It's time... It's time to start visiting all sorts of different stores and shops selling roots, bulbs, fertilizers, pruning shears! Although, what am I talking about? Probably already half of the useful area of ​​the balcony is something that was bought for future use and is waiting to be sent to the dacha.

And what is there in this dense pile: film, agrospan, mulch, coconut briquettes, supports... But you never know what useful things have turned up over the years winter months, I can’t remember everything. And how many other different little bags and bags are hidden in the secluded corners of the apartment, in bookshelves, in the far corners of closets.

This is a necessary measure, because I’m tired of catching the mocking glances of my relatives, or listening to advice that it would be better to buy something more practical, aesthetic and pretty.

And now the most pleasant moment has come - you can start buying the future inhabitants of your gardens. Everyone’s tastes are different, and the probability of predicting what you’ll want to buy is very low, but you can still think about how to store what you bought before planting it in the ground.

And this is our main task, however, it is only the third, because the first task is to choose the best, and the second is to stop in time in the “grabbing-buying” process.

Sometimes I get overcome by insomnia if, towards the end of the night, I suddenly remember how much I managed to buy and how many ready-made seats I have.

So, lily bulbs. Having chosen the largest, cleanest and strongest lily bulbs, even if this means turning over the entire box if they are in a package or torturing the seller if they are in bulk, we bring the spoils home. On the way, we frantically remember whether we have “Maxim” or brilliant green, sphagnum, coconut shavings, plain newspapers and bags.

By the way, about the bags. You can collect apple bags; lately you have often come across perforated bags, they are clean, just a sticker with a weight, but you can use that too - write something you need.

The first thing we do is inspect the lily bulbs again. Then there are several options:

You can immediately pickle the bulbs in Maxim, dry them, wrap them in sphagnum, newspaper (be sure to sign!!!) and put everything in a perforated bag and in the refrigerator, in a vegetable drawer, and so that the temperature is from 0 to +3 C.

You can check the onions, coat doubtful areas with brilliant green, wrap them in newspaper, in a bag, or in the refrigerator. Then you can keep it in “Maxim” before planting it in the ground, and if the lily bulbs have withered, then also in “Epin”.

But these are concerns about planting, and we are talking about preservation. In both options 1 and 2, you need to sprinkle the newspaper a little with water.

Once a week or less, if you have enough patience, you need to check the bulbs.

Lilies packaged this way can last for a long time, which is good for them. Who else can endure “preliminary imprisonment” in a refrigerator chamber without damage?!

The most persistent - hostas and daylilies. They can easily lie in the refrigerator for a long time, even if sprouts appear. They should be planted in the ground when the leaves of hostas try to unfurl, and daylilies when the sprout reaches a length of 15 cm or more.

After planting, place it on a bright but cool window, or on a glazed balcony, cover it at night (some with bottles, some with milk cartons, some just twisting pound cakes from newspapers) and top it with whatever you have - lutrasil, a thin old sheet.

But, of course, placing pots on the balcony largely depends on the temperature outside the window. Be sure to place the pots on something, not just a cold stone floor. Of course, what began to grow on the balcony, in open ground can only get in when the leaves of the country plants are the same as those of the domestic ones. You can’t plant it earlier!

If the purchased roots are in the supplier's packaging - in a bag with perforations, with peat or sphagnum, then you need to periodically remove these bags and check: if the peat is very dry, then you can lightly spray the peat with a syringe, lightly shaking the bag, distribute evenly and place again in the refrigerator, in the vegetable drawer.

Bearded irises they are also good to keep in the refrigerator, but they must be kept dry rather than wet.

Tradescantia unpretentious and grows well on the windowsill. If it gets too long, you need to cut it off and put the shoots in water - it will take root well.

The most capricious during overexposure - Siberian and Japanese irises, phlox, hellebores, poppies, speedwells, meconopsis, anemones. Just look, they will rot, and the roots are usually few and thin.

They can be washed in a “Maxim” solution (in fact, this is not harmful to anyone), immediately planted in pots with light soil and barely watered, be sure to dry the soil between waterings, just so that they do not dry out. In many of them, if planted and left in a warm place, only the leaves will grow, and the root will sleep. The leaves eat up all the reserves, and that’s all - wasted money, the plant died. So, be sure to choose a cold place +10-15 and below, make sure that mold does not appear.

And in general, if you have a balcony or loggia where the temperature is around +10, then you can buy almost everything. And, if it starts to sprout strongly and quickly, plant it on the balcony.

If the rootlets have been in the refrigerator until warm and remain dormant, then at the end of April - beginning of May you can plant everything in the ground.

Of course, it’s better to start with something that can be easily and simply stored, but if you really want it, you can buy a lot and go out.

One more thing. Surely on March 8 someone will be given flowers as a gift, but not simple ones, but, knowing your passion for landscaping, in a pot: miniature rose, primrose or gerbera. And this is even wonderful, because they can also be planted in the garden later!

What are your actions in this case? We thank the donor, take a break from everything and get busy with the gift. We get the soil, drainage, and plant Epin. We'll equip it quickly workplace on the kitchen table there is a newspaper, scissors, a pot.

Gently and carefully (a gift after all!) Shake our flower out of the purchased pot, shake off ALL the soil from the roots, trim the roots, and soak them in Epin.

You need to try to wash away all those peat residues on the roots that you could not shake off. Otherwise, poor flowers are planted in bare peat with phytoadditives of such concentration and power that the plant does not have enough strength to live for long. After all, the main task of the sellers is to expel them on time and sell them in bloom, but no one thinks about the long-term preservation of the life of the flower.

By the way, if you plant a rose in the ground, don’t expect to get a miniature one - it’s a lottery, but it’s so exciting!

While the roots are in “Epin”, we prepare a drainage pot and soil. We plant it in our own pot, with fresh soil, and in the summer we can plant our flower in the garden. You can plant miniature roses, petunias, and primroses in open ground this way. Gerberas are purely domestic flowers. They should be left on the windowsill.

It has begun... It’s still February on the calendar, but the first plants have already begun to arrive in stores selling planting material. First, timidly and timidly, gladioli, dahlias, buttercups, lilies and begonias. But the closer spring comes, the wider the river of supplies. And now there are hostas, daylilies, geraniums, tradescantia, astilbe, roses and much, much more. If you don't buy it now, you might not buy it at all. Unfortunately, this is true. Some varieties come in limited quantities, some simply do not wait for us and quietly die from heat, humidity or some other reason.

So, we bought a plant. And the spine began to grow, but in the yard there was a deep minus. And planting in a pot will not improve the situation - the plant produces shoots, the first leaves... even buds - and dies.

And this is what happened - growth began due to the reserves accumulated in the tissues, but the roots did not “turn on” - the result was a “forcing effect”, much like the regrowth of shoots from cut roses in a vase.

Be careful when purchasing anemones, heucheras, heleniums, Siberian and Japanese irises, bathing flowers, poppies, monardas, hellebores, phlox, and echinaceas long before planting - keeping them alive is much more difficult.
For planting material of these plants, cold storage (at a temperature not exceeding +5 °C) and the so-called “cold start”: planting in the ground at the most early dates, preferably under cover.

According to experience, it is generally better to buy phloxes and echinaceas in summer or autumn, with a closed root system (in pots). The same applies to lumbago - this plant does not tolerate transplantation well, and storage in the form of open roots is completely contraindicated for it.

You shouldn't buy anemones in spring at all. And if it’s so bad, a cold start is vital for them! Plant the plants in a container in a slightly damp substrate, and take them into the garden - warm the soil with boiling water, dig in the container and cover it with sawdust and a good amount of snow.

A cold start is required for delphinium and aconite.

What can you buy without fear?

Although the summer season is still far away, feel free to buy hosta rhizomes, daylilies, astilbe, bergenia, sedum, and lily bulbs. These plants will tolerate home care well. Even if you don't have room in the refrigerator or their leaves have already begun to unfurl, you can plant them in pots and place them on a bright, cool windowsill. True, many hosts in room conditions do not acquire the leaf color characteristic of the variety, so final conclusions about misgrading will have to be made only after the plant has acclimatized in the garden. Yes, and plants with regrown leaves will have to be planted in the ground late, after all frosts have ended, and, moreover, carefully shading them.

Bearded irises are also quite undemanding in storage. But their plots require drier conditions, and in damp conditions they can rot.

Waiting for spring. Planting material is most often stored in a refrigerator or basement at a low positive temperature.
The rhizomes are transferred with slightly moistened peat, coconut fiber, sawdust, light soil, or even better - sphagnum moss and placed in loosely covered plastic bags or plastic containers. Plants with small, thin, quickly drying roots can be planted in pots with soil, but they are stored in the same conditions. A very good solution would be to take planting material of frost-resistant plants to the dacha and bury it in the snow. Choose a shady place in the garden where there is no standing water in the spring, and dig the snow down to the ground. Remove the rhizomes from the packaging, place them on the ground, cover with peat, soil or sawdust, and cover with snow on top. But this can only be done with completely “dormant” plants, with unopened buds. If the leaves begin to unfold, negative temperatures are contraindicated for them.
After the snow melts, plant perennials in the ground. It is useful to use film or other coverings.

Read more about storing some perennials:

Daylilies

root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies.
Daylilies are well kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly moist substrate, best stored wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag. There is no need to plant daylilies in pots at home if the sprout length is up to 10 cm (personal experience). But if the sprouts are longer, then the daylily can be planted in a pot and grown as indoor plant, since this unpretentious plant easily tolerates home conditions. The only difficulty is that you can plant a plant from a pot in the ground only after the threat of return frosts has passed, gradually accustoming it to sunlight. (For Ukraine - after May 25.) After planting in a permanent place, the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight.
Daylilies that have been stored in the refrigerator after purchase can be planted in open ground at the end of April (depending on the weather, focusing on the daylilies already in the garden, protected from frost plastic bottle, lutrasilom).

What you should pay attention to when inspecting: roots - trim the rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or remedies for root rot. They are stored well in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly moist substrate, best stored wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag.
There is no need to plant hostas in pots at home if the sprout length is up to 5 cm (personal experience). Personal experience: they were sent to the pit when the ground was still frozen and boiling water was pouring in order to dig a hole. I poured coconut substrate at the bottom of the hole, laid the hostas, covered it with coconut substrate, then with earth. They held up well from the end of March until May.
It can be planted in open ground at the end of April (depending on the condition of the plant - the smaller the sprout, the earlier it can be planted; depending on the weather, focusing on the hostas already in the garden, covering it from frost with a plastic bottle, lutrasil).
They prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. Depending on the size of the variety/species of hosta, the root collar is buried from 1.0 to 5.0 cm when planting.
If necessary, you can plant it in a pot at home, since hostas can easily tolerate the warm and dry air of a room. But we must keep in mind that such plants will have to be kept at home until the beginning of June, and only then planted in open ground, gradually hardening the plants.

What you should pay attention to when inspecting: roots - trim the rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies (Epin).
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on a windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires low temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. Before planting in the ground, it is advisable to store the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag.
If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then a “cold start” is necessary. We plant it in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 soil, put it in the refrigerator. We monitor the appearance of leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not overwater! We plant it in open ground in May, making sure to shade the planted plants.

What you should pay attention to when inspecting: roots - trim the rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root collar - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies.
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on a windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. Before planting in the ground, it is advisable to store the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag. If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then a “cold start” is necessary. We plant it in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 soil, put it in the refrigerator. We monitor the appearance of leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Don't flood!
However, it is better to take it to the dacha as soon as possible and bury it (if the ground has not thawed yet, you can use purchased soil for this).

What you should pay attention to during inspection: remove loose scales (if they are hard and not rotten, they can be used for propagation).
If there is rot, remove to healthy tissue. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot remedies.
Overexposure: keep well in the refrigerator. Use the product recommended for pre-planting treatment/storage. Dry. Place in a dry substrate, wrap in newspapers and store in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. It is advisable to place the bulbs with the sprout facing upward, then even if the lilies begin to grow, the sprout will not bend. If the sprout exceeds 10-15 cm, it can be planted in a pot. You just need to remember that lilies grow roots at temperatures no higher than 10-15 degrees. Therefore, the pot must be placed on a glazed balcony or in the refrigerator. You can plant a lily from a pot into open ground only after the threat of return frosts has passed. We plant lilies stored in the refrigerator in May.

Clematis:

Clematis with 1-2 eyes or, if the purchased clematis is frail, are planted in long pots without a bottom; rose pots are usually used. You can use larger clematis pots. Sometimes I plant in not very large pots at home, and when I bring them to the dacha, I plant them in larger ones. Why do I plant it in a pot without a bottom, because in just one season the roots of clematis good conditions extend beyond the pot. If the pots have a bottom, then as a rule I get a twisted ball of roots, some of the roots come out of the drainage holes and when digging these roots break off, and the tangled ones have to be untangled during planting, which is not good, because in the fall I try to transfer the clematis from the pot to its permanent place , and not replant.
So, I planted it in a pot (I buy soil, if it’s not possible to buy it, you can use soil from the garden) and I dig the pots into the ground in a stationary greenhouse. If there is no permanent greenhouse or there is no room for pots, then you can build a greenhouse from arcs. The main condition is that there is constant humidity, warmth and no stagnation of water at the roots.
Then clematis grow by leaps and bounds and in one season you can get decent bushes with several buds or even sprouts. I never place pots on the ground; I always dig them in, so there is more opportunity to retain moisture inside the pot at the roots.
Peonies are a separate matter.
About buying peonies. The life cycle of these plants is such that they best tolerate transplantation and division in the fall. Rhizomes planted in spring take root worse, are stunted in growth, and are more susceptible to disease. To be fair, it must be said that it is not easy to completely destroy a peony root - they are very unpretentious - but you can easily lose a year, or even two, before full flowering. Experienced peony growers advise immediately planting the rhizomes acquired in the spring in large (3-8 l) pots and displaying or digging them in the garden, and in August-September, at the optimal time for peonies, planting them in a permanent place

They are popular among gardeners and landscape designers for two main properties - beauty and unpretentiousness. Among the thousands of species of daylilies, it is difficult to select the most attractive ones, since they all have bright and expressive colors during the flowering period. It is always difficult to believe that a beautiful, delicate flower can be unpretentious, but when it comes to caring for daylilies, this is absolutely true. The plant can grow for ten years without replanting, bloom in partial shade and be picky about the soil, but it still needs minimal care, for example, before wintering. Let's take a closer look at the topic of how to prepare daylilies for winter.

Daylily belongs to the lily plant family. This flower was brought to Europe from Asia and successfully took root in new territories. Interesting feature plants – one-day flowering. Each flower lives only one day, but due to the fact that there are quite a lot of buds on the stem, flowering continues for a long time. This characteristic property can be taken advantage of. If you plant different varieties from the earliest to the latest, the picturesque flowering will continue throughout the summer. In order for this beauty to continue from year to year, it is important to approach the wintering of daylilies responsibly.

Autumn preparation - pruning daylilies

The fact that daylilies are often called flowers for the lazy is also confirmed in the matter of autumn-winter care. This plant is very winter-hardy and usually does not require complex manipulations. Determining when to prune daylilies for the winter is necessary based on the plant itself and its “behavior” in a given season. Flower shoots are removed immediately after flowering. If autumn is rainy, then wet flowers may still remain on the stems after withering; in this case, it is also advisable to cut them off. But there is no need to rush with the leaves. Full pruning of daylilies for the winter is carried out late autumn, since the leaves tend to remain green and alive even in October-November. When they do wither, it is necessary to cut off the entire above-ground part of the plants and remove them from the site in order to reduce the number of pests, rodents and the likelihood of diseases in the next season.

Wintering daylilies

In general, wintering and preparing for winter of daylilies of different varieties differs; the degree of care depends on the characteristics of the variety. Some evergreen or semi-evergreen rare ornamental daylilies may not tolerate a very frosty winter, so they require shelter for prevention; more adapted varieties easily tolerate the winter without outside intervention. It is also important to consider covering daylilies for the winter if they were planted in the fall of the current year, as this will help the plants adapt. Suitable shelters include sawdust, straw, dry grass, dry peat or spruce branches. Before covering daylilies for the winter, you need to make sure that the cold weather, because if the air temperature rises again, the daylilies may be banned, which will affect their condition much worse than later covering. There is another way to winter daylilies, perhaps not too easy, but suitable for areas where the temperature reaches -35°C in the cold season. The idea is that at the end of November the daylily rhizome just needs to be dug up and moved to a cold, but more gentle shelter, and then planted again in the flowerbed in the spring.

That's all the simple tips on how to prepare daylilies for winter. If you do not neglect them, then in the spring the flowers will bloom again.

It's hard to find a flowerbed on summer cottage where there are no daylilies. These flowers have gained immense popularity among flower growers of all countries due to their beauty, diversity and unpretentiousness. However, even they need, albeit minimal, but proper care autumn and preparation for winter.

Note! Daylilies are not a flower bed of lilies or its second name, but a completely separate genus of plants (not bulbous, like the lily, but rhizomatous). Don't be confused!

So, the main autumn activities for preparing daylilies for winter include the following:

• removing faded flower stalks (so that the plant does not waste energy on ripening seeds);
• transplantation (division and seating);
• fertilizing (optional and necessary, if you want to improve flowering next year);

Autumn fertilizer, i.e. potassium-phosphorus.

• pruning leaves (recommended for everyone);
• mulching and/or covering (only in cold and snowless regions).

Yes, it’s that simple, and it won’t take much time.

Replanting daylilies after flowering

After the daylilies have finished blooming (around August), it’s time to divide and replant them.

Interesting! Although daylilies are often replanted in the spring - in April.

How to divide and plant daylilies after flowering:

• Trim the foliage (or do it after planting).

In order for a plant to take root faster and better in a new place, it should not spend extra precious energy on green mass, so the above-ground part is always shortened.

• You dig up the bushes around the perimeter and take them out of the ground.
• Divide into several parts, usually 2-3 large or into separate sections.

• Choose a new place for planting (optimally sunny).
• Prepare the planting hole (mix garden soil with humus or compost, potash fertilizer, for example, potassium sulfate).
• Water, let the moisture absorb and place the division in the center of the hole.

• Fill it with soil, water it again, let it soak in, and add soil again.

Video: how to grow and propagate daylilies (divide and replant)

Daylily pruning in autumn

Perhaps, autumn pruning of withered foliage is the only recommended activity that everyone should do when preparing daylilies for winter.

Why prune daylilies in the fall?

Daylilies are pruned in the fall, pursuing the following goals:

• Prevent possible leaf rot(late autumn - early winter and early spring during thaws), which can cause rotting of the roots.
• Pruning is good prevention of diseases and pests, because Along with the cut leaves, you remove both pathogens and pest larvae from the bush.

When to prune daylilies in the fall: optimal timing

It is necessary to prune daylilies on the eve of stable subzero temperatures or immediately after their establishment. Depending on the climate of your region, the right time is in October-November.

Important! You should not prune daylilies ahead of time in the fall. The fact is that pruning too early can provoke the growth of the above-ground part of the plant - the appearance of new leaves.

How to prune daylilies for the winter

There is nothing difficult about autumn pruning of daylilies:

• Using a sharp pruning shears, cut off all the leaves at a height of 10-15 cm from the surface of the ground.

Important! Just don’t cut it too short (i.e., leaving no stumps at all—at the root), because this may trigger the plant to resume growth during periods of thaw.

• Next, all trimmed leaves must be raked and taken to a compost heap or taken out of the area and burned (if the leaves are heavily damaged by diseases and pests).

Sheltering daylilies for the winter

Do daylilies need to be covered for the winter?

Most of the perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter, however, daylilies belong to plants with high winter hardiness, so no covering for them, usually not required. Especially if in your region snowy winters, because snow is the best shelter for many perennials.

However, if your growing region's climate is characterized by prolonged severe frosts and snow rarely falls, then it’s still worth insulating daylilies, especially since if they were planted this fall, since they have not yet had time to get stronger and adapt to new conditions environment and may freeze.

How to properly cover daylilies for the winter

Most often, it will be quite enough to mulch your daylilies with a layer of mulch of 5-8 cm, which can be used as straw, dry leaves, or rotted sawdust.

If more serious insulation is required, then you can put spruce branches on top of the mulch or even cover the daylilies with a non-woven covering material.

Thus, now you know that daylilies are a fairly unpretentious and winter-hardy flower crop, but they still need some preparation for wintering. Of course, you can let things take their course and not care for your flowers at all in the fall, but you love your daylilies and don’t want anything to happen to them.

Video: how to prepare daylilies for winter

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