Bulbous indoor flowers hippeastrum. Hippeastrum care at home

The handsome hippeastrum thanks to its lush crown of foliage and large bright flowers enjoys great love and popularity among gardeners. Among the other undeniable advantages of exotic is that this perennial plant feels great both in room conditions, and in the summer garden.

Homeland of hippeastrum, description, types and varieties with photos

Until the 16th century, hippeastrum was indigenous to the tropics South America. Their representatives are still widespread in the Amazon River basin. It was brought to Europe only five centuries ago.

Hippeastrum is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are linear, green and purple in shades. The peduncle reaches a height of 35-80 cm and is crowned with umbrella-shaped inflorescences with 3-7 buds. Hippeastrum flowers come in a wide variety of colors and shapes and grow over 20 cm in diameter.

The perennial belongs to the large amaryllis family and, due to its external similarity, hippeastrum is sometimes mistakenly called amaryllis. Unlike the latter, hippeastrum has no aroma and blooms mainly in winter, and under certain conditions in summer. Amaralis blooms mainly in autumn. Amaryllis flowers form more inflorescences, and its genus is represented by only one known species, at that time there were about 90 of them in the hippeastrum.

The species diversity of the perennial is represented by many hybrids. In their homeland - Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay - they are not grown indoors. However, thanks to the work of breeders, hippeastrum laid the foundation for varieties that are successfully cultivated as house plants:

• Rosalia– has a thick shoot on which up to 10 pink-coral large double flowers bloom;
• Marilyn Monroe– blooms with four large white-cream double flowers;
• Evegreen– forms up to 12 buds at the same time, the flowers have a greenish tint;
• Dancy Queen– a salad-colored peduncle is crowned with a variegated flower, the petals of which are painted with stripes of white and red;
• Venetto– the bulb produces several shoots, on which more than 20 buds are formed. The center of the flower is bright green with a yellow border, white petals are framed by a pink edge.

Hippeastrum indoors

With skillful care for hippeastrum at home, this perennial will delight its owners with riotous flowering at least twice a year. However, he makes considerable demands on himself:

• during the growth period it requires an air temperature of +20...+25°C, and in a dormant state the plant bulbs are stored at +10...+13°C;
• High air humidity should not be allowed. The plant is sprayed rarely, and during the flowering period it is completely stopped;
• hippeastrum is light-loving, so it is better to place it near windows that face south. During the dormant period, move to a cool, dark place.

Watering and fertilizing

The plant should not be watered until leaves emerge from the bulb.

To ensure good growth and proper development of hippeastrum, you need to know some of the subtleties of watering this perennial. At the beginning of winter, in order to bring the plant out of the dormant period, it is taken to a bright place. Watering is prohibited until the bulb has produced leaves. When the peduncle is less than 10 cm high, water moderately, along the edge of the pot or in a tray, otherwise the bulb will disappear. As the flower develops, watering is increased, but do not allow excess moisture. A slight drying of the earthen clod is acceptable.

During the growth period, when the arrow reaches a height of 15 cm, mineral fertilizers begin to be added to the soil. Do this once every three weeks, stopping a month before the rest period. Potassium and phosphate fertilizers promote the formation of flower stalks and accelerate the flowering of hippeastrum. Nitrogen fertilizers are not used, as they often provoke gray rot, causing the flower to die.

After flowering, the hippeastrum bulb begins to actively grow. At this time, next year's flower stalks are being laid, and watering should be regular. By the end of summer, the plant begins a dormant period and the soil ceases to be moistened.

The soil for planting should be river sand.

To plant this plant, a specially shaped pot is required. The hippeastrum bulb grows long roots, so the container must be tall. In addition, the container should be narrow so that the distance between the bulb and the walls of the pot does not exceed 3-4 cm. In a wide container, hippeastrum may not bloom for a long time.

The soil mixture is prepared from river sand, turf soil, peat and humus in a ratio of 1:2:1:1. The soil should have a neutral or slightly alkaline pH reaction. You can use a ready-made nutrient substrate for bulbous plants.

Before planting, the bulb should be prepared and stimulated to grow. To do this, place it in warm water at a temperature of +40...+45°C for two to three hours. Planting is carried out according to the following scheme:

• a drainage layer of broken shards or expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the pot;
• the container is filled with the substrate so that the bulb placed in it protrudes 1/3 above the ground;
• the soil is slightly moistened;
• The pot is placed in a bright, warm place (+20…+25°C).

The next watering will be only after the flower stalk appears. From this point on, as the flower develops, watering is increased. When the peduncle reaches a height of 15 cm, the plant is watered with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate. After a week, phosphorus fertilizers are applied.

Under favorable conditions, flowering begins a month after the arrow forms. During this period, it is important to ensure that the bulb is fed in order to prevent it from decreasing in size and losing weight. For this purpose, once every 10 days, fertilize with a solution of chicken manure (1:40). In a cool, well-lit place, flowers will last longer.

In summer, hippeastrum can be taken out into the fresh air and buried directly in the pot or planted in open ground. In such conditions, the green mass grows well and the bulb develops, which will have a positive effect on future flowering. In September, the plant is returned to indoor conditions.

Inexperienced gardeners may have a question about what to do when the hippeastrum has faded. To prevent the plant from weakening the formation of seeds, the peduncle is cut off directly above the bulb. The flower continues to be watered, and the leaves are wiped with a damp sponge.

Perennial transplantation

Hippeastrum quickly depletes reserves nutrients in the soil, therefore every two to three years the plant needs to be replanted into fresh substrate. This is done in August, a month after flowering before sending it to rest, or in December, before the bulb awakens.

The plant is carefully shaken out of the pot, the roots are carefully freed from the old earthen lump. Damaged and rotten shoots are cut off with a sharp knife, and the sections are treated with crushed charcoal. A drainage layer is placed in the new pot and filled with soil, into which the roots and bulb are lowered.

It is not necessary to replant the flower immediately after purchase. Moreover, you cannot do this during flowering. You can replace only the top layer of soil with a nutrient substrate.

Reproduction of hippeastrum

If you follow the rules of care and storage of the bulb, the flower can be grown for more than 10 years. In addition, several methods of propagating hippeastrum are available at home. The perennial is grown from seeds and propagated by dividing the bulb or its children. The last two methods are simpler and faster.

Propagation by seeds

It is better to sow seeds immediately after collection, as they lose their viability

To obtain hippeastrum seeds, the flowers need to be pollinated. This experiment is best carried out in open ground. After the plant has flowered, the seeds ripen in the box within two months. This process will be speeded up by spraying the flower with a 5% boric acid solution. Since the seeds quickly lose their viability, it is recommended to sow them immediately after collection. For this:

• wrap the seeds in a wet rag, place them in a container, cover with glass and leave in a warm place for 10 days - this soaking will help speed up germination;
• the hatched seeds are embedded in a mixture of deciduous soil, sand and peat to a depth of about 2 cm;
• Shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. They require a lot of light, at the same time the seedlings need to be shaded from direct sunlight;
• when two true leaves are formed, the plants are planted in separate 7-centimeter pots;
• Seedlings are watered moderately and fertilized with mineral fertilizers until mid-August.

For the first two years, young plants do not need periods of rest. At the age of three to four years, when the bulb reaches a size of 5 cm in diameter, you can begin forcing the plant. To do this, watering is reduced in August and stopped completely in September. At the end of winter - beginning of spring, you can expect the first flowering of hippeastrum.

Reproduction by children

When propagated by children, flowering can be achieved after 3 years.

In order to fully preserve varietal characteristics, the most decoratively valuable hybrids are propagated by separating daughter bulbs. The size of the bulbs is at least 2 cm, they must be well formed and have their own roots. The babies are separated during transplantation.

Children's education can be stimulated. For this purpose, the bulb is deeply cut into 2-4 lobes. The sections are treated with charcoal powder and left to air dry for several days. After this, the bulb is placed in a sand-peat mixture, the substrate is moistened only through a tray. After some time, daughter bulbs form at the base.

The reproduction process is carried out in the following sequence:

• children are planted in a container with a nutrient mixture to a depth of 3-4 cm;
• in the first two years, plantings are kept in a well-lit place;
• moderate watering winter time its frequency is reduced.

In the third year, the plants are transplanted into separate pots. Caring for them is the same as for adult hippeastrum. Reproduction by children ensures flowering in three to four years.

Propagation by dividing the bulb

There are times when plants cannot produce children. The solution is to reproduce by dividing the bulb. For this:

• the onion is cut into 4-8 parts, each of which should have a bottom and roots;
• the sections are treated with crushed charcoal and dried for 2-3 days;
• planting material is placed in a nutrient mixture of turf soil, sand and peat.

The soil is kept moist, the air temperature is at +23...+25°C. When young plants begin to sprout from the bulbs, they are planted in separate pots and given the usual care.

How to provide a flower with a period of rest

The resting period of hippeastrum begins in autumn

A prerequisite for the flowering of hippeastrum is to provide it with a period of rest in the autumn. For this purpose, at the end of summer, watering is limited and fertilizing is reduced. In the first ten days of September, the soil ceases to be moistened.

In October, when the leaves dry out, they are removed and the pot with the bulb is moved to a dark, dry place. The temperature regime is maintained at +10…+13°С. In such conditions, the flower is stored until December. To prevent the roots from drying out, during this time watering is carried out 2-3 times through the pan.

In mid-winter, the plant begins to awaken from hibernation. It is transferred to a warm place and wait for the peduncle to appear. As soon as the arrow begins to grow, watering and fertilizing are resumed.

In exceptional cases, hippeastrum is grown without a pronounced dormant period. To make it bloom again late autumn or early spring, it is left throughout the year in a warm room near a well-lit window. However, it should be borne in mind that this regime depletes the bulb.

Pests and diseases of hippeastrum

Red rot of bulbs is considered one of the most dangerous diseases. To combat it, the upper dry scales are removed, and the foci of infection are cut out to healthy tissue. The wounds are treated with a solution of foundationazole and crushed charcoal. The bulb is dried for a week and planted in fresh soil.

The same treatment is used if hippeastrum is affected by fusarium and anthracnose. Often these diseases occur due to improper watering, inappropriate soil composition or lack of light. Therefore, it is so important to provide favorable conditions for keeping the plant.

(Hippeastrum) – bulbous flower, from warm tropics. So in our climatic zone it is grown only as indoor plant.

Like all bulbous plants, hippeastrum lends itself to flower forcing techniques- and this means that by the right time, celebration or festival, you can grow fresh flowers with your own hands. Moreover, hippeastrum flowers look very impressive and the number of plant varieties is quite large - you can choose the size and color to suit your taste.

Hippeastrum has a powerful hollow peduncle on which 2-6 flowers gradually bloom. The leaves are flat, belt-shaped, appear already during the flowering process, so that for quite a long time only a peduncle with an umbrella of large (10-30 cm in diameter) bright flowers flaunts from a pot of hippeastrum.

In color, the flowers of hybrid hippeastrums can be white, red, pink, orange, cream, and the color can be either uniform or in the form of a multi-color pattern - strokes, specks, lines. The shape of the inflorescences of indoor hippeastrums can be double or simple.

Hippeastrum variety "Lady Sahe plus"	Hippeastrum variety "Unique plus"
Hippeastrum variety "Double Record"	Hippeastrum variety "Aphrodite"

Hippeastrum as a gift

Sometimes hippeastrum is confused with amaryllis - these plants are indeed identical in appearance, but this different types the same family. Amaryllis blooms in autumn, and hippeastrum in winter or early spring. So the first plant can only be used as a gift on September 1st. 🙂 But a blooming hippeastrum can also be given as a gift New Year and Christmas, and on the February and March holidays.

Hippeastrum flowers are forced from November to February. So you can give an already blooming hippeastrum as a gift. Or you can give beautifully packaged hippeastrum bulbs for the New Year - for a passionate florist this will be a double gift, because he will receive flowers from them himself for the February or March holidays.

Purchase and storage of hippeastrum bulbs

Quite often, not one, but two or even three peduncles can grow from one hippeastrum bulb. When purchasing, please note that the larger the bulb, the more flower stalks it will eventually produce.

The bulbs should be firm to the touch, without signs of disease. Usually, stores sell bulbs specially prepared for forcing - foreign companies usually treat them with special compounds after digging.

If you do not want to plant the bulbs right away, then they should be stored in a cool, dark place - at a temperature of +8-10°C.

Life cycle of hippeastrum

Of course, you can also buy hippeastrum that is already in bloom - demand creates supply, and in modern times it is no longer a problem to find these flowers in a forced state in flower shops. But it’s much more interesting to grow flowers yourself.

Let's look at all phases of the bulb's life and the appropriate care for hippeastrum at each of them.

	Planting a hippeastrum bulb The bulb is dropped into a pot with well-fertilized soil. The bulb should be half in the ground, half out. Hippeastrums are planted between November and February. The soil around the bulb needs to be compacted. Place the pot with the plant in a bright but cool place. Watering at first is very moderate and careful - try not to soak the bulb itself to avoid rotting.
	The appearance of the peduncle and the forcing of flowers After a couple of weeks, an arrow begins to grow from the bulb. You need to move the pot with hippeastrum to a warm place - +20°C. The lighting should remain very good. As soon as a bud appears on the peduncle (in about another 3 weeks), watering should become more regular and abundant. In addition, you need to spray the peduncle with warm water.
	If the care of the hippeastrum was correct, then after 6-8 weeks from the moment the bulb was planted, the flowers finally bloom on the plant. Sometimes 2-3 peduncles appear from one bulb. Choose the largest bulbs when purchasing to achieve these spectacular blooms. In order for the flowers to live longer, the place should be very bright, but without direct sunlight on the plants themselves.
	Flowering and leaf appearance As the hippeastrum blooms, its leaves begin to appear. After flowering, the flower stalks need to be trimmed without waiting for the ovaries. Pruning should not be done at the root - more than half of the peduncle should be left so that the plant takes nutrients from it. Only after the peduncle has dried can it be cut off completely. The plant should still remain in a warm and well-lit area.
	From the end of summer, fertilizing and watering begin to be reduced. During this period, proper care of the hippeastrum is important, as the bulb gains strength for future flowering.
	The rest period of hippeastrum begins in October. You should move the flower to a cool place and completely stop watering and fertilizing. After the leaves wither, they are cut off at the root. The rest period lasts 2-3 months. After this, the bulb is removed from the pot, cleaned of dried roots and transplanted into a fresh substrate. From this moment on, the entire life cycle of the hippeastrum repeats from the beginning.

In order to get a blooming hippeastrum, you need to know plant care rules.

Before planting, the lower part of the bulb should be placed in water slightly warmer than room temperature for 3-6 hours. The bottom of the onion and roots should be in the water.

After the plant has flowered, there is no need to throw away the bulb. If you provide the hippeastrum with proper care, it will delight you with its flowering for several years.

After flowering, be sure to cut off the flower stalks and allow the leaves to fully develop.. To do this, you need to care for the plant until next autumn, watering and fertilizing it. Fertilize with a weak infusion of mullein with an admixture of mineral salts, or with a special complex liquid fertilizer for indoor flowers.

In summer, it is useful to take hippeastrums out into the fresh air - onto a balcony or terrace. It would be even better to bury the potted plants in the garden in a semi-shady place.

At the end of August, you should gradually reduce watering and fertilizing, and by October you should completely stop both.

In October, the plant is transferred to a dark, cool place (temperature + 8-10 ° C). The leaves, as soon as they wither and turn yellow, are cut off at the root. Hippeastrum goes dormant for 2-3 months.

At the end of November - beginning of January, the hippeastrum is transplanted into fresh soil. Before transplanting, you should inspect the bulb, removing dry, rotten and non-viable roots. The hippeastrum pot should not be too spacious.

6-8 weeks after transplantation, the hippeastrum will again delight you with flowers.

Forcing hippeastrums in water

Hippeastrums look quite impressive, blooming not in pots with soil, but in glass vases.

Unfortunately, such forcing will deplete the bulbs and will have to be thrown away in the future. But if you do not want to deal with hippeastrums every year, then this option is quite suitable for you.

Typically, such special glass vessels are used for forcing hyacinths, but they are also suitable for hippeastrums.

First you need to prepare the onion - trim off the dead roots. The vase is filled approximately 2/3 with warm, settled water. The bulb is placed on top of the vase - the bottom of the bulb should not touch the water. To moisturize the hippeastrum bulbs, the evaporating moisture from the vessel will be sufficient.

Vases with hippeastrums should be placed in a bright and warm place. Peduncles will begin to appear, as expected, in a couple of weeks, and in another month the hippeastrums will bloom. To prevent the peduncle from bending when it begins to grow, slowly turn the plant in relation to the light every 2-3 days.

If you want to have flowering hippeastrums all winter, then plant several bulbs every two weeks.

Photos of hippeastrum

There are varieties of hippeastrum with a shortened peduncle - it is stronger and thicker. This is quite practical for placing flowering plants indoors. These are, for example, Hippeastrum varieties ‘Baby Star’ and ‘Tel-Star’(left and right in the photo, respectively).

The small-flowered varieties of hippeastrum are very interesting - like these flowers in the photo, variety ‘Calimero’. Small graceful red flowers form numerous rosettes on tall peduncles. Such flowers will look good both in contrasting containers (as in the photo - in a blue flower box) and in small ceramic pots.

For hippeastrums with a tall peduncle, it is quite practical to use glass containers. A tall vessel will prevent the flower from breaking, and a glass vase with a drainage layer will make it possible to monitor the moisture level to avoid waterlogging. In the photo you see snow-white variety of hippeastrum ‘Mont Blanc’.

Double flowers varieties of hippeastrum ‘Double Record’ reach 20 cm centimeters in diameter. This flower is a record holder not only in size, but also in the number of flowers. By the way, if you are planning flowering for only one season, then you can place the bulbs not in the ground, but in a tall vase with expanded clay or hydrogel.

Image rights: My Beautiful Garden Magazines (January 2002, November 2002). Flickr.com - luz rovira, Don Perucho, maya_dragonfly, microbophile, Mikhail Ursus, nirsha, Anuchit Sundarakiti, emblatame (Ron), Flowers Excitement, dbarronoss, roko_fot01, peter_hasselbom, Ennor, Barbara J H, Poppins" Garden, Ramsis"07.

Among indoor flowers, hippeastrum is particularly attractive, as it is at the same time a rather complex plant in terms of planting and care. For this reason, not all gardeners manage to achieve its flowering. Below we will tell you everything about growing it and overcoming possible problems.

Hippeastrum - description of the flower

Hippeastrum flowers belong to a perennial plant emerging from a bulb. When it blooms and grows, large linear leaves are formed, which can stretch up to 70 cm and have a width of 4-5 cm. They are arranged in two rows, opposite each other.

Did you know? Although most hippeastrums have leaves with a familiar green color, a number of varieties have purple leaves, which makes the plant especially attractive even without flowering.

At proper care an inflorescence with 2-6 flowers appears on the hippeastrum. The flowers are large, can reach 15 cm in length, and their width is often 25 cm.

Their color can be very different: from white to dark red. After flowering, a fruit is formed in the form of a box, in which the hippeastrum seeds ripen.

When fully ripe, they can be used for planting and obtaining bulbs; fortunately, they have 100% germination rate.

However, this plant is quite difficult to grow at home, as it differs in a number of features:

1. It is almost impossible to obtain seeds suitable for future sowings from light and white varieties of hippeastrum, since they are hybrids.
2. For full plant growth in summer time It is good to plant it in the garden, digging it into the soil along with the pot.
3. Despite the fact that it is quite difficult to achieve hippeastrum flowering at home, you should be prepared for the fact that all efforts will be made for only 10 days of flowering.

Choosing a pot for hippeastrum

The size of the pot will directly depend on the size of the hippeastrum bulb. Please note: when planting, the bulb should be placed in the middle of the pot, leaving 5 cm to each edge. Thus, the pot for this flower must be at least 15 cm in diameter.

As for the height of the pot, on the contrary, it should not be too high, because the bulb does not need to be completely immersed in the soil ( its upper part remains half above the ground). In addition, at the bottom of the pot it will be necessary to lay out drainage from stones, and above it there is still a fairly large layer of soil.

There are no clear restrictions regarding the material of the container for hippeastrum, but it is still better to use ordinary plastic pots for this plant.

This is due to the fact that ceramics can heat up intensely in the sun, often causing overheating of the flower bulb. In this case, his death will be inevitable.

Choosing soil for hippeastrum

Hippeastrum flowers are quite demanding on the composition of the soil in the pot, so it must be prepared especially carefully.

The most important requirement is lightness of the soil, which could quickly pass moisture through itself and provide good air supply to the bulb.

It is also important that there is a lot of soil in the soil. organic fertilizers, and its acidity level did not exceed 6 pH.

It is quite difficult to obtain such a soil mixture by mixing it yourself, so it is better to go to a specialized store and purchase ready-made soil for bulbous indoor flowers. It’s true that it wouldn’t hurt to add a little sand to the purchased soil.

If you still decide to prepare a soil mixture for hippeastrum yourself, then use the following components for it (the ratio is indicated in numbers):

• clay-turf soil (2);
• leaf soil(1);
• humus (1);
• peat (1);
• sand (1).

Which hippeastrum bulbs are best to choose?

Most often, hippeastrum is propagated by bulbs, which can be purchased at a regular flower shop. However, when choosing bulbs, you must remain as careful as possible, since spoiled planting material will only bring you trouble.

It is worth going for them in spring or autumn, since this is the ideal time for forcing a flower.

The most important key to getting a large and healthy flower is This is the use of large bulbs that store a sufficient supply of nutrients. Thanks to this, not only will a large plant grow from the bulb, but it will also be guaranteed to bloom.

But in addition to its large size, the bulb must also have a strong neck and bottom. It’s great if its upper scales are dry and brown. If there are seals on the bulb, red or dark spots, rotten - it has already deteriorated and is not worth buying.

But often bulbs are sold not just in bags without soil, but also in pots. In such cases, when purchasing a flower, it is necessary to inspect the roots of the bulb, which should be visible through the hole in the bottom of the pot.

A healthy bulb will be indicated by:

• roots are white;
• the body of the bulb is hard and strong to the touch;
• dry, brown scales;
• absence of wet or discolored areas.

Important! If the store offers significant discounts on hippeastrum bulbs, be sure to ask the sellers what they are connected with. Very often this is done to sell rotten planting material, although prices may be reduced due to the end of the planting season.

Where to place the hippeastrum?

Hippeastrums love moderate temperature, which during their growing season should not exceed +23 ˚С, but should not fall below +17 ˚С.

However, if we are talking about the plant’s dormant period, then it is better to remove the bulb from the room and take it to the basement, where the temperature is at +10 ˚С.

Since hippeastrums love a lot of sun, their place is only near a window, into which light falls almost throughout the day. But the sun's rays should not shine directly on the flower; it is better to curtain the window with thick tulle so that the leaves and flowers of the hippeastrum do not get burned.

In this case, the flower pot should be constantly rotated, otherwise it may stretch to one side.

Hippeastrum needs good lighting even after flowering, since without it the bulb and seeds in the box will not be able to fully ripen for the next planting.

Air humidity is also important for the flower, and if it is low, it will need spraying (just make sure that drops of water do not fall on the flowers).

Planting and propagation of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum suggests the possibility of planting the most different ways, among which you can use both seeds and plant parts at home. You can try each of them.

Seed method

Planting hippeastrum in a pot by seed involves the full maturation of the box formed after flowering.

It is very important that during this period the plant receives enough nutrients, moisture and sunlight, since otherwise the seeds may not ripen.

When the box with them is completely dry, it is simply torn off, after which the seeds can be immediately used for sowing.

Please note that when propagating hippeastrum from seeds, in the first year of sowing, the bulb in the ground is just beginning to form, which means that only next year it will be able to produce an arrow with leaves. It may take another 1-2 years before full flowering occurs.

However, despite the need for a long wait for flowering, it is thanks to the seed method that it is possible to obtain varietal hippeastrums with a clear manifestation of all characteristics.

Vegetative methods

Vegetative methods of propagating hippeastrums involve either the use of daughter bulbs that are formed near the main one (they can be separated only after the diameter reaches at least 2 cm), or by dividing the bulbs into two parts.

Both of these options are used only when transplanting a flower, when the bulb is dug out of the soil.

When planting hippeastrums with the help of daughter bulbs, flowering also does not occur in the first year. They need 2-3 years to ripen and gain strength for flowering.

Landing technology

When planting a bulb in pre-prepared soil, it is important to consider the following nuances:

Important! If during planting or transplanting the bulb there are scales on it that can be easily removed with your fingers, it is better to remove them immediately, since they are already dead and will rot if they come into contact with moisture.

Growing hippeastrum in a pot

When growing hippeastrums at home, the flowers need to be given a lot of attention and care. Although in general it is to ensure good place for growth, watering and feeding, yet this plant has its own requirements for all these aspects.

Watering hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is quite whimsical in watering, since it cannot be over-filled with water, nor allowed to suffer a lack of moisture. Also, during each growing season of a flower, it requires special water balance:

Please note that water should not fall on the bulb - it should only be poured into the soil.

Fertilizer and feeding

Fertilizer for hippeastrum must be selected taking into account the stage of flower development. In addition, it is important to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers.

First, it is better to buy special fertilizers intended for bulbous indoor plants. Feeding the hippeastrum proceeds according to the following scheme:

Hippeastrums respond best to fertilizing with potassium fertilizers. In general, soil fertilization should be done every two weeks, but nutrients should not be applied to dry soil.

In addition, if you have just transplanted or planted hippeastrum, the first feeding must be done no earlier than after 1 month.

How to make hippeastrum bloom?

It often happens that a bulb produces arrows with leaves for several years in a row, but a peduncle does not appear on it. The first reason may be that the bulb is too small, which simply does not have enough strength to flower,

Blooming hippeastrum fascinates with its beauty. Only once a year he pleases us with huge star flowers. And what a disappointment it can be when the long-awaited flower does not appear, or the plant begins to fade altogether. To avoid such troubles and be able to enjoy the contemplation of this miracle flower, you need to know some secrets of care and stick to them. The grateful plant will certainly please the eye with generous flowering.

Description of hippeastrum

Appearance

Hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are linear, shiny leaves, 50–70 cm long, 4–5 cm wide, and have shallow grooves on the surface. The leaves are arranged in two rows. During the flowering period, the plant produces a powerful, tall (up to 60–80 cm) peduncle.

The name of the flower is translated from ancient Greek as “star horseman”.

Hippeastrum during flowering is a source of pride and admiration

The flowers are funnel-shaped. Their color range is quite wide: red, white, orange, pink, purple, sometimes yellow or greenish shades. The main tone can be supplemented with strokes or specks.

The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter, collected in an umbrella inflorescence. Hippeastrum has a very faint odor. Some species have no smell at all. This is a great advantage for people prone to allergic reactions.

Natural habitat and home maintenance

The homeland of hippeastrum is the American tropics and subtropics, in particular the Amazon basin. It was brought to Europe in the 16th century and quickly gained admirers around the world. In 1799, the first hybrid Hippeastrum Johnson was bred. Today these flowers are widely used as a houseplant and are also grown for cutting. Hippeastrums are not particularly difficult to care for. Even novice gardeners can easily cope with this task.

Variety of hippeastrum varieties

This plant belongs to the Amaryllis family and has about 90 species and more than 2 thousand varieties.

IN indoor floriculture The most commonly cultivated plant is hippeastrum hybrida. The classification of varietal hippeastrums is based on two characteristics: flower size and shape. Depending on this, plants are conventionally divided into 9 groups, which are indicated in the table.

The most popular groups and varieties of hippeastrum - table

Group name	Popular varieties
Large-flowered simple	Apple Blossom, Charisma, Showmaster, Minerva, Hermes
Medium flowered simple	Lemon Star, Magic Green
Small-flowered simple	Santa Cruz, Giraffe, Baby Star, Bianca, Neon
Terry large-flowered	Blossom Peacock, White Peacock, Sweet Nymphs, Dance Queen, Aphrodite, Lady Jane
Terry medium-flowered	Alfresco, Uniquay, Double Record, Elvas, Pasadena,
Terry small-flowered	Zombie
Sibistr	La Paz, Emerald, Chico, Rio Negro, Tiramisu, Melfi
Orchids	Papilio, Exotic Star, Ruby Star
Tubular	Pink Floyd, Amputo, Santiago, Germa, Rebecca

Magnificent hippeastrums in the photo

Similarities and differences with amaryllis

Amaryllis is often classified as a hippeastrum variety, but this is erroneous.

Hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis or the names of these flowers are considered synonymous. Even hippeastrum can be sold under the name “amaryllis” or vice versa. They are indeed relatives, belonging to the same botanical family - amaryllidaceae, but representing different genera.

Externally, these plants are very similar and require almost the same care. Biologically, they are structured differently. The main differences are presented in the table.

Biological differences between hippeastrum and amaryllis - table

Characteristics	Hippeastrum
Rest period	September–February.	June–September.
Flowering period	February March.	Autumn (at home - closer to winter).
Reproduction	Children are formed quite rarely.	Babies are regularly formed in the bulb.
Peduncle structure	Hollow.	Full-bodied.
Number of flowers in inflorescence	2–6.	8–12.
The smell of flowers	Practically absent.	Fragrant.
Features of the appearance of the peduncle	After the appearance of the fourth leaf or simultaneously with them.	First the peduncle appears, and towards the end of flowering the leaves appear.
Possibility of changing the life cycle	It is possible to artificially retire at any time, as well as stimulate flowering on a given date and re-blooming.	Life cycles cannot be “programmed.”

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

The practice of cultivating this plant shows that the beauty of hippeastrum depends on the optimal temperature, humidity and light levels. Intense flowering ensures a full dormant period in a dark, dry and cool place for at least 8-10 weeks. “Tired” hippeastrum most often produces small flowers on a short peduncle or does not bloom at all.

At the moment the bulb awakens, the conditions should be gradually (but not radically) changed: move the plant to a warm, but not too brightly lit room and increase watering to moderate. In this way, the formation and development of peduncles is stimulated. In cold climates this process slows down greatly.

When a plant comes from the dark directly into bright light, combined with excess moisture, it stimulates the rapid growth of green mass, but noticeably inhibits the development of the peduncle.

Planting and transplanting

The time for planting hippeastrum bulbs can be selected depending on the desired flowering period. This can be done regardless of the season. The plant will delight you with flowers approximately 5–9 weeks from the moment the shoots appear. Hippeastrum bulbs sold through the retail chain are ready to bloom. They have passed the dormant period and do not need darkness. For planting, a deep (up to 15 cm) and narrow (no more than 5–6 cm larger than the diameter of the bulb) pot is required, preferably ceramic, and must be stable on a horizontal surface. A narrow pot is necessary to prevent excessive moisture and rotting of the roots. The optimal substrate should be drainage, which fills the lower part of the pot, and a soil mixture consisting of equal parts of sand, turf soil, humus or peat.

Drainage - required condition for warning excess moisture soil and rotting of the bulb and roots

The bulb is planted in a slightly moist soil mixture, deepening it to a maximum of 2/3 of the height.

A narrow pot and shallow planting help create optimal conditions for hippeastrum

After planting, the plant only needs warmth. There is no need to water the hippeastrum until sprouts appear.

If any damage is noticed on the bulb, it must first be healed. This procedure includes trimming the rotten parts, soaking for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxim) or ordinary brilliant green and drying for 24 hours.

Such a bulb must be planted in soil where humus is replaced with a small amount of sphagnum (peat moss).

It is advisable to bury the reanimated bulb into the soil to no more than 1/4 of its height. With such planting, it is easier to control its condition and, if necessary, carry out spraying. After the bulb has recovered, it is easy to add soil mixture to the usual level.

Having planted the plant in moist soil, place it in a warm, slightly shaded place (you can cover it with an empty pot) and exclude watering until the peduncle is forced to a height of 10 cm.

The optimal frequency of hippeastrum transplantation is once every 3–4 years. A favorable time is the threshold of the rest period or its end. It is advisable to use the transshipment method when replanting - moving the plant along with the earthen lump. In this case, the root system is minimally damaged, which contributes to the rapid rooting of the bulb and its active development.

Transshipment method - a method of transplantation with minimal damage to the root system

Basic rules for caring for hippeastrum

Watering and fertilizing

As discussed above, the intensity of watering of hippeastrum is directly related to its life cycle. However, it is important to provide the plant not only with the required amount of moisture, but also to correctly deliver it to the root system.

For example, it is not recommended to pour water on the onion - it may rot. It is better to combine top watering with tray watering. This way the moisture will be evenly distributed throughout the earthen ball, which will prevent rotting of the roots. The main rule for watering hippeastrum: it is better to underwater than to overwater. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves from dust or wash them with warm water.

During the growth of the peduncle, when it reaches a height of 12–15 cm, it is useful to water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. 5-6 days after this, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer.

Hippeastrum is fertilized regularly, at the beginning of the growing season - once every two weeks with liquid nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (7:3:6) fertilizer (for deciduous plants). After the leaves appear, to stimulate the active formation of buds, hippeastrum requires less nitrogen and much more potassium, so the ratio of mineral components changes to 4:6:12 (for flowering plants). The frequency of feeding is maintained.

A month before the onset of the dormant period, hippeastrum needs fertilizers with a small amount of nitrogen and phosphorus and a large amount of potassium (4: 4: 12).

Carefully read the directions for applying fertilizers on the packaging and do not exceed the specified concentration of minerals. Otherwise you may get burned root system plants.

Timely balanced feeding promotes high-quality flowering and growth of foliage mass. The bases of the leaves form the scales of the bulb and it increases in size. With insufficient nutrition or complete absence of fertilizing, the bulb will use nutrients accumulated from the leaves, but they are not enough to ensure flowering.

Some secrets of flowering

Sometimes hippeastrum disappoints gardeners by refusing to bloom. Why? There may be several reasons:

1. Most often, the plant does not throw out a peduncle due to exhaustion of the bulb. Hippeastrum requires a significant amount of nutrients for flowering. It is not surprising that the soil in the pot quickly becomes depleted. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to fertilize regularly and in sufficient quantities.
2. A plant affected by pests (spider mites, scale insects or scale insects) tries to fight them and does not have the strength to flower.
3. Hippeastrum does not bloom even when the bulb rots, which occurs due to waterlogging of the soil.

To admire the blooming hippeastrum year after year, you should not allow such situations. It is also useful to know some tricks of experienced gardeners to ensure 100% flowering of this plant:

• treating the bulb before planting with hot (43–45 ºC) water for three hours will cause the plant to bloom in three weeks;
• if you stop watering in August, move the plant to a dark, dry place and keep it there until the end of January, and then resume watering, the flowers will delight you in 1.5 months;
• If you cut off all the leaves in July and do not water the hippeastrum for a month, and introduce a liquid complex fertilizer with the first watering, the flowers will bloom in August or September.

To avoid burning the roots, fertilizer should be applied only after preliminary moistening of the soil.

Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to cut off the withered peduncle, continuing to water and fertilize. And prepare the plant for proper rest (rest period). The next flowering directly depends on this.

Rest period

The natural dormant period of the hippeastrum lasts quite a long time: from September to January. If your plant grew outdoors in the summer, by the beginning of autumn you need to bring it into the house and gradually reduce watering until the leaves stop completely and dry out. You can independently trim the yellowed leaves from which the bulb has already taken nutrients.

The quality of the next flowering depends on the dormant period

After this, you should place (or place the pot with the plant on its side) in a dark and cool (5–12 ° C) room. Many gardeners keep them at more high temperature- about 17–18 °C. The soil must be lightly moistened once every 2–3 weeks to prevent the roots from drying out. It is not recommended to wet or spray the bulb.

The dormant period should last 1.5–3 months, depending on the planned time of subsequent flowering of the plant. During this time, the hippeastrum does not “show signs of life.” The development of leaves and peduncles occurs only inside the bulb.

After the rest period, it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up. Leaves and flower stalks appear on the surface of the bulb.

Simultaneous appearance of leaves and peduncle

Problems waking up after wintering

If the bulb does not wake up, you can, of course, be patient and wait for it to awaken on its own. But, as a rule, a “late” bulb will not produce full flowering.

In this case, it is worth remembering in what state the plant “retired”. After all, the peduncle is formed in the axil of every fourth leaf. If last year the green mass was not sufficiently expanded, the bulb will be weakened.

And if there were fewer than four leaves, then the hippeastrum will probably refuse to bloom in the new season. Dry content can hardly help here. It is necessary to provide a very warm temperature, actively water and feed.

Care errors and their correction

Caring for hippeastrum is not very difficult, but it is necessary to follow the rules of watering, fertilizing and lighting at different periods of the plant’s life cycle.

Common mistakes in caring for hippeastrum - table

Care errors	Their manifestation	Fixes
No rest period (air temperature above 18°C, regular watering and/or fertilizing)	Lack of flower bud formation and, as a result, flowering.	Follow the described rules of watering and fertilizing, maintain temperature regime, corresponding to each stage of the plant life cycle.
Low air temperature (below 17°C) during flowering
Poor lighting during active growth
Violation of the rules of watering and fertilizing (lack of it)
Overwatering	Abrupt cessation of growth, rotting of the bulb, development of pests in the soil.	Dig it up, free it from the soil, remove damaged parts of the plant if necessary, and replant it in clean soil.
Keeping at low temperature or damp	Darkening or blackening of flowers.	Cut off damaged flowers, move the plant to a warm, dry place and maintain optimal growing conditions.
Insufficient feeding with potassium fertilizers or keeping them in too dry a room during the growing season	Browning of leaf tips.	Feed with mineral fertilizer containing macro- and microelements and fertilize in accordance with the phase of plant development, humidify the air.
Lighting too bright	Fading flowers.	Provide diffuse lighting, avoiding direct sunlight.

Diseases and pests of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is not too susceptible to disease. It is most often affected by red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis), red rot and downy mildew. Some pests can also bother this plant: spider mites, scale insects, aphids, and scale insects. You can determine what ails a plant by its appearance.

Reproduction

Hippeastrums reproduce in two ways: seed and vegetative.

Seed method

The seed method is quite complex and time-consuming. Seeds are formed only 1.5–2 months after flowering. But they do not form on their own. It is necessary to artificially pollinate the pistils and stamens. The grown ovary has the appearance of a large tricuspid box.

Ripening of hippeastrum seeds

Inside the box there are rows of flattened seeds of irregular round shape. They are characterized by a black color with a brown tint and the presence of thin black wings.

Bulb separation

They are separated with a sterile sharp instrument, treating the cuts with crushed coal. Planted in accordance with the rules for planting an adult bulb.

For two years, the newly planted plant is not deprived of foliage and is not put to rest. The growth of the bulb and the formation of a peduncle in it depends on the intensity of leaf growth. With good care, the children will throw out flower stalks in 2-3 years.

Dividing the bulb

Split onion

Division is carried out during the maximum accumulation of nutrients in the bulb - in November.

Division process algorithm:

1. Remove the top layer of soil, leaving only the bottom of the bulb in the soil.
2. Remove external dry scales.
3. Cut off the leaves along with the top of the bulb.
4. Cut the onion into four equal parts to the surface of the soil.
5. Insert knitting needles with a diameter of 5–6 cm into the cuts to prevent the parts of the bulb from closing.
6. Follow all the rules for caring for an adult plant.
7. When the leaves appear, fertilize and continue fertilizing according to the standard scheme.
8. Next spring, divide the bulb and plant the parts in separate flowerpots.

You can divide the onion in another way: cut it, leaving a piece of bottom and scales in each part. It is useful to sprinkle the sections with charcoal or activated carbon. Plant the resulting slices in a light peat mixture.

surface planting in light substrate

After 40–50 days, babies appear and need to be planted in pots in the spring.

Attention! When seating, one must not forget about the presence of toxic substances in hippeastrum bulbs and adhere to safety rules

At the end of winter, lilies bloom on the windowsills of many apartments. This is the colloquial name for hippeastrum of the amaryllis family. Large flowers of different shades, collected in inflorescences, delight the eye on the eve of spring and give a good mood. This article contains useful tips for caring for indoor hippeastrum at home.

In nature, the “cavalier star”, as hippeastrum is translated, grows in the tropical part of the American continent. It is found on mountain slopes and plateaus of Venezuela, Mexico, and Brazil. In the eighteenth century, sailors and traders began to bring exotic plants to Europe from their trips overseas and care for them. Botanists began researching and describing unknown plants. At the same time, the construction of greenhouses began, which appeared in botanical gardens and private estates.

Hippeastrum in natural conditions

At this time, botanists discovered and described several species of lilies, which were called amaryllis. At the beginning of the 19th century, a new genus was identified - hippeastrum. It also includes some types of amaryllis. This led to many hippeastrum being called amaryllis. This misconception still persists among amateur gardeners.

And only in 1954, at a congress of botanists around the world, it was confirmed that there is only one species belonging to the amaryllis family, called Amaryllis beautiful. At the same time, there are about eighty species of hippeastrum belonging to the same family.

Appearance

Hybrid hippeastrum, grown at home, has long, wide leaves, reaching seven centimeters in width and more than half a meter in length. The plant's bulb is large, up to ten centimeters in diameter. The peduncle often exceeds one meter. There are large flowers on it, the diameter of which reaches twenty centimeters. The number of flowers on a peduncle can vary from two to ten. Hippeastrum flowers come in a variety of colors and shades - from dark red to white. Colors with dots, spots of a different color, with a transition of shades from the funnel to the edge of the flower are common.

Differences between Hippeastrum and Amaryllis

People often confuse amaryllis and hippeastrum, because the plants look very similar and belong to the same family. But they have significant differences, which are shown in the table.

	Amaryllis	Hippeastrum
Motherland	South Africa	Tropics of America
Bulb shape	Pear-shaped, with gray scales	Round or elongated, with brown-yellow scales
Number of flowers in inflorescence	From 6 to 12	From 2 to 6, less often up to 9-10
Flowering time	Autumn	End of winter - beginning of spring
Peduncle	Without cavity	Hollow inside
Leaves	Narrow, grooved, smooth	Depending on the type, they can be smooth or rough, elongated

Hippeastrum has become widespread as a houseplant due to its unpretentiousness. It is enough to comply simple rules care during the period of dormancy and flowering, and it will delight you with its flowers. The big advantage of hippeastrum is the possibility of forcing, which allows you to achieve flowering by a certain date.

Varieties of indoor Hippeastrum

The abundance of “cavalier star” species required their classification. IN different countries highlight their own color groups. Basically, varieties of hippeastrum are divided into simple and double, orchid-like, with long-tubular flowers and miniature hybrids.

Let's look at the most popular indoor varieties.

Lady Jane

Variety Lady Jane has large double flowers of a peach hue with pink veins in the center of the petals. The diameter of the flowers reaches twenty centimeters.

Hippeastrum Leopolda

Hippeastrum Leopolda often found in home collections. Pink petals end with a white border. Inside a flower White color gradually acquires a pale green tint.

Hippeastrum spotted

Hippeastrum spotted- a low plant that throws out leaves after flowers appear. The petals are cream-colored and decorated with red dots, and the throat is yellowish-green.

Royal (Regina)

In the variety Royal (Regina) a flower of a rich red hue appears on a peduncle about half a meter high. Leaves appear after flowering. The number of colors ranges from two to four.

Narrow-leaved

Variety Narrow-leaved It is distinguished by narrow, slightly curved orange petals. The number of buds on one peduncle can reach nine.

parrot

TO rare species applies Hippeastrum Parrot-like. Its wide petals of a light green hue are decorated with longitudinal cherry-colored stripes. The peduncle, 90 cm high, is crowned with two to four buds.

Reticulate

Hippeastrum reticularis refers to low-growing varieties. Its peduncle does not grow higher than half a meter, and up to five buds of bright pink color with darker veins appear on it, forming a mesh pattern on the petals.

Landing

Pay attention to the red dots

Before planting the bulb, you need to pay attention to its condition. A healthy bulb should not have a red border and/or red dots, which indicate the presence of a fungal disease. If the bulb is purchased, then it should have dry brownish scales with living roots. If there are dents or grooves on it, then it is better to refuse such a purchase.

The pot for planting is selected so that there is a finger gap between the bulb and the wall, but no more than three centimeters. It is necessary to take into account that the plant grows tall, so the pot must be stable and deep enough.

How to plant hippeastrum? Drainage up to two centimeters thick is poured onto the bottom. For drainage, you can use expanded clay, small pieces of shards, and bricks. Then follows a layer of soil, which is poured into a mound. You can add a handful of sand under the roots of the bulb. Having placed the bulb on a mound, straighten the roots and carefully sprinkle with soil. The ground level should not be higher than the middle of the bulb.

Important! Watering after planting is carried out in a tray or along the edge of the pot, avoiding water getting on the bulb.

Hippeastrum is not picky about soil. To ensure lush flowering, it is recommended to prepare the soil yourself from the following components, which are taken in a 2:1:1:1 ratio:

• turf land;
• humus;
• peat;
• river sand.

A small amount of wood ash and bone meal are added to the mixture. If there is no flour, add superphosphate at the rate of two teaspoons per liter of soil. Phosphorus is necessary for the plant to bloom lushly. You can buy a ready-made earthen mixture for bulbous plants.

Important! If, after planting a new bulb, no leaves appear after a month and a half, then it is not viable.

Transfer

Hippeastrum is transplanted annually for young plants, then every other year. And old plants are replanted once every two to three years. But if the plant is not replanted, then the top layer of soil must be replaced annually.

When to replant hippeastrum? Traditionally, transplantation is carried out in the spring, after flowering has ended. But you can also replant in the fall, before the start of the dormant period. In the fall, plants that were planted (taken out) into the garden for the summer are replanted.

Before planting in a new pot, the bulb must be carefully examined for wounds and rot. It is better to throw away diseased bulbs. The onion is placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. Long roots are trimmed, the cut areas and wounds are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. The planting process and selection of land is described above.

Watering and fertilizing

Proper watering for hippeastrum is of great importance and depends on the period of plant development.

In September, before the start of the dormant period, watering is reduced. By the end of September, watering can be stopped completely if the flower is in a cool place. If you had to leave it in a warm room, you can slightly moisten the soil. During this period, the plant lives off the nutrients accumulated in the bulb.

After the end of the dormant period and the appearance of a peduncle, the plant is transferred to a warm, bright place. As the peduncle grows, watering is increased. From the beginning of flowering until the onset of the dormant period, the flower needs regular watering, avoiding water getting on the bulb. It is better to pour water into the pan.

Hippeastrum is fertilized with mineral fertilizers. It is advisable to use two types of fertilizers. In the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, fertilizing is applied to deciduous plants. Fertilizer for flowering plants is applied from the moment the buds appear until the end of flowering. The second stage of fertilizing for flowering plants begins from the end of leaf growth until the onset of the dormant period. The frequency of fertilizer application is from two to four times a month.

The plant does not require spraying. You can periodically wipe the leaves from dust with a damp sponge.

Where to put the pot

Hippeastrum loves sunlight

The plant loves sunlight, so it does well on windows facing south, southeast and southwest. In summer, on the south side it must be shaded from scorching rays. After flowering, leaves grow and accumulate in the bulb. useful substances, formation of scales.

The plant develops well at temperatures from 17 to 23 degrees Celsius, but higher temperatures do not harm it. During the dormant period, it is recommended to keep the flower in a cool, shaded place with a temperature of 10-15 degrees. If it is not possible to place the flower in a cool place, then you can leave it in the room, providing rare and weak soil moisture.

Rest period

Hippeastrum has a dormant period at the end of September - beginning of October. Most species have leaves that die and must then be removed. Some gardeners create an artificial dormant period for the flower, the duration of which should be one and a half to two months. Thus, you can achieve flowering by a certain date or two or three times a year.

It is possible to breed hippeastrum without a pronounced dormant period. It is kept in a regular sunny place with watering as the soil dries. With this regime, the plant can delight you with flowering in spring or autumn.

Hippeastrum flowering

With proper care and a dormant period, hippeastrum blooms in late winter - early spring. In mature plants, flowering is possible one more time - in summer. The number of peduncles depends on the care summer period and the number of sheets formed. The plant has a peculiarity: flower stalks are formed through four leaves. Therefore, than large quantity leaves will grow before the dormant period, the more flower stalks will appear on your plant. It is desirable that the number of leaves be at least seven or eight.

Hippeastrum blooms in late winter or early spring

If the bulb was purchased in winter and you want to quickly admire the flowering, it is recommended to keep it in warm water (forty degrees) for a couple of hours before planting. After planting, carefully water the soil and place in a warm, bright place. The next watering is carried out after the peduncle has grown ten centimeters.

After flowering ends, the peduncle must be trimmed, the plant is regularly watered and fed.

Why doesn't Hippeastrum bloom?

If the hippeastrum does not bloom, this means that the conditions of detention were violated:

• in spring and summer the plant did not receive the necessary minerals;
• lack of light during the growing season;
• the plant was at a low temperature.

Reproduction of Hippeastrum

Hippeastrum can be propagated in several ways.

Children's department

The easiest way is to separate the children. When transplanting, carefully separate the bulbs, the diameter of which should be at least two centimeters. The bulbs with roots are immersed in the ground two centimeters. The new plant will begin to bloom in three to four years.

Bulb division

Unfortunately, not all types of hippeastrum produce babies. In addition, if the maintenance regime is violated, baby bulbs may not appear. Therefore, if it is necessary to propagate a flower, the method of dividing the bulbs is used.

The leaves of the bulb are trimmed, the roots are trimmed to two centimeters. The bulb is cut into 2-4 parts so that the bottom with roots remains on each part, otherwise it will not take root. The cutting areas are sprinkled with activated carbon and left to dry for two to three days. When planting, only the lower part is deepened into the soil. The planting mixture is prepared from peat and sand in equal proportions. You can cut the onion into four parts, but not all the way. To dry the incisions, sticks are inserted into them. The cut onion is planted, covering only the lower uncut part with soil. It is recommended to water the separated bulbs from a tray. After some time, each slice gives birth to a baby. Propagation by dividing the bulb is recommended to be carried out in late autumn, while the bulb has a maximum supply of nutrients. The process of dividing the bulb is clearly shown in the video.

Reproduction by scales

The third method of division is called scale reproduction. With this method, the onion is cut into pieces (8-16) so that part of the bottom remains on each piece. The knife is disinfected with alcohol before cutting the onion. The cut slices are sprinkled with Kornevin and planted in sand or sphagnum moss. In this case, the tops should be outside. Containers for germination are placed in a warm place (at least 20 degrees).

Onion slices are planted in sand or sphagnum

Propagation by seeds

You can get new plants from seeds. To do this, you need to pollinate the flower and wait for the seeds to ripen. This will take up to two months. Seeds must be sown immediately after collection into the ground to a depth of one centimeter. After two to three weeks, sprouts appear. Containers with plants are placed in a bright place, shaded from the sun. This method of propagation is used by breeders to develop new varieties, because the bulb loses many useful substances.

Video: Hippeastrum from seeds at home.

Diseases and pests

Hippeastrum is a disease-resistant plant. Most often he suffers from a “red burn”. This name hides the insidious fungal disease stagonosporosis. Its signs can appear both on the leaves and on the bulb. Oblong red spots appear on the leaves. Red spots can also be found on the bulbs. The bulb becomes covered with wounds, softens and the plant may die. One of the signs of the disease is a stop in the growth and addition of leaves.

Red burn on leaves

Red burn on the bulb

When buying a bulb, you need to carefully examine it so that there are no red spots. The husk should be shiny and brownish in color. The head itself is solid, without any dents. If signs of disease appear at home, it is necessary to remove the bulb and inspect it. If there are small spots, they are cut out, and the wounds are treated with brilliant green or copper oxychloride. After drying for a week, the bulb is planted in fresh soil, pre-treated with a fungicide. The bulb is planted so that the bottom and roots are covered with soil. If the bulb is severely damaged and softened, it must be destroyed.

To prevent damage by Fusarium, the bulb is soaked for a couple of hours in a solution of potassium permanganate before planting. The disease manifests itself as yellowing of the leaves and drying out of the plant. The bulb is treated with brilliant green, and the soil is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Among the pests, hippeastrum can be affected by spider mites, thrips and narcissus flies. The appearance of thrips is indicated by white spots and stripes on the outside of the leaves. The insects themselves can be found on the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out two or three treatments with Actellik, Fitoverm or a similar drug with an interval of five days.

The daffodil fly lays eggs in the neck of a flower. The larvae penetrate deep into the bulb and damage it. The plant stops growing and blooming. It is recommended to check the bulb and treat it with Aktara. If the damage is severe, you have to get rid of the diseased plant.

Problems during cultivation

• With insufficient watering, the leaves turn pale and the flowers droop their heads. During flowering, it is necessary to keep the soil slightly moist.
• At low temperatures, the flowers begin to turn black. It is necessary to move the plant to a warm place.
• If the leaves turn pale and wither, this indicates excess moisture in the pot. It is necessary to reduce watering, after drying the soil.
• If the flowers become faded, then you need to shade them from the sun's rays.
• Hippeastrum leaves turn yellow and dry out on the eve of the dormant period. If this happens at another time, then pay attention to the violation in care (damp or cold). Check the plant for pests that can cause yellowing of the leaves.

With proper care and compliance with the watering and fertilizing regime, hippeastrum will delight you with its flowering every year.