion house, famous for its couture collections, into a relevant and dynamic brand. It is worth recognizing, however, that the situation with Burberry is completely different. As creative director, Tisci succeeds Christopher Bailey, who, like himself, is an innovator, a darling of the international press and a celebrity, and his departure is still a source of regret for many. Burberry, moreover, has always been a much more democratic and less niche brand than Givenchy, and over the years of its existence has become a symbol of British identity popular around the world. That is why the question is so acute about whether the Italian Tisci, who worked most of his life in Paris, will be able to win the favor of the brand’s customers.
Marco Gobetti, who joined the company a year ago, seeks to transform the brand from relatively democratic to exclusive. Gobetti’s plans include diversifying Burberry products, launching new lines of accessories, and widespread use of expensive materials (leather, for example). It is not surprising that Riccardo Tisci was invited to the post of creative director, with whom Gobetti, by the way, had already worked once: at Givenchy about ten years ago. Tisci, with his many years of experience in haute couture, knows how to create an aura of exclusivity and luxury like no one else: Riccardo Tisci’s clothes at Givenchy unconditionally gained a reputation as a status symbol, and in just the first few years of his work at Givenchy, the number of clients for couture collections increased from 5 to 29.
Although Tisci managed to build brilliant career V high fashion, his own origins are humble: the designer was born in southern Italy into a working-class family. His father died when Riccardo was four years old, and his mother raised nine children (the designer has eight sisters) alone. Tisci had to work from the age of nine to pay for school, and instead of spending time with his peers, in his free time he was more willing to draw. As the designer admits, only after moving to London did he feel truly himself.
Tisci came to London when he was 17 years old, receiving a scholarship from St Martin's College. Tisci found London in the 1990s incredibly exciting. He was delighted by nightclubs, eccentric partygoers (he even saw the legendary Leigh Bowery at one of them) and extravagant shows by Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, which Tisci in most cases managed to sneak into without an invitation. While in Italy Tisci worked part-time by handing out flyers for clubs, in London he became a regular at parties. He created the outfits himself, repurposing items found in second-hand stores, and his most ambitious acquisition was student years there was a pair of Nike sneakers. Ironically, in the 2010s, he began collaborating with Nike and remade the same Air Max 97 he was once crazy about.
Tisci graduated brilliantly from St Martin's College, and his graduation collection, inspired by the works of Fellini and Pasolini (and made by the designer's sisters), was said to be excellent. After graduating from university, Tisci returned to Italy, where he worked with several brands. In 2004, after a long trip to India, he launched his own eponymous brand, the very first collection of which attracted the management of Givenchy.
The French brand was just then looking for a replacement for Julian MacDonald, the British designer who served as creative director after Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Givenchy's position was not the best: sales remained low and style was quite inconsistent. But Tisci’s debut collection - eclectic, original and modern - attracted the attention of people from LVMH. Tisci's work for his independent brand, which the designer showed in an abandoned Milanese factory, combined Gothic elements and allusions to the work of Martin Margiela - the same mixture of romanticism and ironic refinement for which he is so appreciated today.
Riccardo Tisci, 2005.
Surprisingly, Tisci was initially reluctant to accept LVMH's offer. He changed his mind because of the difficult financial situation in which his family was. “I didn’t want to agree at all,” the designer told Vogue magazine. “I was going to decline their offer.” But a week before the meeting with Givenchy, my mother called me and said: “I think I’ll sell our house, it’s hard for your sisters, they have children, they need money. And I’ll move to a nursing home.” When I heard this, I felt like a complete failure... And then I went to an interview in Paris, where they showed me a contract with an insane number of zeros... It was a real divine salvation.”
Over the first few seasons at Givenchy, Tisci managed to develop a recognizable style, in which the influence of the gothic subculture and Catholicism, techno and street fashion was clearly visible. In 2008, Tisci was entrusted with working on Givenchy men's collections. They were influenced by street style and, as critic Tim Blanks noted, “ecclesiastical austerity.” Tisci, an Italian from the south, has always been dramatic, and his shows sometimes resemble theatrical performances, such as the September 11, 2015 show in New York, held at sunset to the sounds of Ave Maria. It was directed by artist Marina Abramovic, Tisci's longtime friend and fan.
Riccardo Tisci after the Givenchy spring-summer 2008 collection.
An army of celebrity fans appeared at Givenchy already in the late 2000s, among them was Kanye West, who was gaining popularity. By the way, it was Riccardo Tisci who was largely responsible for the emergence of a new style icon – Kim Kardashian, whom, despite general skepticism in the fashion industry, he began dressing in the early 2010s at West’s request.
Tisci, with his talent for unexpected combinations - low and high, casual and formal - also became one of those who introduced the trend for sportswear (remember his reverent attitude towards Nike sneakers!). However, one of the most memorable designs of Riccardo Tisci during his collaboration with Givenchy remains a sweatshirt with a Rottweiler print - it seems that all stylish men managed to flaunt it. We can confidently say that the retinue of famous fans will remain faithful to Tisci even now: at least judging by the fact that Beyoncé recently wore his Burberry jumpsuit to her concert.
Riccardo Tisci is the new creative director of Burberry since March 12, 2018The news of the new appointment at Burberry shocked the fashion community and excited all his sympathizers. Such a move was not expected from the brand management. Riccardo Tisci, former creative director of Givenchy, a lover of decadent luxury, eccentric retro-futurism and dark sensuality, and Burberry, a brand usually associated with minimalist classics or, more recently, with democratic and relaxed athleisure. What can this “hot” Italian bring to a brand with a “cool” and “functional” British aesthetic? If you think about it - not so little. Once you dig a little deeper, it becomes clear: the appointment of Riccardo Tisci to this position is quite natural.
Englishman Christopher Bailey, who announced his departure from Burberry in October 2017, remained in his post for 16 years. He is considered (and this is absolutely right!) the person who inspired the brand new life. Revenue under him beat all imaginable and unimaginable forecasts, and the brand, which back in the 90s had an image of being conservative and aimed primarily at people of middle age and older, has noticeably rejuvenated. First of all, thanks to the course towards digitalization - Bailey, a talented visionary, was one of the first to take it, several years before the era of the craze for social networks. In particular, back in the 2000s, Bailey launched The Art Of Trench project - a website about the history of the legendary trench coat, where anyone could upload a photo of themselves wearing the iconic Burberry raincoat. This was in 2009 and there was a whole year left before the advent of Instagram.
Among the Briton’s other “digital” achievements are online broadcasts of shows, during which anyone could buy the item they liked; collaboration with Snapchat, Google and Apple Music and serious “modernization” of branded boutiques - for example, they now have screens that display all the information about the items presented in the store.
In addition, Bailey rejuvenated Burberry's advertising campaigns. During his era, idols of millennials and then “Generation Z” began to star for the fashion house and its beauty division: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Cara Delevingne, Adwoa Aboah, Jude Law’s daughter Iris and Pierce Brosnan’s son Dylan.
Gradually - although not immediately - Burberry clothing itself began to become “modernized”. If, for example, back in the SS2014 season, Bailey focused on conventional femininity, graphic cut and minimalist, although not boring, classics, then already in the SS2017 collection there is a noticeable movement towards fashionable asexual androgyny, the creative director’s craving for an asymmetrical cut in the spirit of deconstructivism.
Further more. In the summer of 2017, the brand launched a collaboration with Gosha Rubchinsky, a designer whose name in the name of a brand or collection today in itself adds a hundred points to relevance. Sportswear with the legendary Burberry check appeared at Rubchinsky twice - in the SS18 and FW18-19 seasons. Thus, Bailey not only once again proved his ability to “keep his nose to the wind”, but also ironically played on one of the stereotypes associated with Burberry: in his native Britain, things from this brand are often associated with the style of “chavs”, rude guys from the outskirts, nearby relatives of our “gopniks”. Around the 80s, these “brave” guys actively wore baseball caps and T-shirts in the same check - often fake, but who cares? By allowing Gaucher, the main apologist of the hip style, to combine these items with his aesthetic, Bailey returned them to fashionable “legitimacy.”
Around the same time, the designer himself also began to gravitate towards the ultra-fashionable athleisure style. No more tight skirts and “office” knitted dresses. Their place was taken by windbreaker jackets, wide track pants, oversized coats (but, of course, checkered ones!) and stretched, “aged” cardigans.
Bailey dedicated his latest collection for Burberry (SS18) to LGBT youth and his own youth, which fell in the 80s and 90s - decades that, by no coincidence, are increasingly cited by modern designers. Models walked the catwalk in puffy vests, long sleeves and rainbow-print ponchos. In addition, the collection contains items in acidic shades, as if painted with graffiti, and “wild” looks made up, for example, of oversized sweaters and multi-tiered long skirts.
In a word, Bailey managed to make the brand entrusted to him in a good way crazy, reckless and, as a result, truly fashionable, and not just due to the fact that it belongs to the fashion industry. The appointment of Riccardo Tisci in light of this is a completely reasonable step that fits perfectly into the strategy to rejuvenate yesterday’s “brand for respectable pensioners.”
Italian Tisci has been in the fashion industry for almost 30 years. In the 90s and the first half of the 2000s, he collaborated with Missoni, Antonio Berardi, Puma, and also worked on his own brand of the same name. But it was only when he assumed the post of creative director of Givenchy in 2005 that the young designer truly became famous. According to rumors (which are most likely true), during the interview with the bosses of the fashion house, he was the only candidate who did not mention the name of Audrey Hepburn, with whom the classic Givenchy style is primarily associated. And that is why the management chose a candidate who was unknown to anyone in those years. The Parisian fashion house desperately needed someone who could make its pieces desirable. younger generation– just as the old British brand Burberry needed it in 2001.
Tisci lived up to expectations. He, like Bailey, managed to completely modernize the brand under his control. Some even think it's too much. Thus, Hubert de Givenchy himself said in an interview with the online publication Women’s Wear Daily that Ricardo’s works for Givenchy “do not feel the spirit of home.” The Italian retorted, answering that he, like the legendary founder, has “his own Audreys” - model Mariacarla Boscono, artist and actionist Marina Abramovic, transgender model Lea T. and rock diva Courtney Love. This is not the entire list of Tisci's muses. During his time at the helm, Ciara, Rihanna, Beyonce and Kim Kardashian became Givenchy's friends. The latter even married Kanye West (another great friend of the brand) in a Givenchy dress by Riccardo Tisci.
“Kim for me is the personification modern woman, says the designer. “She is the embodiment of today’s society.” If someone doesn’t like it, that’s their problem.”
But, of course, it’s not just about the ability to gather a pool of “your” people around yourself. Givenchy clothes also became different with the arrival of Tisci. During his 12 years of work in the fashion house, he managed to establish himself as a lover of solemn, but not gloomy “Gothic”, baroque-style excessive decoration, black color and architectural cut.
The Italian loves experiments that border on shocking. He put models on the catwalk wearing masks and pierced makeup, and created fantastic avant-garde headdresses and costumes that looked like Martian robes.
It’s unlikely that the shy Audrey would have decided to try any of this, but the new generation of fashionistas undoubtedly liked this aesthetic. The brand's revenue increased exponentially, and the FW15 collection was almost completely sold out within the first few days of sales. The brand was also loved by A-list stars like Madonna and Julia Roberts. In 2012, Tisci canceled couture shows, saying they were out of date and inappropriate, and that he preferred to show haute couture items on stars who wore them on the red carpet. True, in 2016 the couture line was resumed: Tisci combined the show with a men's show and released a lookbook. And then he invited industry professionals and clients to the studio so that they could see with their own eyes how made-to-measure outfits are created.
Riccardo Tisci is an Italian fashion designer who has successfully headed the famous French house Givenchy since 2005. His close friends include Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Kanye West, Madonna and Courtney Love. His list of muses includes artist Marina Abramovic and top model Mariacarla Boscono. He has dozens of successful collections and several high-profile collaborations behind him. Other interesting facts about Ricciardo are in our review.
- Riccardo Tisci was born in 1974 in the Italian city of Taranto, which was founded by the inhabitants of Sparta as a city-state back in 706 BC. This area is known for numerous myths about mermaids and other fairy-tale and mystical characters. These mysterious motifs often form the basis of most of the designer's collections for Givenchy.
- In 1990, Riccardo won an internship at the textile company Faro in Como, which led him to work at Missoni and Paloma Picasso, creating patterns and designs for these famous brands.
I live more for music than for the fashion world. Art and music leave the most vivid impressions in life, and it doesn’t matter what your social status is or who you are. This is pure creativity.
- Riccardo got into the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design thanks to his mentor, designer Antonio Berardi. The young fashion designer managed to successfully pass the entrance exams, but he did not have the money to attend the Academy. Willie Walters, director of the fashion course, insisted that the young man not give up trying to start studying and turned to the state for a scholarship. Tisci subsequently won a grant which gave him entry into the second year of a three-year training program at Central Saint Martins.
- On February 28, 2005, the entire fashion world was shocked by the unexpected news about the appointment of a young designer to the post of creative director of the French House of Givenchy. Incredibly, Tisci was willing to turn down the offer as he wanted to focus entirely on his own brand and its development. It was only due to lack of money and the threat of selling his mother’s house that the fashion designer decided to take the proposed position.
Yes, I love gothic. But I also love rave and dancing until I drop. I understand Gothic not as depression, but as dark beauty. I love the night. Because you can do cool things at night, like sex. Or go to parties and meet people there. Night is the time of sleep and the time of dreams.
- After showing Tisci's first collection for Givenchy Haute Couture, Queen Rania of Jordan called the fashion house's office with a request to create an entire wardrobe for her. When the designer flew to London, the Queen greeted him dressed entirely in Ricardo Tisci.
- A few months ago Riccardo Tisci
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