Daylily storage until planting. Daylilies - preparation for winter

It has begun... It's still February on the calendar, and the first plants have already begun to arrive in stores selling planting material. First, timidly and timidly, gladioli, dahlias, buttercups, lilies and begonias. But the closer spring, the wider the river of supplies. And now hostas, daylilies, geraniums, tradescantia, astilbes, roses and much, much more. If you don't buy now, you might not buy at all. Unfortunately, this is true. Some varieties come in limited quantities, some simply do not wait for us and quietly die from heat, humidity or any other reasons.

So we bought a plant. And the spine started to grow, and in the yard - a deep minus. And planting in a pot will not correct the situation - the plant sprouts, the first leaves ... even buds - and dies.

And this is what happened - growth began due to the reserves accumulated in the tissues, and the roots did not “turn on” - a “forcing effect” turned out, something like the regrowth of shoots of cut roses in a vase.

Be careful when purchasing anemones, geyhera, geleniums, Siberian and Japanese irises, bathing suits, poppies, monards, hellebore, phlox, echinacea long before planting - it is much more difficult to keep them alive.
For planting material of these plants, cold storage is especially important (at a temperature not higher than +5 °C) and the so-called " cold start": landing in the ground at the most early dates preferably under cover.

Phlox and echinacea, according to experience, it is better to buy in general in summer or autumn, with a closed root system (in pots). The same applies to lumbago - this plant does not tolerate transplantation, and storage in the form of open roots is completely contraindicated for it.

Anemones should not be bought in the spring at all. And if you already managed to - a cold start is vital for them! Plant the plants in a container in a slightly damp substrate, and bring it into the garden - warm the earth with boiling water, drop the container and fill it with sawdust and thoroughly with snow.

A cold start is also required for delphinium and aconite.

What can you buy without fear?

Although the summer season is still far away, feel free to buy hosta rhizomes, daylilies, astilba, bergenia, stonecrop (sedum), lily bulbs. These plants will tolerate home "overexposure" well. Even if you don’t have room in the fridge or they have already begun to unfold their leaves, you can plant them in pots and put them on a bright, cool windowsill. True, many hosts in room conditions do not acquire the leaf color characteristic of the variety, so final conclusions about regrading will only have to be made after the plant has acclimatized in the garden. Yes, and plants with overgrown leaves will have to be planted in the ground late, after the end of all frosts, besides carefully shading.

Fairly undemanding in storage and bearded irises. But their plots require drier conditions, and in dampness they can rot.

Waiting for spring. Planting material is most often stored in a refrigerator or basement at a low positive temperature.
Rhizomes are shifted with slightly moistened peat, coconut fiber, sawdust, light earth, and even better - sphagnum moss and placed in loosely covered plastic bags or plastic containers. Plants with small, thin, quickly drying roots can be planted in pots with soil, but they are stored in the same conditions. A very good solution would be to take planting material frost-resistant plants to the cottage and bury in the snow. Choose a shady place in the garden where there is no water in the spring, and dig the snow to the ground. Remove the rhizomes from the package, lay them on the ground, cover with peat, earth or sawdust, and on top with snow. But this can only be done with completely “sleeping” plants, with unopened buds. If the leaves begin to unfold, negative temperatures are contraindicated for them.
After the snow melts, plant perennials in the ground. It is useful to use film or other shelters.

About the storage of some perennials in more detail:

daylilies

root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
Daylilies are perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly damp substrate, it is better to store wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag. There is no need to plant daylilies at home in pots with a sprout length of up to 10 cm (personal experience). But if the sprouts are longer, then the daylily can be planted in a pot and grown as indoor plant, as this unpretentious plant easily tolerates home conditions. The only difficulty is that it is possible to plant a plant from a pot in the ground only after the threat of return frosts has passed, gradually accustoming it to sunlight. (For Ukraine - after May 25.) After planting in a permanent place, the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight.
planted in open ground daylilies that were stored in the refrigerator after purchase can be at the end of April (according to the weather, focusing on the daylilies already in the garden, sheltering from frost plastic bottle, lutrasil).

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - cut rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents. They are perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly damp substrate, better stored wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag.
There is no need to plant hostas at home in pots with a sprout length of up to 5 cm (personal experience). Personal experience: were sent to the pit when the earth was still frozen, poured with boiling water to dig a hole. I poured coconut substrate at the bottom of the pit, laid the hostas, covered it with coconut substrate, then earth. Perfectly overexposed from the end of March to May.
It can be planted in open ground at the end of April (according to the state of the plant, the smaller the sprout, the earlier it can be planted; according to the weather, focusing on the hosts already in the garden, covering it from frost with a plastic bottle, lutrasil).
Prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. Depending on the size of the variety / type of hosta, the root neck is buried from 1.0 to 5.0 cm during planting.
If necessary, you can plant them in a pot at home, as the hosts easily tolerate the warm and dry air of the room. But we must keep in mind that such plants will have to be kept at home until the beginning of June, and only then planted in open ground, gradually hardening the plants.

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - cut rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents (Epinom).
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on the windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development needs low temperature, and lower at night and slightly higher during the day. It is advisable to keep the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag before planting in the ground.
If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then you need a "cold start". We plant in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 earth, put it in the refrigerator. Watch for leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not flood! We plant in open ground in May, be sure to shade the planted plants.

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - trim rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on the windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. It is advisable to keep the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag before planting in the ground. If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then you need a "cold start". We plant in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 earth, put it in the refrigerator. Watch for leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not flood!
However, it is better to take it to the dacha as soon as possible and dig it in (if the earth has not yet thawed, then you can use purchased land for this).

What you should pay attention to when examining: remove loose scales (if they are hard and not rotten, they can be used for reproduction).
If there is rot, remove to healthy tissue. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
Overexposure: Perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator. Use a preparation recommended for preplant treatment / storage. Dry. Place in a dry substrate, wrap in newspapers and store in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. It is advisable to place the bulbs with the sprout up, then even if the lilies begin to grow, the sprout will not be bent. If the sprout exceeds 10-15 cm, it can be planted in a pot. It is only necessary to remember that lilies grow roots at a temperature not higher than 10-15 degrees. Therefore, the pot must be placed on a glazed balcony or in the refrigerator. It is possible to plant a lily from a pot in open ground only after the threat of returning frosts has passed. Lilies stored in the refrigerator are planted in May.

Clematis:

Clematis with 1-2 eyes or, if the purchased clematis is frail, planted in long pots without a bottom, usually use rose pots. You can use pots for clematis, those that are larger. Sometimes I plant at home in not very large pots, and when I bring them to the dacha, I plant them in large ones. Why do I plant in a pot without a bottom, but because only for a single season, the roots of clematis in good conditions out of the pot. If the pots have a bottom, then as a rule I get a twisted lump of roots, some of the roots come out of the drainage holes and when digging these roots break off, and the tangled ones have to be untangled when planting, which is not good, because in the fall I try to transfer the clematis from the pot to a permanent place rather than replant.
So, I planted it in a pot (I buy land, if it is not possible to buy, you can use the land from the garden) and I dig the pots into the ground in a stationary greenhouse. If there is no stationary greenhouse or there is no place for pots, then you can build a greenhouse from arcs. The main condition is that there is constant humidity, warmth and there is no stagnation of water at the roots.
That's when clematis grow by leaps and bounds and in one season you can get decent bushes already with several buds or even sprouts. I never put pots on the ground, I always dig them in, so there is more opportunity to keep moisture inside the pot at the roots.
Peonies - a separate conversation.
About buying peonies. The life cycle of these plants is such that transplantation and division are best tolerated in the fall. Rhizomes planted in spring take root worse, lag behind in growth, and are more susceptible to disease. In fairness, it must be said that it is not easy to completely ruin the peony root - they are very unpretentious - but on the other hand, you can easily lose a year, or even two, before full flowering. Experienced pion growers advise immediately planting the rhizomes acquired in the spring in large (3-8 l) pots and placing or dropping them in the garden, and in August-September, at the optimal time for peonies, plant them in a permanent place

When shopping, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Many garden centers are expanding sales of perennials this year. At the end of spring, it will be possible to purchase new items already grown up in containers, in a season convenient for planting, and not turn the apartment into a jungle.
• Plants for collectors are not suitable for spontaneous purchases: growing Persian hazel grouse, cyclamens, Japanese irises, agapanthus, ophiopogon, knifofii requires special effort.
• Do not buy everything, no matter how beautiful and alluring the photo looks. Before going to the mall, make a "wish list" in advance and take a pocket guide or plant catalog with you. And, control yourself!
• Do not buy rare varieties at attractively low prices from unverified sellers. Yellow and striped peonies can't be cheap. The high cost of such varieties is the world norm (they are popular and still rare).
• Do not believe bright labels promising "blue and black" peonies - there are none in nature. Also, there is no lily tree, blue and black imperial hazel grouse, pure blue phlox and blue roses , red-leaved host .
• In case you have any complaints about the quality of the planting material, you will need a receipt from the purchase and packaging. Save them before boarding.

Rhizomes, delenki, seedlings (hereinafter referred to as "roots") are most often sold in plastic blisters or in bags with a cardboard accompanying label. The bag should contain: the name of the variety (including in Latin, it will help to accurately determine the species), short description varieties, quantity in pieces, planting instructions, quality control mark, ratio of crop to light. Information about winter hardiness should include either the growing area or the maximum minus temperature in degrees.

The packaging should not be damaged, the filler (peat, sawdust, shavings) should be slightly damp. Preference should be given to:

• dormant plants, without regrown pale shoots;
• make sure that the roots are healthy, elastic, clean;
• they should not be overdried (similar to a herbarium that does not show signs of life), wrinkled or rotten;
• obvious evidence of disease - mold, suspicious wet spots, rot or slippery areas;
• growth buds, indicating that the plant is alive, should be visible: hosta, delphiniums, brunner, astilbe, peonies, phlox, dahlia, ;
• if you buy bulbs lilies , make sure that they have healthy roots on the bottom, a dense bulb, there are no spots and rot on the scales, the sprout is small.
• in gladioli, young corms are rounded rather than flat.

After the purchase, the task comes down to one thing - to maximize the dormant state of plants in apartment conditions. It is preferable to store dormant plants (with non-germinated buds) before planting at a low positive temperature.

Keep the roots of most perennials in commercial substrate at 1-3°C until planting. They can be buried after the snow has melted into the so-called "April mud". Plants that have not awakened and have just begun to grow are dug obliquely into the ground and covered with lutrasil.

1. The plant is sleeping. We store in the refrigerator (in the package). Only unawakened perennials are suitable for storage in the refrigerator.

Inspect the roots - if necessary, remove the damaged parts, treat with a fungicide ("Skor", "Topaz"). If the peat is dry, cover the roots with a slightly moistened one, place them in a bag in which holes have been made in advance, and put them in the vegetable compartment.

Great for landing: hosta, daylily, astilba, bearded iris, sedum, tradescantia, oak sage, meadowsweet, bergenia.
Make sure that the rhizome does not rot: in astrantia, bergenia, brunners, dicentres, lungwort, liatris, ferns, rogersia, tradescantia.

2. The plant woke up. We store in the refrigerator (in a pot).

If the kidneys wake up, you will have to put them in a container and put them in the refrigerator: aconite, phlox, Siberian iris, hellebore, delphinium, geyhera, tiarella, echinacea, ashen geranium.

To start the growing season, these plants need a dormant period at 3-5 ° C, the so-called "cold start", so in May they are planted in the ground already grown in cool conditions.

It is important to consider: before planting delenok in pots, the root system is slightly shortened - after pruning, active growth of lateral roots begins. Suction root hairs are formed on them, on which the proper nutrition and development of plants depend.

3. The plant woke up. We keep it on the windowsill.

If the buds have hatched in the refrigerator, and it is too early to plant the plant in a flower bed, plant it in loose, non-nutritious soil and, if possible, place the pots either on a glazed loggia or on the brightest window.
Feel free to follow this procedure.: hostas, daylilies, dicentra. They are planted in open ground after the threat of repeated frosts disappears, gradually accustoming them to bright light and temperature changes on the balcony.

If you bought a peony in the spring, do not hope to reanimate a hopeless peony delenka (desired, but the last specimen in the store) with the help of growth stimulants - it is better to choose a healthy plant more carefully or refuse to buy. The herbaceous peony has two periods of growth of suction roots - in autumn (August-September) and in spring (April-May). The optimal time for their division and planting is August. In the spring - only involuntarily. But rare novelties can be obtained just at the wrong time - in February-March. Later, it is better not to buy peonies with a bare root system (delenki).

What to do: plant plants in 2-liter pots and keep "on a starvation diet" in a cool dark place (cellar, basement, glazed loggia, garage) until warm weather, only slightly moistening the substrate. After the threat of frost has passed, dig pots of peonies in the garden until autumn. You can plant them in the spring, but try not to disturb the earthen ball so as not to damage the suction roots.

Tree-like peonies with an open root system in April in most shopping centers will already have overdried buds and roots, so it’s better not to delay buying them. Carefully inspect the grafting site so that there are no signs of decay, plant it in the same way as grassy peonies. If the buds do not wake up, the plant should be stored in a cool, dark place - for example, in a refrigerator at 0 ... + 2 ° С. If you woke up and began to grow, expose the pot of peony to the light. Ideal for a cool window sill.

If you bought Siberian iris in spring, inspect the roots for rot, spray carefully, avoiding water on the leaf fan. Plant the plants in pots, put them in the refrigerator and keep them "on dry rations". Replace watering by spraying the top layer of the substrate - as needed. Since the leaf fan should not be waterlogged, cover it with your hand to keep moisture out. For rooting in free ground, "Siberians" need a long period of sufficient humidity without temperature drops. In places where drought sets in quickly, it is preferable to plant them in the fall, and in a cool climate it is possible in the spring, after the snow has melted.

Agapanthus, of course, will decorate any composition, but it is better to grow it in a pot and remove it from the garden for the winter. In open ground, this culture does not hibernate.

Liatris is planted in the spring, but until it grows, it will not show itself in all its glory, so a “hole” will gape in the front composition for a long time.

Storage in the refrigerator does not like mallow, yarrow, mordovniki, eryngium, tansy- before planting in the ground, it is better to keep them on the windowsill in containers.

Plants in the dark discolored shoots may form, which must be gradually accustomed to sunlight. If there are no whitish shoots, take them out to the loggia in the sun, lightly shade with newspaper or paper for several days. If they did appear during the time they were kept in the refrigerator, let the plants get used to the light gradually.

Phlox is not adapted to growing in a container culture, as it does not like overheating of the roots. It is better not to buy it in the spring "in the roots" at all.

It's hard to find a flower bed suburban area where there are no daylilies. These flowers have gained immense popularity among flower growers of all countries due to their beauty, diversity and unpretentiousness. However, even they need, albeit minimal, but proper care autumn and preparation for winter.

Note! Daylilies are not a flowerbed of lilies or its second name, but a completely separate genus of plants (not bulbous, like a lily, but rhizomatous). Do not confuse!

So, the main autumn activities for preparing daylilies for winter include the following:

• removal of faded flower stalks (so that the plant does not waste energy on the ripening of seeds);
• transplant (division and seating);
• top dressing (optional and necessary, if you want to improve flowering for next year);

Autumn fertilizer, i.e. potassium-phosphorus.

• leaf pruning (recommended for everyone);
• mulching and/or shelter (only in cold and snowless regions).

Yes, it's that simple and it won't take long.

Transplanting daylilies after flowering

After the daylilies have faded (around August) - it's time to divide and transplant them.

Interesting! Although daylilies are often transplanted in the spring - in April.

How to divide and plant daylilies after flowering:

• Trim the foliage (or do it after planting).

In order for the plant to take root faster and better in a new place, it should not spend extra precious forces on green mass, therefore the aerial part is always shortened.

• Dig around the bushes around the perimeter and get them out of the ground.
• Divide into several parts, as a rule, into 2-3 large ones or into separate sections.

• Choose a new landing site (optimally sunny).
• Prepare a planting pit (mix garden soil with humus or compost, potash fertilizer, for example, potassium sulfate).
• Water, let the moisture soak in and put the delenka in the center of the pit.

• Fall asleep with earth, water again, let it soak and pour the soil again.

Video: how to grow and propagate daylilies (divide and replant)

Daylily pruning in autumn

Perhaps the autumn pruning of withered foliage is the only recommended activity that everyone should do when preparing daylilies for winter.

Why prune daylilies in the fall

Daylilies are pruned in autumn for the following purposes:

• prevent possible leaf rot (late autumn- at the beginning of winter and early spring during thaws), which can provoke root rot.
• Pruning is good disease and pest prevention, because together with cut leaves, you take out pathogens and pest larvae from the bush.

When to prune daylilies in autumn: the best timing

It is necessary to prune daylilies on the eve of stable sub-zero temperatures or immediately after they are established. Depending on the climate in your area, October-November is a good time.

Important! Do not prune daylilies in the fall ahead of time. The fact is that too early pruning can provoke the growth of the aerial part of the plant - the appearance of new leaves.

How to prune daylilies for the winter

There is nothing difficult in the autumn pruning of daylilies:

• With a sharp pruner, cut off all the leaves at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground.

Important! Just do not cut too short (i.e. without leaving stumps at all - under the root), because. this can provoke the plant to resume growth during periods of thaw.

• Further, all the trimmed foliage must be raked and taken to the compost heap or removed from the site and burned (if the leaves are severely affected by diseases and pests).

Shelter daylilies for the winter

Do I need to cover daylilies for the winter

Most of the perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter, however, daylilies belong to plants with high winter hardiness, so no shelter for them, usually not required. Especially if in your area snowy winters, because snow is the best shelter for many perennials.

However, if the climate of your growing region is characterized by prolonged severe frosts and snow rarely falls, then it is still worth warming the daylilies, especially since if they were planted this fall because they have not yet had time to get stronger and adapt to new conditions environment and may freeze.

How to cover daylilies for the winter

Most often, it will be enough to mulch your daylilies with a layer of 5-8 cm mulch, which can be used as straw, dry leaves, rotted sawdust.

If more serious insulation is required, then you can put spruce branches on top of the mulch or even cover daylilies with non-woven covering material.

Thus, now you know that daylilies are a fairly unpretentious and winter-hardy flower culture, but it still needs some preparation for wintering. Of course, you can let things take their course and not care for the flowers at all in the fall, but you love your daylilies and you don’t want something to happen to them.

Video: how to prepare daylilies for winter

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From the end of January, or even earlier, sales of perennials begin in our stores. Huge selection: roses, lilies, daylilies, irises, peonies, tuberous begonias, echinaceas and others. It's just that your eyes run wide ... Usually, amateur flower growers cannot resist and buy. And only then the question arises - how to save the pre-purchased planting material of flowers!

But what to do if we are put in such conditions. After all, when the planting season comes, there is practically nothing in the shops, or there is something left that you won’t look at without tears. It seems that manufacturers are absolutely indifferent to the fate of grown plants, the pursuit of money is in the first place. After all, they have every opportunity to fully preserve their "live" goods until spring. Their plants are stored in special refrigerators with a certain temperature or in a state of light freezing.

Therefore, if you decide to purchase flower roots, then do not make mistakes at the first stage - purchase only plants recently brought to the store without any flaws!

In nature, a slow change is conceived climatic conditions: deep sleep - a slow gradual awakening, this starts the process of root formation, and then a gradual increase in heat and light, which will start the growth of green mass, which will be fed by already grown roots.

Let's go back to our conditions. Where to begin?

We carefully examine the acquired rhizomes and tubers. We pay the main attention to the condition of the roots, the root collar and the embryos of future sprouts. If damage or the beginning of decay is detected, it must immediately be cleaned to living tissue and processed. To do this, you can use fungicides - "Topaz", "Skor" and others, or fill the wounds with charcoal, or cover them with brilliant green.

If the purchased plants are in good condition and well initially packed (have a slightly damp filler, usually peat or sawdust), then the best option storage - put them in the basement, in a compartment where the temperature does not fall below zero or in the refrigerator in a box for storing vegetables and fruits. It is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the plants!

If the store packaging is of poor quality, wrap the plant in slightly moistened sphagnum moss or peat, wrap it in newspaper and pack it in a plastic bag, puncturing holes in it.

If your plants are damaged or have already sprouted, then after treating the wounds, the plants will have to be planted in pots. So that in the future it is easy and without damaging the root system to plant the grown plants in the ground, before filling the pot with soil, cover it with a net, in which fruits and vegetables are usually sold. Lay it so that the mesh is larger than the height of the pot, when planting the plant, it will be enough to lift the edges of the mesh and remove the plant with a clod of earth from the pot and immediately transfer it to the planting hole. The soil should be light, loose and slightly moist. You can use purchased Violet peat, coconut substrate and add a little garden soil, vermiculite, wood ash. Spill the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin. Plant pots also the first is better time as long as possible to hold in a cool place. When, nevertheless, the plants wake up and sprouts appear, they will have to be moved to a bright place, but preferably a cool one.

Let's try to figure it out individually.

Plants with thick rhizomes, such as dahlias, peonies, irises, lilies, daylilies, gypsophila and the like, are best stored in a cool place until planted in the ground.

Plants that have less thickened roots, such as monards, hostas, astilbes, veronicas and the like, cannot be kept in the refrigerator until planting. After a little holding in the refrigerator, you still have to transplant into pots. But they need an initial cold period to bloom.

Plants with a fibrous rhizome that does not have a moisture reserve should be immediately planted in a pot in slightly moistened soil and put away in a cool place (basement, refrigerator), sometimes very rarely watered a little. This applies to phlox, Siberian irises, geyher, echinacea, aquilegia and the like.

The main reasons for the death of perennials stored until spring are diseases and inappropriate storage temperatures. A warm room atmosphere causes premature growth of the green above-ground part of the plant, which has not woken up. root system unable to provide the plant with moisture and nutrition. By watering the plant, we only provoke the development of rot, and the plant dries up without receiving moisture. And the plant must be accustomed to bright light gradually.

A daylily of incredible beauty is a flower, but, unfortunately, its flowering is so short-lived that you don’t have time to admire its riot of colors. Daylily blooms for only one day, but the plant itself is perennial! By increasing the number of peduncles, flowering can stretch up to 1.5 months, which is good news.

The maximum height of the peduncle of a daylily can reach 1.5 meters. It is used to decorate a velvet lawn, to harmoniously merge the styles of plant compositions and to accentuate winning colors, creating cascades of foliage. They look great as solitary plants, in general they are in harmony with phloxes, loosestrife, lilies, astilbes, irises, ferns, dahlias, bulbs and others. If miniature types of daylilies are used to decorate the garden, then it is better to plant them in rockeries, at the bases of slides made of boulders and stones, and borders.

Daylily cultivation

If daylilies are grown in Russia, then you should pay attention to medium and early flowering species so that the plants have time to develop and prepare for wintering, such as Orange daylily (Hemerocallis aurantiaca), Small daylily (Hemerocallis minor), Middendorf daylily (Hemerocallis middendorfii), Lemon daylily -yellow (Hemerocallis citrina).

Soil for growing daylilies

Plants require ordinary garden soil - loose, rich nutrients. Soddy-podzolic soils should be enriched with peat, sand and mineral fertilizers.

Be careful with nitrogen fertilizers, its excess will become the enemy of flowering.

If the soil is heavy clay and damp, then there is a high probability of rotting of the root system and a predisposition to fungal diseases, especially in cold weather, when moisture stagnates. If the soil is sandy, then, on the contrary, there will not be enough moisture, which will certainly affect the quality of the plants. Fertilize plants with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 5:5:12 and after flowering for the best flowering effect the next year.

Place for planting a daylily

For mass and full flowering of the daylily, the area must be well lit. Shade and partial shade are also solvable, but flowering will be more protracted (for 2-3 weeks), there are fears that the flower will not open (any flower needs sunlight). There should be a lot of space for the development of plants; over time, the bush will grow up to 70 cm in diameter. Seating freely, giving room for development.

How to plant a daylily

Before planting, the plants are soaked for several hours in epin, zircon or other growth stimulant. Weak or rotten roots should be removed and the leaves trimmed to 15 cm, this way you stimulate the plants to produce new roots and leaves. If a place has not yet been chosen for planting a daylily, then you should not be afraid of this, fresh plants in a shaded place can lie for 2-3 weeks (the roots can be buried a little in the sand). Drying the roots of plants in this case is not terrible. Under each plant, prepare a hole with a depth of a shovel bayonet (30 cm), pour peat-humus and potash-forphora mixture in a slide. Spread the plant along this hill in such a way that the root collar is no more than 2.5-5 cm deep. With a deeper planting of the daylily, flowering is sluggish, if at all, the leaves turn yellow and die. But it is not worth planting small, as the plants will be subject to frost. Cover the plant with soil, compact and water. Mulch the ground around the bush with dry peat, fallen pine needles, wood chips to keep moisture in the ground during a particularly dry period and thus the roots will not overheat from the scorching sun.

Purchased planting material is planted in spring or summer, in a lighted area.

Water the daylily rarely and only from below, using a hose or other device to keep the foliage of the plants dry, to reduce the possibility of infection with diseases!

Do not fertilize in the first year of planting a daylily.

Temperature regime for daylily

Winter dormancy in daylilies is short, only 2 months. Over the summer, usually even the growing season does not have time to end. Leaves die faster from frost than from natural process and go green in the winter. Plants survive winter well. Although the daylily is cold-resistant, it is better to cover it with straw, spruce branches, peat or sawdust for the winter.

Starting from mid-April, the plants wake up, the main thing is that the soil thaws and there are no more frosts. If in the summer during the flowering of plants the temperature drops, then the flowers become smaller, do not fully open, the flowering begins to fade and as a result the flowers fade.

How to propagate a daylily

There are several ways to propagate daylilies: seed and vegetative.

Daylily seed propagation method

This method is good for breeding work, since varietal characteristics are lost during seed cultivation. When seed propagation of the daylily, it is important to know that the plants are often pollinated, this leads to the emergence of new hybrid species. Often, it is not possible to grow daylilies by natural seed propagation due to the impossibility of setting seeds, i.e. plants bloom beautifully, but seeds are formed only on some bushes. This is explained by the fact that there were no beneficial insects for pollination.

Artificial pollination is a variant of daylily seed propagation. If sowing is expected in the spring of next year, then they must be stratified for 1.5-2 months at a temperature of 2 to 4°C. Daylily flowering will begin in 2-3 years, it will be weak.

Vegetative method of propagation of daylily

This breeding method is good for breeding varieties and different hybrids, while maintaining all their characteristics.

Usually, daylilies are propagated by dividing the bush when the flowers reduce their flowering quality. Bushes that are no more than 5-6 years old are best suited for this. The division is carried out during the spring regrowth of leaves, around the beginning of May. Transplantation begins when the winter wakes up from hibernation and starts to grow (winter daylily is well preserved under the snow, if the cover was strong enough). You can divide and early autumn. The main thing here is not to hesitate, but to divide the rhizome with a sharp, neat cutting movement of a well-sharpened shovel or knife so that the plant can injure as little as possible and be able to take root.

Pull the plant out of the soil, shake off the ground, you can wash it off with a stream of water. Loose bush species are divided by hand, dense bush species - using a knife with a wide blade or a shovel. Be careful, when dividing the bush, fragile roots can be damaged. Each delenka should have a part of the root neck and a kidney.

If the division of the bush is carried out in an adult daylily, which is about 10 years old or more, then the young roots will be located on the peripheral part, their divisions will quickly take root and develop. If you take delenki from the center, without young growth, then when planting, you will need to cut out weak or rotten parts of the roots, shorten long roots, renew sections on broken roots and plant them for 1-2 years for further development in the garden, and then transplant to a permanent place.

To create decorative greenery, and not flowering, the bush is divided with 3-5 parts of the shoots.

If you want to propagate loose-bush species of daylily, then you can do without digging up the mother bush - you separate the daughter outlets in the 2nd, and preferably the 3rd year, so that they have their roots formed. The division is carried out in the second half of August.

Without digging up a bush, loose-bush daylily species can also be divided in the spring with a well-ground shovel. Mark the line of division, put the shovel in a vertical position and sudden movement cut the legs down. Next, cut off the bottom and remove. The roots going deep will suffer, but this is not a big deal, since you will still need to shorten them before planting. You need to be careful only with young fragile roots! Pour ash or crushed coal on the cut. Do not water the bush so that the root system does not start the process of decay, cover the formed hole with earth, compact well.

Daylily propagation by cuttings

When the daylily blooms, single rosettes of dormant buds form - this will be the breeding material. Stem cuttings are cut, shortening the leaves by 1/3 of the length, and planted in a cold greenhouse. Shade and spray for some time. When the cuttings take root, it will be possible to water.

How to save a daylily until planting

If you bought daylily roots, and the buds are still sleeping, then just store them in the refrigerator or in any cool, dry place. Check their condition periodically. It is necessary to plant a daylily in pots when shoots have begun to grow. On the pots, make notes what kind of variety it is. Put the containers in the brightest place. Water the soil as it dries out so that the plants do not rot.

In early May, the daylily is transplanted into open ground. If the leaves appeared in the room, then most likely they will fall off, but the growth points themselves will be alive.

Daylily diseases and pests

root rot

If in the spring the growth of the daylily stops abruptly, and the leaves that appear turn yellow and can be easily pulled out of the ground, then you can break into the fight against root rot. Dig up the plant, carefully cut off all infected places with a knife, treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and grease the cuts with a fungicide. Dry for a few days and repot elsewhere (unfortunately it won't bloom for another couple of years). It will be possible to plant a plant in the same place no earlier than in 1 year.

Rust

This is a dangerous fungal disease that can be overlooked externally. New daylilies can be infected, so plants purchased or taken from a neighbor are best not planted with your plants nearby. You can reduce the risk of rust disease as follows: remove the outer layers of the leaves to the root neck and cut off the remaining 2.5-5 cm above the root neck. Treat with fungicides. The same procedure can be carried out with delenki.

Arm yourself with a magnifying glass and carefully inspect the plants, there may be spots on the underside of the leaf - an early sign of rust. You can fight rust only by removing the affected parts (burning) and fungicides: Mancozeb, Chlorothalonil, Azoxystrobin, Triademefon. Repeat treatment after two weeks. One treatment with fungicides, without removing the leaves, will not be enough.

lily mosquito

It affects plant buds that must be removed and burned. An individual lays eggs in buds, the emerging larva begins to feed on them, as a result of which the bud is deformed, discolored, and shredded.

thrips

This tiny pest can cause a lot of trouble not only for the daylily, but also for other garden inhabitants. Thrips live in the roots of plants in winter, and in the spring they begin their destructive destruction. They suck the juices from the whole plant: from the leaves and petals, in the autumn they descend again into the roots and hibernate. When found, the peduncle is cut off at the root and burned. If only the leaves are damaged, then they are removed and also burned. In autumn, the soil around the plants is treated with insecticides.