Zhanna Lanvin is a trendsetter. Zhanna Lanvin: biography and activities

LANVIN JEANNA

(b. 1867 – d. 1946)

Jeanne Lanvin, who was lovingly called the “mother of fashion,” was the first female designer, one of the brightest female figures in the fashion world of the 20s of the XX century. Her exceptional talent and efficiency allowed her, a girl from a poor family, to reach unimaginable heights, creating a whole world of elegance and grace, which became a symbol of luxury and refined taste.

Jeanne Lanvin was born on January 1, 1867 in Paris into a family with little income. About 15 years before her birth, her grandfather, a simple printing house employee, rendered a great service to Victor Hugo: he helped the writer escape from the police, providing him with a passport and clothes. Hugo remembered this all his life and many years later helped Jeanne’s father get a job to support his family. The father earned enough money to feed three, but the trouble was that ten years after the birth of the first child, there were already 11 children of the same age in the family. Zhanna, as the eldest, had to early years help mother with housework and babysit younger brothers and sisters. Therefore, and also because the Lanvin family quickly became impoverished, the girl never went to school.

At the age of 13, Zhanna had to go to work. First, she got a job as a housekeeper for one of the “mid-range” milliners in the Saint-Honoré area. She not only did housework, but quite often she had to be a delivery boy, delivering orders throughout the city. In order to somehow save money on pocket expenses, little Zhanna did not use public transport. Running after the buses with huge hat boxes in her hands, she dreamed of the time when she could earn gold louis d'or. The studio knew about this and jokingly called the girl “little omnibus.” Having been busy all day, Zhanna quietly sat down in the evening with her dolls and began to dress them up according to her style. latest fashion– she could repeat the models she saw in the smallest detail.

In 1883, when Jeanne was 16 years old, she moved to another atelier, to Madame Felix, where she was taken on as a milliner's apprentice. Very quickly she became a favorite student, and then the first craftswoman in hat finishing. Two years later, Lanvin decided to set out on her own. Taking out a small loan, she opened her own workshop for making women's hats. The business developed slowly, but the girl managed to withstand serious competition, and in 1889 her workshop, transformed into a hat-making studio, moved to Boissy-d'Angla Street. Now here, in house number 16, the studio began to occupy the entire attic. Although there would be further moves later - to a two-room apartment on the Rue Saint-Honoré, and then to the Rue Maturin, it was 1889 that began to be considered the date of the founding of the Lanvin Fashion House.

Gradually, Lanvin's fashion business gained momentum. At first, Zhanna simply needed money - younger brothers and sisters were growing up in the family, and she considered it her duty to help her father earn money to support them. However, her intricate hats soon became extremely popular among fashionistas in Paris. Zhanna began to have her own regular clients, most of whom belonged to high society.

Sometimes the aspiring fashion designer would walk the streets of Paris, watching respectable ladies who could become her clients. She learned social manners from them so that she could present herself correctly when working with them. Once during such a walk, Jeanne met a young man, Count Emilio di Pietro. This Italian, a handsome man who was fond of horse racing and betting, was five years younger than Jeanne - he had just turned 23. Soon, fascinated by the young woman, Pietro proposed to her. Jeanne, who had long felt the need to become a mother, decided to accept this proposal and get married, although she did not feel love for the count. In 1895 they got married, and two years later, in August 1897, baby Margarita (Mergerit) was born. This marriage lasted only eight years - in 1903, Jeanne Lanvin divorced Emilio, and four years later she married again. This was also a marriage of convenience, and for reasons of reputation, her chosen one was Xavier Mele, a former journalist and now a diplomat, the French consul in Manchester. However, this man did not occupy too much of a place in the life of the already famous Madame Lanvin. When Mele retired, he settled in one of his wife’s country houses and completely stopped delving into Jeanne’s affairs.

Zhanna's only true love was her daughter Margarita, or Ririt, as she herself called the baby. Ririt became a guiding star for Lanvin, and it was from the moment of her birth that Zhanna’s career as a fashion designer began. Lanvin dedicated almost all of her collections to her daughter. “Every client who chooses dresses from Lanvin acquires a piece of the love of mother and daughter,” wrote Jerome Picon, author of a biography of Jeanne Lanvin. This love became a symbol of Jeanne Lanvin's entire enterprise. In 1922, the artist Paul Irib drew several humorous drawings, depicting Jeanne and her daughter in satin dresses and the famous Lanvin hats. One of them – “mother and daughter in a union of love and tenderness” – became the emblem of the Model House.

Margarita was the main muse for Jeanne until she married the grandson of Minister Clemenceau, becoming Madame Rene Jacquemer. With her second marriage, Ririt was able to realize her mother’s most ambitious plans. She became Marie-Blanche, Countess de Polignac, and began to play one of the leading roles in the life of Parisian society.

After the birth of Ririt, Zhanna changes the direction of her activities. She leaves the hats and devotes all her creativity to her only daughter. Before her, children's dresses were just a smaller copy of an adult wardrobe. Convinced that children's clothing should not be so strict, Madame Lanvin creates lovely outfits for Margarita. They were included in her first collection of children's clothing, which became the basis of the Lanvin Fashion House. Ririt, a pretty blond girl, looked charming in outfits made by Zhanna. The parents of the little fashionista's friends became the first clients of this new line of activity of the House of Lanvin. Gradually, the fame of the House grows, and soon Zhanna is bombarded with orders. A little later, Lanvin introduced a new line - models for women of all ages. Now she also began to dress the mothers of her little clients.

A distinctive feature of the Lanvin style was the method of draping fabrics, which was new for the first quarter of the 20th century, allowing the creation of very feminine dresses. She brought into fashion soft nirvure folds, copied from ancient outfits. Her ankle-length dresses, made of soft flowing fabrics, were not overly sexy, but feminine and romantic. They went down in fashion history as “stylish dresses” from Lanvin. The second main feature of the style was exquisite embroidery and appliqué. For decoration, Lanvin used not only openwork beaded trim and various embroidery, but also a mosaic of pieces of glass, mirror and metal.

Madame Lanvin drew her various ideas from her personal library, which included priceless books on art, fashion, the history of costume, collections of illustrations and even samples of luxurious fabrics that made up her “library of materials.” Zhanna collected these samples personally, bringing them from her travels around different countries, where she traveled from time to time with her second husband, a diplomat. On one of these trips to Italy, she was struck by the unusual shade of blue in Fra Angelico’s painting. Lanvin would later make this unique lavender blue color the crown color of his Model House.

With the outbreak of the First World War, Zhanna did not stop the activities of her Model House. The front was far away, but Parisians always wanted to dress beautifully. Moreover, Jeanne opened branches of the House in Cannes, Deauville and Biarritz, and in 1918 organized shows of her models abroad - in England, Spain, Italy, Argentina and Brazil. By the mid-1920s, Zhanna Lanvin became one of the recognized masters in the world High fashion. Wearing Lanvin clothes was considered a sign of good taste and a symbol of belonging to high society. All the royal houses of Europe and famous actresses of the 1920s dressed at Lanvin. A major role in advertising Lanvin dresses was played by Jeanne’s daughter, by that time already the famous and influential Countess de Polignac, who created a clientele for her mother all over the world.

The business of Lanvin, this remarkable female fashion designer, flourished: from 1918 to 1939, over 16 thousand models were presented under the Lanvin brand. Her fashion house, which by that time already consisted of 25 studios located in Faubourg Saint-Honoré, employed more than a thousand people. Zhanna launched a sports, men's and couture line. House Lanvin becomes the first House where the whole family could dress. Since 1915, Jeanne herself has taken part in all international exhibitions, and in 1925 she became the organizer of fashion shows at the World Exhibition in Paris. In 1926, her services were duly recognized - Madame Lanvin was awarded the Legion of Honor. Since 1936, she received the title of Ambassador of French Fashion.

In 1923, Zhanna Lanvin took another step in her couturier career and began producing perfumes. In the suburbs of Paris, she acquired a dyeing plant, which she converted into a perfume factory. Her first scent, Irise, resembled a mixture of iris and violet. Then, in 1925, Mon Peche perfume was created, released in America under the name My sin, and in Spain - Geranium. Two years later, the Aprege fragrance dedicated to Margarita appeared, becoming one of the new pages in the story of the love of a mother for her daughter. The perfume bottle, created in the shape of a glass ball, was decorated with an engraving self made with the image of the emblem of the House - a mother bending over her daughter.

Jeanne Lanvin continued to work during the Second World War, proclaiming “beauty, no matter what.” True, her style became simpler, but that didn’t make it any less attractive.

Lanvin died in July 1946 at the age of 79. After her death, the Model House passed to her daughter. Margarita at first tried to understand the affairs of the company, but, completely not understanding similar business, in 1950 she handed over the leadership of the House to the Spaniard Antonio Canovas del Castillo, who was replaced in 1963 by Jules François Krahe. However, neither they nor subsequent stylists managed to raise the House. And only at the beginning of the new millennium, the House of Lanvin seemed to wake up from an eternal sleep and come to life. A new spirit was introduced by designer Alber Elbaz, who transformed the classic “Lanvin” image of a woman, “without changing anything radically in it, but simply expanding the boundaries of understanding femininity and the limits of grace.” Today, the Lanvin Fashion House operates successfully, and the company's annual turnover, which has reached 1.5 billion francs, is growing. The fashion house with centuries-old traditions today continues to create clothes and perfumes that “have their own character and at the same time emphasize the individuality of the owner.”

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She was called a rival of Coco Chanel, although Jeanne Lanvin's creative biography began much earlier (she is older than the great Chanel). The source of inspiration for the artist-fashion designer was her daughter Marie-Blanche; it was not for nothing that the brand’s logo featured a lady leading a baby by the hand.

Biography of Jeanne Lanvin

Outfits for dolls and younger sisters

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (who preferred to be called simply Jeanne) was born on January 1, 1867. There were 10 daughters and sons in the family, and the Parisian parents were very poor. From an early age, Zhanna began sewing outfits for her dolls, and then for little sisters. At the age of 13 she was already working. As an apprentice in a hat shop, the girl spent her days delivering hats to clients, carrying huge boxes around Paris.

Soon she managed to get a job as a junior seamstress with the famous milliner Madame Felix. There she learned the basics of craftsmanship. The next place of work - with tailor Talbot - opens up new prospects for the student. The biography of Jeanne Lanvin continued in Spain; in Barcelona she again studied diligently - with local mistresses.

Your own business

Returning to her homeland, the girl opened a small hat workshop. She still helped her parents, so she worked tirelessly. Refined taste helped Zhanna very soon acquire a distinguished clientele. By the way, the Frenchwoman also drew inspiration from Russian folk costume.

The hatter herself became a member of high society (just like Coco Chanel at the beginning of her career). There she met an aristocrat and married him. The marriage was short-lived, but Jeanne had a daughter, Margaret, whom everyone called Marie-Blanche.

From that moment on, a very successful period began in the biography of Jeanne Lanvin. Having started dressing her daughter, she became famous as a skilled designer of children's clothing. Parisian women ordered dresses from her for their daughters, and five years later the couturier released her debut collection of dresses for little ones.

New Horizons

At the turn of the century, Lanvin opened a boutique, and since then the Lanvin brand has been producing women's clothing. The artist Paul Iribe sketched a logo for the brand: a beauty holding her little daughter’s hands.

Zhanna began to travel, and new ideas were born on her trips. Thus, the “Blue Lanvin” collection is inspired by the images of the Italian painter Fra Angelico. Lanvin collected fabric samples and experimented with silhouettes. At first she worked on soft, romantic, flowing dresses in an antique spirit, and then turned to oriental motifs.

Gold embroidery, wide skirts, powerful frills - all this Jeanne brought into fashion during the First World War. And having dressed the writer Edmond Rostand, she also became a trendsetter in men's fashion. Gradually, the brand developed; the assortment included underwear, fur products and luxury interior items.

Lover of delicate colors

Lanvin paid a lot of attention to color, “inventing” shades and calling them in her own way (“Lanvin blue,” “Polignac pink,” “Velasquez green”). In 1923, she even opened her own dyehouse in Nanterre. Despite this, the designer also appreciated black, calling it “the ultimate chic”; she believed that elegant black things should definitely be present in the wardrobe.

Soon the first couturier perfumes appeared (by that time Lanvin had long been a member of the High Fashion Syndicate and could bear this title). The bottle of Lanven Aprege perfume had the same logo with a lady and a girl.

Until now, the My Sin perfume is considered one of the most unique fragrances. Zhanna also became famous as a talented costume designer - she created costumes for a dozen famous performances.

Romantic dresses gave way to wide women's trousers, and later Laven's models featured rigor and laconicism, successfully combined with femininity (during the Second World War, dressing up magnificently was considered bad manners).

Personal life of Jeanne Lanvin

Two failed marriages

Jeanne's first marriage was not very happy - she married Italian Count Emilio di Pietro on February 20, 1896, but they divorced in 1903. At the same time, the couple had a daughter, Margarita.

Jeanne Lanvin's personal life changed four years later - her chosen one, Xavier Mele, was a journalist, with whom she traveled around the world. He worked for the conservative publication Le Temps, and then received the post of consul in Manchester, England. This destroyed the family.

Zhanna died at 79 years old - in 1946. The post of head of the Fashion House was taken by the couturier’s daughter, married to Countess Polignac. She was at the helm until her death in 1958. Marie-Blanche did not have children, and the family business ended up in the hands of her cousin Yves Lanvin. The brand experienced difficult times for a long time, but with the arrival of Alber Elbaz in the early 2000s, everything improved.

A unique woman in every way, milliner Jeanne Lanvin decided to become a couturier in 1909 and created a fashion house in which she presented her collection of original clothing models.

In 1922, Jeanne Lanvin creates the world famous Lanvin logo, representing her and her daughter. Oldest house fashion in France is still considered one of the most prestigious manufacturers of clothing, perfumes and accessories.

The Fashion House prefers to sew stage costumes for the legends of the Parisian stage, Cecile Sorel and Yvonne Prantant. Actors and actresses also appear in Lanvin clothes in everyday life. Lanvin is popular not only among bohemians, but also among the intellectual elite. The services of the fashion house, starting with Edmond Rostand, have been used by many members of the French Academy. The brand manages to enter the world of luxury and high society: high-ranking persons appear in Lanvin clothes at court, at celebrity weddings or at magnificent celebrations...

Jeanne Lanvin also takes part in the promotion of other French fashion houses, and at the same time she actively appears at national and international exhibitions, representing her Lanvin brand. In 1926 she received the Legion of Honor.

A talented designer, Jeanne Lanvin knows how to create not only style, but also a whole world of elegance and sophistication. A passionate fan of art, she surrounds herself with artists and talented young people to whom she bequeaths her cultural heritage.

Jeanne Lanvin wants to create unique world for your clients. She entrusts the design of her hotel and her own houses to interior designer Albert Armand Rato.

At the same time, they develop interiors for boutiques and theaters, reproducing the main motifs of the Art Deco movement. Interior design has a lot of golden tones, black and white, but blue is present everywhere. Jeanne Lanvin paints the walls of her room a unique soft blue with a bright purple tint, invented by Fra Angelico. In her clothes, she increasingly resorts to rich, bright blue.

In 1925, she again invited Albert Armand Rateau to decorate the Lanvin stands at the Exhibition of Decorative Arts. In the 30s, Eugene Pritz created the interior design of the brand's representative office on rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

Having become the exclusive interior designer of Lanvin boutiques, Armand Rateau did not fail to bring his creative spirit into the history of the brand. With his usual spirituality and talent, he gets to work and soon creates the bottle design for Lanvin's first fragrance, Lanvin Irise. He calls his bottle “just an attempt.” Following this, many Lanvin fragrances and lotions were born: for example, Apr?s le Sport and Cross-Country. All Lanvin products are quickly becoming fashionable. However, Lanvin's first great success came with the My Sin fragrance, introduced in 1925. Jeanne Lanvin opens Lanvin Parfums, to which she invites young perfumer Andre Fraisse. This was followed by the opening of the Lanvin laboratory.

But the real sensation is the appearance of the legendary Arpege fragrance. This fragrance, according to Jeanne Lanvin, “gives women what music brings to this world.” The scent was created by Jeanne's daughter, and the design of the perfume bottle (the famous black ball, decorated with the legendary drawing by Paul Iribe, which immortalized Jeanne Lanvin's love for her daughter) was invented by Albert Armand Rateau. It was a triumph.

However, each of the fragrances released in subsequent years brought success to the brand. Scandal in 1933, Rumeur in 1934, Pr?texte in 1937, as well as eau de toilette, powder, blush, creams, tanning oils, refreshing and water L "Eau de Lanvin.

Jeanne Lanvin begins to collaborate with specialists in various fields: with Baccarat - in the development of glass bottles, with the Sèvres Manufactory - in the production of a new color range of limited edition fabrics, with Christophe - in the development of a line of Pr?texte suitcases.

In 1939, as the world stands on the threshold of World War II, Lanvin dares to release a fragrance for men called Crescendo. The next perfume of the Eau de Lanvin brand was released in 1946 after the end of the war.

Although Lanvin continues to produce perfumes High Quality, they no longer have the same success.

In 1996, L'Oreal bought up all the shares of the Lanvin enterprise and set out to return the brand to the popularity it gained during the time of Jeanne Lanvin.

Fashion

The bold creative nature of Jeanne Lanvin managed to maintain its charm and sophistication throughout the entire existence of the brand. Ambitious, talented and open-minded, she created the Lanvin style - unique, elegant, “French”.

With an iron fist, Jeanne Lanvin ruled the brand for half a century before giving way to her daughter Marie Blanche de Polignac in 1946.

From 1950 to 1963, a new face appeared at the Lanvin fashion house - Antonio Canovi del Castillo. He becomes the chief designer of women's ready-to-wear clothing. Haute Couture clothing has been created by fashion designer Jules-François Craye for 20 years, from 1964 to 1984.

In the 2000s, the brand continued to develop, Alber Elbaz became creative director Lanvin in October 2001. Starting work at Lanvin, he sets out to combine the traditions of the past and the trends of the future and creates the image of a Parisian woman - an elegant city dweller, modern and sensual. By this time, his coats, decorated with shiny inserts, ballet flats and airy dresses trimmed with rhinestones, had become iconic. Alber Elbaz pays tribute to Parisian fashion.

His style, which has received high praise from fashion critics, is recognized by the public in every collection. Fashion journalists never cease to praise the talent of the designer, who managed to update the image of gentle femininity and preserve the traditions of Art Deco graphics, so dear to Jeanne Lanvin. Albaz says to himself: “My main quality, besides the fact that I am a Lanvin designer, is imagination!” In just four years, he elevated the Lanvin brand to previously unknown heights with his amazing works. Actresses Cate Blanchett, Chloë Sevigny, Natalie Portman are becoming passionate fans of the Lanvin brand.

In September 2006, the book “Interior and Haute Couture, works by Armand Albert Rateau for Jeanne Lanvin, new art deco” was published.

A book with the simple title “Lanvin”, telling about the style created by Jeanne Lanvin and Alber Elbaz, was published in September 2007.

The Lanvin house took part in an exhibition held at the Natural History Museum in Paris from October 24, 2007 to March 18, 2008. There were headdresses and perfume bottles encrusted with pearls created by Jeanne Lanvin.

At the same time, Lanvin participated in an exhibition at the Paris Fashion Museum. The brand presented 170 clothing models, more than 200 accessories, as well as Lanvin fragrances and cosmetics. The brand's exposition is intended to clarify the connection between modernism in clothing and modern architecture, as well as to reveal the influence of the traditions of Japanese, Russian and African culture on designers. Among the models on display are works by Jeanne Lanvin created in 1952 for the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts, her sketches and perfume bottles.

Important dates

1909 - Jeanne Lanvin opens a fashion house
1920 - Creation of the Lanvin brand
1923 - Creation of the Lanvin Sport collection
1924 - Creation of the Lanvin Parfums perfume store in Paris
1926 - creation of a line of Lanvin suits, blouses, furs and underwear
1927 - opening of boutiques in Deauville, Barcelona and Buenos Aires. Lanvin Arpege fragrance launches
1946 - The sudden death of Jeanne Lanvin. Her daughter Marie-Blanche Polinignac becomes the main director of the house
1950/1963 - Antoni del Castillo becomes chief designer and designs all Lanvin women's collections
1964/1984 - Jules François Krahe becomes responsible for the development of Haute Couture clothing
1972 - Christian Bethe takes over as head of the design team developing ready-to-wear clothing for men.
1976/1991 - Patrick Lavoie replaces Christian Benet
1989 - Robert Nilssen becomes head of women's ready-to-wear clothing development
1992/2001 - Dominic Morlotti becomes head of women's ready-to-wear collections
1996 - L'Oreal buys Lanvin Parfums
1996/1997 - Osimar Versolato becomes head of the department for the development of women's ready-to-wear collections
2001 - Shaw-Lang Wang buys Lanvin
Since 2002- Alber Elbaz heads a fashion house and creates collections for women and men
July 2008- Creation of the Jeanne Lanvin fragrance
From February to July 2009- Lanvin participates in the exhibition “Sailors set the tone in fashion” at the National Museum of the Fleet in Paris
March 2009- Opening of the first boutique in Paris

Zhanna Lanvin always loved to dress well and dress her children. In 1889, she saved enough money and bought a shop on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, where she sold clothes for women. In her free time from work, she sews these for her little daughter. beautiful outfits that many people, paying attention to them, begin to order copies from Zhanna for their children. All this gave Zhanna the idea of ​​creating a separate line for children, which she did in 1908, becoming a kind of founder of a new children's fashion. Before her, children's clothing was sewn according to adult prototypes, but Zhanna develops special patterns from which she makes clothes for children.

In 1909, the milliner began accepting orders for sewing clothes not only for children, but also for their mothers, including the most famous women in Europe, who were clients of Jeanne’s boutique. This circumstance allows her to join the High Fashion Syndicate, which gives her the official status of couturier and allows her to open her own Fashion House. Later, Lanvin had its own signature logo, designed by the famous Art Deco artist Paul Irib and representing the silhouette of a lady leading a girl by the hand.

In 1913, flying dresses from Lanvin won the hearts of all the very first fashionistas in Europe and brought great success to their creator: their ankle length and original design allowed women to combine outfits with any accessories. Jeanne's clothes, with their characteristic floral patterns and refined lines, become a kind of sign of belonging to high society.

In 1920, Lanvin expanded his label's range by opening stores dedicated to home decor, men's fashion, furs, linen.

Since 1923, the company has become the owner of a dyeing plant in Nanterre. In the same year, the first sports line Lanvin Sport was released. However, the most significant innovation of the Fashion House was the Lanvin perfume line, launched in 1924, as well as the presentation of the Arpège fragrance, the creation of which Jeanne was inspired by the sounds of her daughter playing the piano. A little later, the fragrance “My Sin” was released, based on heliotrope and becoming one of Lanvin’s most unique works.

What made Lanvin one of the most influential designers of the 1920s and 1930s was his skillful use of intricate trimmings, masterful beadwork, and decorating clothing with clean, light florals. All this became a kind of trademark of the brand and distinguished it from other Fashion Houses. Already at that time, the clients of the Lanvin studio were film stars, opera singers and representatives of royal families.

In 1946, after the death of Jeanne Lanvin, ownership of the company passed to her daughter, Marie-Blanche de Polignac. Marie herself died in 1958 and, since she was childless, management of the brand passed into the hands of her cousin, Yves Lanvin. In March 1989, the British bank Midland Bank acquired a stake in the company. In 1990, this share was resold to Orcofi, a French holding company led by the Vuitton family. In 1996, Lanvin became fully owned by the L'Oreal Group.

In August 2001, the Lanvin Fashion House, one of the oldest in Europe, was taken under the patronage of the investor group Harmonie SA, led by Mrs. Shou-Lan Wong, a media tycoon from Taiwan. In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed artistic director of all areas of the Lanvin Fashion House, including the interior design department. In 2006 he presented new packaging for the Fashion House's products, which depicted forget-me-not flowers in Jeanne Lanvin's favorite shade, allegedly seen by her in ancient frescoes.

Lanvin gained international recognition when Michelle Obama was photographed wearing the brand's suede sneakers, adorned with lace ribbons and metallic appliqués, in May 2009. According to connoisseurs, this pair of shoes cost $540. On December 4, 2009, the first Lanvin boutique opened in the United States, located in one of the ports of Florida.

On September 2, 2010, it was announced that the Lanvin Fashion House had begun collaborating with the famous brand of affordable clothing H&M, as well as the imminent release of their joint winter collection. It was presented to the public on November 4 and went on sale on November 20, 2010. The collection was available in 200 H&M stores around the world, and the day before the start of global sales, it was exclusively released to the store in Las Vegas.

Lanvin is a famous fashion house created by an extremely talented and energetic Parisian “from the bottom”, who began her career at the age of 16 and already at the age of 22 became the owner of her own hat salon.

In fact, according to the rules of transliteration from French, “Lanvin” should be read as “ Lanvin" However, the Anglophile transcription of “Lanvin” has already become generally accepted among us - we will use it further to name the manufacturer, and we will leave “Lanvin” for its founding mother Jeanne - this wonderful woman deserved to have at least her immediate surname spelled correctly.

So, Jeanne Lanvin She started with elegant women's hats and, from the influx of clients, she quickly became convinced that with her taste, ingenuity and hard work, it was not worth stopping there.

The last thing she wanted was to amaze and shock someone - no, her desire was to see her clients as elegant and aristocratic, with the advantages of their figure emphasized, and not at all their outfit.

And she also had a charming daughter named Margarita, to whom her mother tried to give everything that she herself was deprived of in childhood. And why does a lovely girl need to be stuffed into prim and uncomfortable costumes copied from adults? No, Madame Lanvin categorically disagreed with this - and thus became the discoverer of the children's and teenage fashion.

Clients looked at Margarita, wonderfully trimmed by her mother, ordered similar dresses for their daughters and... noted all sorts of highlights and details that they would like to see not only in their daughters’ dresses, but also in their own.

Jeanne Lanvin hardly thought of the word “democratization” in relation to what she was doing with women's clothing. Sophistication - yes, stylishness and romance - yes, convenience - yes, but nothing else was in mind. And yet, it happened - our own fashion house, in which not only Parisians were eager to dress socialites, out of habit, ready to walk to the line and endure for the sake of beauty, but also feminist-minded bohemians, and film stars who were not at all comfortable with toeing the line.

In 1922, Lanvin acquired an emblem. Decorative artist Paul Irib made several drawings where, in the art deco style, he depicted Jeanne and Margarita gently playing in their signature hats - Jeanne chose one of these drawings for the logo.

In 1925 Lanvin released its first perfume My Sin- clearly with an eye on the American market, where they sold really well. By the way, this perfume was created by the Russian emigrant Marie Zed, but she did not collaborate with Zhanna anymore, and major success I didn’t come to Lanvin with her.

Classic Lanvin

- a famous fragrance created in 1927 and brought world success to Lanvin perfumers. Jeanne Lanvin dedicated the perfume to her now adult daughter Margarita, who herself gave the name to this wonderful floral-aldehyde scent, revealing its notes one after another, like a musical arpeggio.

After 85 years, Arpege remains business card Lanvin, to which the fashion house periodically returns as the dominant feature of its creative searches.

Thus, in the summer of 2013, an exquisite enamel evening bag on a bracelet, dedicated to this fragrance and made in its black and gold tones, was presented to the public.

Initially, Arpege was made from natural ingredients, and modern products in this sense differ significantly from it. However, perfumers managed to preserve the beauty of the shimmer of the classic arpeggio in the current difficult conditions of the struggle for the triumph of chemistry and universal unification. Main notes of the aroma: aldehydes, ylang-ylang, amber, peach, coriander, geranium, vetiver, iris, lily of the valley, jasmine.

Eclat d'Arpège– a modernized version of Arpege, released in 2002. In terms of richness of colors, Eclat d'Arpège is somewhat inferior to its ancestor, but the nobility, tenderness and versatility of the new fragrance made it very popular. And not only among the young girls for whom it was intended, but also among adult ladies who appreciate the calm nobility of Lanvin perfumes.

Main notes of the aroma: lilac, peony, tea leaf, peach blossom, musk. Almost every year a new limited edition of the next version of Eclat d’Arpège is made; Of these, the most successful are the floral (2005) and the more tart-citrus Eclat d'Arpege Limited Edition (2009).

A little earlier, in 2000, a revolutionary one for Lanvin was released Oxygene. It was presented as a floral-aquatic, but the peppery note initially gives the aroma a bright sparkle, and it opens with the milky-floral tenderness of iris and gardenia. Not all lanvin lovers understood such an original idea.

But Oxygène provided Lanvin with an influx of new enthusiastic admirers of non-standard ideas and... to their great regret, a few years later, for some unknown reason, it was discontinued, so it is now quite difficult to find it. Main notes of the aroma: white pepper, iris, milk, gardenia, musk, bergamot.

A male version appeared in 2001 Oxygène Homme. The majority - both male consumers and lovers of “stealing a little from a guy” - agreed that this pine-resinous-forest aroma is excellent, but does not at all live up to its name and description, because there is nothing aromatic-oxygen in it.

In general, Lanvin has been producing men's perfumes since 1964, when the legendary chypre Monsieur, which divided men into its ardent supporters and ardent opponents, which is not at all typical for this brand. This is how Lanvin’s first combat men’s “pancake” turned out – this experience was taken into account and was never repeated. Classicism and consistency have become a symbol of Lanvin men's fragrances. The most recognized of them are Lanvin L'Homme(1997) and Arpege Pour Homme(2005 year)

New products from Lanvin

In honor of the founder of the perfume house, a fragrance was released in 2008. Such a decision would probably seem strange to Jeanne Lanvin herself - naming her name is not at all a classic, modern youth fruity-floral scent.

But one quality of all Lanvin perfumes is undoubtedly inherent in these perfumes: unobtrusiveness and restraint. They may not be very impressive, you may not like them very much the first time, but they will definitely not cause rejection either among young berry-and-fruit lovers or sophisticated connoisseurs of luxurious flower bouquets.

Main notes of aroma: raspberry, blackberry, peony, pear, citrus, freesia, rose, musk.

The 2012 variation became more “adult” and richer Jeanne Lanvin Couture. The berry-raspberry-currant beginning is also present there, but it is effectively complemented by cedar, magnolia and enhanced musk. Unlike the classic “Jeanne,” Jeanne Lanvin Couture is more suitable for cool weather than hot summer. Main notes of the aroma: raspberry, violet leaves, white cedar, peony, musk, magnolia.

Marry Me is a floral-fruity fragrance launched in 2010. Despite the cheeky girly name and packaging, this is a decent Lanvin. There is nothing simple or overtly provocative in Marry Me. The aroma is harmonious, moderately romantic, positive and suitable for a woman of any age as a daytime scent. Main notes of the aroma: jasmine, peach, orange, freesia, rose, musk. 2012 edition Marry Me! Love Edition fruitier and, by all accounts, remarkably long-lasting.