History of fashion design. Women's fashion of the beginning of the twentieth century. Children's fashion

In a secular society, where fashion and toilets were a certain language in which the highest circles communicated, attire became a symbol of etiquette. Hence the appearance of milliners in the 18th century - the best dressmakers who sewed to individual orders, and then of Parisian dress shops.
Paris has always been the trendsetter of women's fashion. French tailors were invited by the crowned Elizabeth Petrovna, and her de facto successor, Catherine the Great, by decree of 1763, allowed foreigners to live and trade in Moscow with privileges. In Catherine’s time, French milliners and various fashion shops had already appeared in both capitals: the latter appeared under the names: “Au temple de gout” (Temple of Taste), “Musee de Nouveautes” (Museum of New Products), etc. At that time in Moscow famous milliner Vil, who sold fashionable "shelmovki" (sleeveless fur coats), caps, horns, magpies, "queen's rise" and La Greek, sterlet shoes, snails, women's skirt caftan, swinging chicken-form and furro-form, various bows, lace.

After the revolution of 1789, emigrants poured into Moscow. Among them was the famous Madame Marie-Rose Aubert-Chalmet. From the end of the 18th century, Madame had a store on Kuznetsky Most, and then in her own house in Glinishchevsky Lane near Tverskaya, where, among other things, she sold excellent hats at exorbitant prices, which is why Muscovites nicknamed her “over-scammer” - they even believe that the word swindler itself originated on her behalf. She had such a “arrival” that Glinishchevsky Lane was filled with carriages, and the store itself became a fashionable meeting center for the Moscow elite. Noble clients once saved the madam herself when her store was sealed for smuggling. The milliner's profile was very broad. They ordered a “dowry” from her for rich marriageable girls, and ball gowns - this is how Madame ended up on the pages of the epic “War and Peace”: it was to her that the old woman Akhrosimova was taken to dress the daughters of Count Rostov.
The milliner suffered a sad and unflattering fate. When Napoleon attacked Russia, two warring worlds collided on the Kuznetsky Bridge. Having become Napoleon's adviser, the experienced madam gave him valuable recommendations regarding politics in Russia, and together with Napoleon's army she left Moscow and died of typhus on the way.

Ober-Shalme was replaced by the even more famous milliner Sickler, in Moscow colloquialism Sikhlersha. In St. Petersburg she had a store near Gorokhovaya Street, and in Moscow - on Bolshaya Dmitrovka. She dressed the high society of Russia and her wives
celebrities.
One of Sickler’s regular clients was Natalie Pushkina, who loved to order toilets from her, and once gave a hat from Sickler as a gift to the wife of Pavel Nashchokin, Pushkin’s friend. From the poet’s letters it is known that the milliner more than once pestered him for his debts. They said that Pushkin paid Sickler for his wife’s toilets an amount almost greater than the fee for “The History of the Pugachev Rebellion,” and after Pushkin’s death, Sickler’s guardianship compensated Sickler for another 3 thousand of his debts.
High society ordered ballgowns from Sickler in the year when Nicholas I visited Moscow, for which the milliner earned 80 thousand a month. There were also incidents. Sometimes poor but gentle husbands spoiled their loved ones with great financial effort
the wives wore a dress from Sickler, but it turned out to be so luxurious that it was impossible to appear in it for the evening in the company of their circle, and for visits it was necessary to sew a new, simpler dress. M.E. Saltykov-Shchedrin especially liked to be sarcastic about such husbands - his own wife ordered dresses for herself and her daughter only from Paris, and the wife’s “acquisitive appetites” greatly upset the satirist.

Sickler's successors were two Moscow milliners. The first was the “French artist” Madame Dubois, who had the best store on Bolshaya Dmitrovka with an elegant round hall, where there were always the best hats and not in display cases, but in cabinets - for connoisseurs.
Sickler's second successor from the 1850s was the famous Madame Minangua: her fame as the best milliner in Moscow did not fade until the revolution. Madame had luxury stores both on Bolshaya Dmitrovka and on Kuznetsky Most, which were dedicated exclusively to the latest Parisian fashions. Ladies' dresses, trousseaus, lingerie and elegantly decorated corsets were made here. It was the largest and most expensive company in old Moscow ordering capricious ladies' dresses, even at the time when they appeared in abundance
stores of ready-made European clothing.
The most important were the ball gowns, in which a woman appeared before the eyes of the capital's elite - according to etiquette, even in the most luxurious dress it was impossible to appear more than 3-4 times. The cheapest were girls' dresses: for the most pampered, it cost 80 silver rubles, light, with flounces, made of silk or gauze. The lady paid 200 silver rubles for the fabric alone for this toilet, and hundreds more rubles for the dress itself. An incredible luxury, which, contemporaries sighed, really should have been limited by some kind of law.
Ladies' outfits of the 18th and early 20th centuries.
Pictures enlarge when clicked



Moscow milliners of the 19th century.

From time immemorial, Odessa has also been known in Europe as a trendsetter; as Pushkin wrote about it, it was originally a European city. For this reason, local ladies flaunted themselves here and amazed visiting provincials with the most elegant style and finest weaving of French straw hats from Madame Moulis or Victoria Olivier on Deribasovskaya in the Frapoli house, exquisite, latest fashion toilets from Adele Martin's stores on Italianskaya, now Pushkinskaya Street, Mrs. Palmer or
Suzanne Pomer. And Madame Lobadi, the owner of a chic salon on Richelieuskaya, periodically even invited special consultants from Paris itself, from whom customers could always “have all the news
Maud".
With the construction of an extensive shopping complex in 1842, which Odessa residents who visited the French capital soon began to call Palais Royal, the fashion store of Maria Ivanovna Stratz moved there. Opened in pre-Pushkin times and then existing for many years, this store became famous far beyond the borders of Odessa and for a long time had no similar store in almost the entire South. It's not surprising
it was, because there was literally everything there that only the most capricious female soul anything: ready-made outfits, woolen fabrics, Dutch linen, Lyon silks, French shawls, lace, gloves of unprecedented beauty, heavy velvet of all kinds of colors and the finest cambric, which seemed to tremble with one breath...

10:10 07/04/2012

The development of fashion in the 1910s of the 20th century was largely determined by global events, the main of which was the First World War 1914-1918. The changing living conditions and worries that fell on women's shoulders required, first of all, convenience and comfort in clothing. The financial crisis associated with the war also did not contribute to the popularity of luxurious dresses made from expensive fabrics. However, as often happens, difficult times created an even greater demand for beautiful clothes: women, not wanting to put up with the circumstances, showed miracles of ingenuity in searching for fabrics and new styles. As a result, the second decade of the 20th century was remembered for models that combined elegance and convenience, and the appearance of the legendary Coco Chanel on the fashion horizon.

At the beginning of the second decade of the twentieth century, Paul Poiret remained the main dictator in the fashion world. In 1911, the women's trousers and culotte skirts he created created a sensation. The fashion designer continued to popularize his work through social events and various trips. Poiret celebrated the creation of the Arabian Nights collection with a luxurious reception, and later in 1911 he opened his own school of decorative and applied arts, Ecole Martin. The fashion revolutionary also continued to publish books and catalogs with his products. At the same time, Poiret went on a world tour, which lasted until 1913. During this time, the artist showed his models in London, Vienna, Brussels, Berlin, Moscow, St. Petersburg and New York. All his shows and trips were accompanied by articles and photographs in newspapers, so news about the French couturier spread all over the world.

Poiret was not afraid of experiments and became the first fashion designer to create his own fragrance - Rosina perfume, named after eldest daughter. In 1914, with the outbreak of the First World War, the House of Paul Poiret ceased its activities, and the artist attempted to return to the world of fashion only in 1921.

This, however, turned out to be a failure, largely due to the fact that Poiret's luxurious and exotic style was supplanted by the revolutionary models of Coco Chanel.

Emancipation and the first practical models

The first step in the transition to “comfortable” fashion was the final disappearance of corsets, voluminous hats, and “limping” skirts from women’s wardrobes. In the early 1910s, new models came into use, the main one among them was the “spinning top” with a high waist, wide hips, draping and narrow at the ankles. As for the length, until 1915 the hem of the dresses reached the ground. Skirts were shortened a little: models that reached “only” to the instep of the leg came into fashion. Dresses were often worn with capes, and dresses with trains were also popular. A V-shaped neckline was common, not only on the chest, but also on the back.

The craving for practicality affected not only clothes, but everything female image. In the second decade of the twentieth century, ladies for the first time stopped doing intricate, elegant hairstyles and opened their necks. Short haircuts have not yet become as widespread as in the 1920s, but the fashion for long, beautifully styled hair on the head has become a thing of the past.

At that time, operetta was extremely popular throughout Europe, and the dancers who performed on stage became role models, including when it came to clothing. Along with operetta, cabaret, and especially tango dance, was loved by the public. A stage costume was invented especially for tango - Turkish bloomers, as well as draped skirts, in the cuts of which the dancers’ legs were visible. Such outfits were used only on stage, but in 1911 the Parisian fashion house "Drecol and Bechoff" offered ladies so-called trouser dresses and trouser skirts. The conservative part of French society did not accept the new outfits, and those girls who dared to appear in them in public were accused of denying generally accepted moral standards. Women's trousers, which first appeared in the early 1910s, were negatively received by the public and only became popular much later.

In 1913, performances by emancipants began in Europe, protesting against clothing that restricted movement, insisting on the appearance of simple-cut and comfortable models. At the same time, there was still a slight but noticeable influence of sports on everyday fashion. The abundant stripes and decorations, complex appliques and details that decorated the clothes began to disappear. Women allowed themselves to bare their arms and legs. In general, the cut of clothes has become much looser; shirts and shirt-dresses have come into fashion.

All these trends were typical for casual clothing, while dressy models were still in the style of the 1910s. High-waisted dresses with elements were still popular in the world oriental style, models with a narrow bodice and a wide skirt with frills. The panier skirt, the name of which is translated from French as “basket,” came into fashion. The model had a barrel-shaped silhouette - the hips were wide, but the skirt was flat in front and back. In a word, going out outfits were distinguished by greater elegance and coservatism, and some fashion designers sought to preserve the trends observed in the fashion of the 1900s. The most notable among artists adhering to conservative models was Erte.

Loud debut of the great Erte

The most popular fashion designer Erte, whose name is associated with luxurious and feminine images of the second decade of the twentieth century, did not recognize the trend towards practicality and functionality.

© provided by the Internet agency "Bi-group"

Sketch of a dress by fashion designer Erte (Roman Petrovich Tyrtov)

Roman Petrovich Tyrtov was born in 1892 in St. Petersburg, and at the age of twenty he moved to Paris. Erte took the pseudonym from the initial letters of his first and last name. Even as a child, the boy showed a penchant for drawing and design. From the age of 14, he attended classes at the Academy of Fine Arts in St. Petersburg, and after moving to the French capital, he went to work at the House of Paul Poiret. His high-profile debut in Paris was the creation of costumes for the play "Minaret" in 1913. The very next year, when Erté left the House of Poiret, his models were extremely popular not only in France, but also in the theater companies of Monte Carlo, New York, Chicago and Glindbourne. Music halls literally flooded the talented designer with orders, and Erte created costumes for such productions as Irving Berlin's "Music Box Repertoire," George White's "Scandals" and "Mary of Manhattan." Each image created by the couturier was his own creation: in his work, Erte never relied on the experience of his colleagues and predecessors.

The most recognizable image created by the fashion designer was a mysterious beauty, wrapped in luxurious furs, with many accessories, the main ones of which were long strings of pearls and beads, topped with an original headdress. Erte created his outfits, inspired by ancient Egyptian and ancient Greek mythology, as well as Indian miniatures and, of course, Russian classical art. Denied non-fitted silhouette and abstract geometric patterns, Erte in 1916 became the chief artist of the Harpers Bazaar magazine, with which he was offered a contract by tycoon William Hearst.

© RIA Novosti Sergey Subbotin

Cover of the magazine "Women's Business"

Becoming popular even before the outbreak of the First World War, Erte was one of the trendsetters until his death in 1990 at the age of 97.

War and fashion

The dispute between adherents of the old style and supporters of practical clothing was decided by the First World War, which began in 1914. Women, forced to do all men's work, simply could not afford to dress up in long bouffant skirts and corsets.

During this period, functional details that referred to military style began to appear in clothing - patch pockets, turn-down collars, jackets with laces, lapels and metal buttons, which girls wore with skirts. Then they came into fashion women's suits. The difficult years brought with them another reform: comfortable-to-wear knitwear began to be used in tailoring, from which jumpers, cardigans, scarves and hats were created. Everyday dresses, the length of which became shorter and reached only to the calves, were worn with high, rough lace-up boots, under which women wore leggings.

In general, this time can be described as a spontaneous search for new forms and styles, a passionate desire to get away from all fashion standards that were imposed by fashion houses in the 1900s. Trends literally replaced one another. A common feature of wartime silhouettes was the freedom of cut, sometimes even the “sagging” of the clothes. Now the outfits did not emphasize all the curves female figure, but, on the contrary, they hid it. Even belts no longer fit around the waist, not to mention sleeves, blouses and skirts.

The war, perhaps, made women much more independent than all the emancipatory speeches characteristic of the early 1910s. First, women took over jobs that had previously been done by men: they took positions in factories, hospitals and offices. In addition, many of them ended up in auxiliary military services, where working conditions dictated practicality as the main criterion when choosing clothes. The girls wore uniforms, khaki sports shirts and caps. Perhaps for the first time, women felt their independence and importance, and became confident in their strengths and intellectual abilities. All this allowed the ladies to direct the development of fashion themselves.

© Illustration from the book "Style Icons. History of Fashion of the 20th Century. Edited by G. Buxbaum. St. Petersburg. "Amphora", 2009"

Dartey "Military crinoline", drawing 1916.

During the war, when almost everyone fashionable houses were closed, women voluntarily got rid of all imposed canons, freeing their clothes from unnecessary details. The practical and functional style took root and became so popular that fashion houses that resumed their activities after the war were forced to follow new trends, and attempts to restore popularity to the previously popular crinoline and uncomfortable “narrow” styles ended in failure.

Of particular note, however, are the “military crinolines” that appeared at the same time and became extremely popular. These full skirts differed from their predecessors in that to maintain their shape, they used not the usual hoops, but a large number of petticoats. Sewing such outfits required a lot of fabric and, despite the low quality, the price of “military crinolines” was quite high. This did not stop voluminous skirts from becoming one of the main hits of wartime, and later this model became a symbol of the romantic style caused by general protest and fatigue from war. Unable to resist the mastered practical style, fashion designers decided to bring originality and beauty to simple-style outfits through details and decoration. Haute couture dresses were richly decorated with pearls, ribbons, appliqués and beads.

The impact of the First World War on fashion cannot be described simply by the emerging trend towards practicality. Soldiers who participated in battles on foreign territories brought home new exotic fabrics as trophies, as well as never-before-seen shawls, scarves and jewelry from Tunisia and Morocco. Fashion designers getting to know cultures different countries, absorbed ideas and implemented new styles, patterns and finishes in tailoring.

After the end of the war, when Savor things got better, and balls began to be held in Paris again, many women abandoned the costumes that had become familiar and returned to pre-war fashion. However, this period did not last long - after the war, a completely new stage in fashion began, the greatest influence on which at that time was Coco Chanel.

Men's style from Chanel

Coco Chanel

Coco Chanel, by her own admission, spent her entire life trying to adapt a men's suit to the needs and lifestyle of a modern woman.

Coco Chanel began her journey in the fashion world in 1909, when she opened her own hat shop in Paris. Rumors about the new designer quickly spread throughout the French capital, and the very next year Coco was able to launch not only hats, but also clothes, opening a store at 21 rue Cambon, and then her own fashion house in the resort of Biarritz. Despite the high cost of clothing and the simplicity of the cut, which was unusual for that time, Chanel’s models rapidly gained popularity, and the designer gained a wide clientele.

The main task of the clothes that fashion designers previously offered to women was to emphasize the wasp waist and highlight the chest, creating unnatural curves. Coco Chanel was thin, tanned and athletic, and the style common at that time did not suit her at all - no clothing could have made a girl out of her figure even if she wanted to." hourglass"But she was an ideal model for her own outfits. “Shackled in a corset, her breasts out, her butt exposed, cinched at the waist as if she was cut into two parts... maintaining such a woman is the same as managing real estate," she said Coco.

Promoting comfort and unisex style, the designer created very simple dresses and skirts, characterized by clean lines and a lack of embellishment. The girl, without hesitation, swept aside unnecessary details and unnecessary accessories in search of the ideal model that did not restrict movement, and at the same time allowed a woman to remain a woman. Regardless of public opinion, she cleverly introduced elements into women's clothing men's style, independently setting an example of the correct use of simple outfits. “Once I put on a man’s sweater, just like that, because I was cold... I tied it with a scarf (at the waist). That day I was with the British. None of them noticed that I was wearing a sweater...” Chanel recalled. This is how her famous sailor suits with a deep neckline and turn-down collar and “jockey” leather jackets appeared.

When creating clothes, Chanel used simple materials - cotton, knitwear. In 1914 she shortened women's skirt. At the outbreak of World War I, Coco designed practical sweaters, blazers, shirtdresses, blouses and suits. It was Chanel who contributed to the popularization of pajamas, and in 1918 even created women's pajamas in which you could go down to the bomb shelter.

Closer to 1920, Coco, like many artists of that time, became interested in Russian motifs. This line in Chanel’s work was developed already at the beginning of the third decade of the twentieth century.

The second decade of the twentieth century, despite all the hardships and adversities, became a turning point in the evolution of fashion - it was in the 1910s that artists began to active search new forms that can give women freedom without depriving them of grace. War-induced fashion reforms and trends post-war years became decisive in the development of the industry in subsequent decades.

Blogger Donna Julietta writes: “Today I was looking through various retro photographs that depicted the history of people’s lives and then I thought that it would be nice to look at photographs that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how interesting fashionistas dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review of fashion by decade. Let me make a reservation right away that I will not give examples of women who were popular at a certain time; it is better to pay special attention to them. Let's just discuss fashion."

(Total 43 photos)

Post sponsor:: For every taste. Huge collection.
Source: Zhzhurnal/ make-your-style

Let's start with the 10s of the 20th century.

1. Corsets have been holding women back for years, making their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and making life harder. The inability to inhale and exhale once again, constant illnesses due to too tightly tightened “shells” - all this made the corset, although a significant item of the era, very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally exhaled - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of a simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses came into fashion - that is why the tenth years are remembered as the years of “liberation” of women from the oppression of one of the most inconvenient items of clothing, and Paul Poiret became a real savior for ladies of high society.

2. In the tens, Russian chic was in fashion - the “Russian Seasons”, which the famous Sergei Diaghilev brought to Paris, were a huge success. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could adopt art high fashion from Parisian women.

3. It was then that all the now familiar attributes of “chic life” in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.

We smoothly move on to the fashion of the 20s

4. During this period, sports and male sports figures entered fashion with confident steps, and female forms gradually began to lose relevance and popularity. The ideal is a thin lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called a fashion reformer and revolutionary of this period. Along with her in these times fashionable clothes created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille, the fur fashion house Jacques Heim" and others.

5. Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 20s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of decorations and embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called “Art Deco”, and came from the name of the exhibition of modern decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

6. It was a style of decorating and adorning things. Decorative elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

7. Shoes trimmed with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. "Art Deco" is an eclectic style in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with the geometric forms of cubism; non-traditional inexpensive and simple materials are mixed with expensive traditional materials of good quality.

8. Such a combination of incompatible things, mixed in one style.

9. As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:

— the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
- a fashionable straight-cut coat tapering towards the bottom and with a fur collar;
— pajama trousers and pajamas are in fashion, which were worn to the beach at that time;
- the first swimsuits for women appeared - a revolution in beach fashion;
- clothes were made from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
— sporty style is in fashion, not only trousers, but also shorts are appearing;
- the appearance of the classic Chanel little black dress;

30s fashion

10. In these times, the cutting of clothes has become more complex. The quality of mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing has improved markedly. Hollywood is a trendsetter in the USA. But even here, companies began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These companies distributed new fashion models in millions of copies.

11. Long skirts became the standard of fashion during the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to offer long dresses and skirts, the waistline of which was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses lengthened their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached mid-calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends independently lengthened their clothes. They sewed on wedges and various frills.

12. A very popular piece of clothing in the 1930s was the women's street suit, which came in a wide variety of variations. Outerwear - coats and jackets - were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

13. Each type of clothing, including a suit, was characterized by a wide variety of shaped lines and finishes. The cut of suits became more complex and began to rely on geometry, giving the silhouette clarity.

14. Decorative details and decorations were widely used in the costume. A hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in the same color scheme. Accessories were selected very strictly. As a rule, they were black or brown, and in summer they were white.

15. Accessories selected in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years could not afford anything else except a hat or a handbag.

40s fashion

16. The dominant fashion trend of the early 40s was multi-layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of vertical stripes, and puffed sleeves. It is worth noting that at that time, striped clothing was the most popular. As war broke out and the world became militarized, fashion in the 1940s underwent significant changes. Women no longer have time to think about makeup and replenishing their wardrobe.

17. During this period appearance outfits were significantly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics are no longer used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

18. Floral designs are coming back into fashion: ornaments and small flowers have become the main decoration of fabrics and dresses made from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to be introduced into fashion. The military style, which is still popular today, became a discovery of the war period.

19. At the same time, a new shoe model was released: shoes with stiletto heels.

20. Also new was the production of turtleneck blouses; these models with a high turtleneck deservedly received recognition from the fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

22. In the post-war years, social differences became noticeably worse. Wives again turned into a symbol of the well-being of their spouses, as a kind of showcase for others. A mandatory ritual for every woman is visiting a hair salon and applying makeup. The ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully prepared already early in the morning: with a perfect hairstyle, in heels and makeup, stand at the stove or vacuum the carpet.

23. Even in the Soviet Union, where the lifestyle was significantly different from the Western one, it was customary to have your hair styled at a hairdresser or permed at least once a week, which also began to become fashionable with particular rapidity.

24. 50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, shoulder-flared silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, there were special requirements for the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

25. To meet these standards, women wore constriction corsets, placed fabric or cotton wool in their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Klara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

26. Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. A fashionable and stylish woman in the style of the 50s resembled a flower in silhouette: a fluffy floor-length skirt, under which a multi-layered petticoat was worn, high heels stiletto heels, nylon stockings with a seam. Stockings were a must-have accessory to complete the look and were extremely expensive. But women went to great lengths to look attractive and feel like beauties who follow fashion trends. It was difficult to buy fabrics at that time; no more than a certain amount of them was sold per person, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt to fit the “new silhouette”, it took from nine to forty meters of material!

60s fashion

The legendary 60s are the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. The new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. In 1959, the French film “Babette Goes to War” starring Brigitte Bardot was released. leading role. A casually tousled hairstyle with a backcomb, despite the fact that it takes fashionistas a lot of time to create it, is becoming super popular.

27. Accessories became very popular: necklaces made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, “macro” glasses that covered half of the face.

28. The most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born in London - the miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, the legendary Mary Quant showed her first collection of mini-length items. A new style, called “London style,” very quickly conquered young people around the world.

29. The 60s - the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics are widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, as they do not wrinkle and are easy to wash; in addition, they are cheap.

30. The fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, costume jewelry. Tall ones are becoming super popular Women's boots low-heeled, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go-go. Boots became widespread with the emergence of fashion for mini lengths and the dance style of the same name.

Fashion of the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Young people opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, hippies emphasized their rejection of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately casual and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric bucket bags slung over their shoulders. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair- symbolize freedom.

70s fashion

31. In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction; everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

32. The motto of the 70s was the expression “Anything is possible!” The couturiers presented several styles for progressive and active young people to choose from, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

33. Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were A-line skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, shirt dresses.

34. In addition, it should be noted that clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe has emerged, consisting of the required number of things that can be combined with each other. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

35. Among the designers in the 70s, Sonia Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created convenient, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses made of woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

36. The fashion of the 80s intertwined retro images, rethought by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance trends, and the ongoing boom in sports.

37. Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, breakdancing, snowboarding, skateboarding, rollerblading, step aerobics - all these phenomena affected the style of the decade.

38. The list of iconic items of the decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari style clothing, kimono-cut sleeves, “ bat"and raglan, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, distressed denim, so-called Varenka, black leather jackets, Lurex, massive jewelry, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of “wet hair,” cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair of decorative colors, such as “eggplant”, highlighting with “feathers”. A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.

The massiveness of the 1980s can be described as excess. Everything is, as it were, “too” - too narrow, too voluminous, too flashy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decorative elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

39. The 90s style in clothing, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to choosing clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your image changes, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main call of the nineties is “be who you are!” In those days, denim clothes were given special importance - only the lazy did not wear them. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called “denim”, since every person had more than one copy of a similar thing.

40. In the nineties, unisex fashion spread throughout the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

41. The nineties were the time of sneakers and flats. This unisex style is very popular with large Italian and American companies, such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. Costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when, along with strict asceticism, the costume contains deliberate theatricality with a bright range of colors. Fashion changes depending on social orientation and territoriality, so in Europe bohemians prefer conceptual designer clothes.

42. The main fashion emphasis of the nineties is not on clothes, but on its owner. A fashionable look is created by a slender figure with tanned or milky-white skin. Body culture is flourishing as in the times of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and fashionistas visit not only sports clubs, but also beauty salons and even use the services of plastic surgery. Supermodels from fashion catwalks are becoming role models; television and fashion magazines have made a significant contribution to this.

43. Well then. This concludes the review. I would like to say that of all times, my preferences are closer to the 30s, 50s and 70s. In general, everything new is long forgotten old.

Development of women's costume, changes in style 1900-1920.

HISTORY of fashion at the beginning of the 20th century.