Chicago men's style of the 30s. Chicago style in clothing

Basic geometric figure in the style of the 30s it becomes a triangle - broad shoulders and narrow hips. Joan Crawford's 1932 shoulder pads, the 1933 pagoda shoulder, and her invention, the British Army Guards shoulder, are as popular as ever. All kinds of inserts and yokes in the form of a triangle, a deep V-shaped neckline on the back of evening dresses, skirts narrow at the hips and widening down from the knees, wide pointed collars, bows, scarves on the neck, original capes - all these are elements from the outfits of the 30s years.

Fabrics - satin, silk, which draped perfectly and fit a slender female figure, especially when cut on the bias, were among the most in demand. In 1936, during the winter Olympic Games ski pants appeared - wide at the hips and tapering at the ankle. High heel - wedge - an invention of Salvatore Ferragamo, made of raffia or balsa wood.

Economic difficulties that have arisen in almost all European countries and culminating in 1929, were hit by a crisis and associated unemployment. Millions of people had neither bread nor income. Now wealth was not advertised as much as it was in the 20s. Holidays were held not in clubs, but in private homes, and in a narrow circle. All this lasted for several years, and could not help but be reflected in fashion.

At the same time, the development of technology continued. And one of the main inventions - the invention of sound cinema - made actors talking from screens closer and more understandable to everyone. Therefore, the influence of films increased; new fashions, previously promoted by theater or cabaret, were now shown to wider masses on screens. Popular actors became role models in everything - not only in behavior, but also in clothing. What the stars wore was fashionable; their outfits were immediately copied.

Actresses Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Jean Harlow popularized clothing that emphasized curves female body. They became the trendsetters of style. Marlene Dietrich introduced trousers into fashion, Greta Garbo - a suit male type, with broad shoulders. Fashion played a role in some films of that time. main role. And designers quickly saw how useful cinema could be.

The rectangular silhouette and simplicity of cut began to disappear, gradually acquiring the features of a female silhouette with a waist, chest, and hips. The ideal was a woman with a slender figure and long legs.

At a time when women of the 20s danced the Charleston in shirt dresses day and night, the ladies of the 30s, no matter how poor they were, wanted to look decent. The elegance and charm of the 1930s was especially evident in long silk evening dresses. It was silk that fell beautifully when cut on an oblique, emphasizing the figure. It was one of the most expensive materials of that period. And all the fashion designers then picked up Vionnet’s brilliant idea of ​​cutting fabric on the bias. This cut gave elasticity - the dress was tight-fitting on the chest, waist and hips, and lower down it fell with natural folds.

1930s coats and dresses

In addition, dresses with a deep neckline on the back did not need fasteners. Fabrics with a very interesting texture appeared, which in itself was already a decoration. But still, the best decoration of the evening dress was arctic fox fur. Rich ladies wore furs not only in evening wear, but also during the day. Those who could not afford this luxury replaced it with a velvet cape or a bright chiffon shawl. But there were also those for whom silk was not available. Coco Chanel took care of them. In her collection of evening dresses, she included dresses made from cotton fabrics.

Ladies' everyday outfits were lengthened, because now everything was worn to the middle of the calves. How was this done? – ... using ribbons, frills, yokes, various inserts, for example, godet inserts on skirts that started just below the hip line. Even small pieces of fur were used to trim the neckline or sleeves. The suits had a narrowed silhouette with a clearly defined waist, which was further emphasized with a belt.

The neckline was deep and the lapels were wide. They were often made from English tweeds, and therefore the suits began to be called “English”. The sewing and processing technology was almost the same as when sewing men's suit. And to liven up the suit and make it more feminine, all that was needed was a fox thrown over the shoulder or a bouquet of violets attached to the lapel. A blouse with a large bow was worn under the jacket. To emphasize the width of the shoulders, various decorative elements were used - large bows or silk scarves, frills, flounces.

In 1933, Herm?s released its first famous silk scarf.

Thanks to thin waist The corsetry industry has returned and been revived. But in this case it was just a slight compression, and the corsets were worn just below the bust line. The chest has risen again, in contrast to its almost complete absence in the 20s. The American company Warners began producing bras.

The set of ladies' clothing certainly included hats. And it was the time of the craziest hats. While purchasing a dress, especially one made from expensive material, was not easy, many people tried to create a hat, even using their design skills.

From the beginning of the 30s, hats were small and flat; a lady could fasten them on her hair with pins. Then came berets and beanies, hats in the shape of plates, bells, and generally in the shape of everything one could only imagine. The variety of fancy hat models was so rich that there was no question of unity of style in them. They had only one thing in common - the ladies wore these hats slightly askew on their foreheads.

The most famous hat maker was Elsa Schiaparelli. Hats from the 30s are a completely separate issue.

In addition to hats, which not everyone could afford, turbans twisted from colored silk, lace shawls, hairnets made from twisted silk, tulle and studded with colored beads became widespread.

How were your legs dressed? Stockings were the same as in the 20s, made of natural or artificial silk. In 1939 they began producing nylon ones. The shoes had a heel of 6-8 cm, medium thickness, there were also low heels, as well as various options with an instep strap and a button closure. The cut of the shoes was not deep, or rather medium, some models were completely closed, the toes were rounded and slightly narrowed. Two-tone shoes were very popular.

Gloves were an indispensable accessory in the wardrobe of a lady of the 30s; they were even worn with a summer dress with short sleeves.

In a hat, gloves and a flat handbag, the lady looked elegantly dressed. Those who did not have the means to decorate themselves with expensive outfits complemented their existing outfit with fashionable accessories - a hat, an envelope handbag and gloves. Then the image was considered complete in accordance with the fashionable requirements of those years. Handbags were especially helpful. They were in the form of envelopes without handles with a latch in the form of a frame, which at that time began to be made of plastic.

The innovation of the decade was sunglasses, which every self-respecting fashionista was obliged to have. Trousers, and especially evening or beach pajamas, have become an integral part of the wardrobe of every elegant lady. Although it was only in 1939 that Vogue magazine dared for the first time to offer trousers with a pullover as clothing for a woman. Walking trousers were gradually adopted. One of the forms of sportswear was trousers-skirts, trousers for hunting, which were gradually shortened and became the forerunners of shorts.

Along with pajamas appeared various shapes robes made from flannel, flannel, satin, appeared new type home clothes - dressing gowns.

The coats also had a fitted, straight silhouette, mid-calf length, with wide lapels, single-breasted and double-breasted, mostly with large patch pockets, and large buttons. The waist was sometimes emphasized with a belt. Fur coats were fashionable. Capes, which were both short, barely covering the shoulders, and long, just below the hips - capes, became widespread.

Decorations. Jewelry, who had it, was of course in fashion, brooches and necklaces were especially popular. Most were content with artificial stones and rhinestones. The latter were sewn on expensive fabrics and imitated jewelry. A popular decoration were artificial flowers made of fabric or rhinestones. The most fashionable were violets; they were used to decorate straw hats.

The 30s were the years when women paid great attention to sports, especially since sports were promoted in all countries. Sports associations were created throughout Europe, and everyone, trying to keep up with the times, began to become passionate about sports - some in cars, some in air sports. Tennis, golf, cycling, swimming, and skiing remained favorite forms of active leisure.

It has become fashionable to spend time relaxing in the mountains, skiing, and taking mountain walks. And here Tyrolean style clothing was copied by fashion. But it gradually became clear that political passions in Europe were taking on a dangerous hue. And already since 1934, fashion, as if anticipating the approaching disaster, responded with changes in clothing lines.

The clothes take on the character of a uniform - angular wide shoulders, narrow skirts just below the knee, gloves with cuffs, shoulder bags. Shoes have become more massive - first wedge-shaped heels appear, then platforms, as well as shoes without heels, and, interestingly, the absence of makeup.

It was an alarming time; it became clear to everyone that these were the last peaceful days before the great catastrophe. And yet, the period of the 30s can be called the period of greatest taste, a time of new elegance. The 30s are still a source of inspiration for designers.

Themed parties do not lose their relevance throughout the year. Whether it's New Year, a birthday or a wedding, a theme party will make the holiday brighter, more interesting and richer. Recently, parties that reflect the spirit of a certain era have become increasingly popular: the style of the 80s and 90s, holidays in the spirit of dudes and retro. One of the most current themed celebrations is a Chicago-style party. Feel like a real gangster, admire beautiful and sexy companions, drink expensive cognac and smoke a cigar, plunge into the world of jazz and swing - all this is provided by a Chicago-style party.

Dress code

If you are invited to a Chicago party, be prepared that you will not pass face control without the right clothes. Women should wear retro shift dresses with straps, fur capes or, better yet, colorful boas, fishnet stockings and stilettos. You can wear small hats or ribbons with a feather on the side, but the main thing is a retro hairstyle. Complete the look with diamonds (you can use jewelry), pearl threads and a long mouthpiece. Men should choose a white shirt, vest, smart striped suit, suspenders and a hat. For accessories, it is best to take a Thompson machine gun, a cigar and a watch on a chain.

Party preparation

Is the Chicago-style party taking place under your strict leadership? Think about what the invitations will look like, how you will decorate the room, and who you will invite. So, invitations can be made in black and white and stylized as old newspapers. Pay special attention to the surroundings of the holiday. It's no secret that a Chicago-style gangster party should correspond to the era of the 20s and 30s. Hang posters and old photographs of Chicago and New York on the walls. You can find posters with the inscription “Wanted”, insert photographs of invited guests there and also hang them in the hall. Pay special attention to the music: light jazz should sound throughout the entire party, you can diversify the evening with swing or Argentine tango.

Entertainment

It wouldn’t hurt to come up with competitions for a Chicago-style party, it would be boring without them. The most popular should be card games, you can play poker and blackjack; playing roulette will excite guests. Then you can include various competitions in the evening program, for example, to determine who is more accurate and strong. Set up an impromptu shooting range or darts and enjoy the spectacle. You can determine the strongest one through arm wrestling competitions. And for girls, you can include in the program a competition for the best dance or vocal improvisation.

Evening menu

Feature of the 20-30s. - “prohibition”, so all drinks must be served “underground”. Pour whiskey, wine, bourbon into teapots, serve them in regular cups. The best food would be tartlets, mini sandwiches with red caviar, plates with cheese and olives. If you are planning long gatherings, you can organize the serving of fresh pasta, pizza or steaks with sauce. This will make your Chicago-style party atmospheric and unforgettable!

The first thing that comes to mind when you hear the word “Chicago” is the famous musical starring Richard Gere. Bright costumes, recognizable songs, gorgeous dances - the creators of this film spared no expense on the scenery and costumes. Thanks to this, they very accurately conveyed the atmosphere of the 30s that reigned in gangster America.

History of origin

Back in 1920, the US Congress passed the Eighteenth Amendment to the Constitution, which activated a complete ban on the production, import and consumption of alcohol. At this time, underground bars and cabarets begin to appear, where fun reigns all night long. The city of Chicago, the city most infested with gangsters, finds itself in the center of events. All these events are reflected in clothing.

Gray everyday life, hard work, financial crisis - all this is too depressing for young people. It was at this time that the world-famous Chicago style was born. Everyone wants to plunge into the world of entertainment, but there is a strict dress code for clients, because they must be rich and willing to spend their money on entertainment.

Enterprising girls are forced to use tricks, so they begin to shorten their dresses and complement them with bright elements and accessories. Thus, by the age of 30, a new style in clothing, which for a long time was relevant exclusively for nightlife. During the day, only a few dared to wear such clothes - too bright outfits aroused the suspicion of the police, who sought to close all underground clubs.

Peculiarities

home distinguishing feature Chicago style is incredible luxury in everything. The appearance of this style revolutionized the fashion world: the modesty and restraint of the classics was forgotten for a long time.

The cut of dresses is changing dramatically. Sleeves and shoulders give way to thin straps, silhouettes hug the figure, and the length of the hem allows you to see women's knees. Cutouts and décolletés burst into fashion like a bombshell. Expensive fabrics and incredibly luxurious jewelry make this style accessible only to a select few. Women all over America only dream of such outfits, but in order to earn money for such a dress, most of them need to work almost their entire lives.

At this time, a lot of attention is paid to accessories: hats, ostrich feather boas, fur capes, jewelry with precious stones - the brighter the accessories, the more successful their owner. An important part of the Chicago style is makeup and hairstyles. Bright shadows and lipsticks on pale, powdered faces and hair styled in neat waves make a woman’s image even brighter and more attractive.

Style at the modern stage

Today the fashion world has become calmer and more measured. The situational nature of the images came to the fore. It’s hard to imagine where you could apply a 30s style look other than theme parties. However, certain elements of this style are constantly coming back into fashion. So, today it is relevant to use hats, gloves, small handbags and other bright accessories in images. Dresses with torn textured embellishments are also coming back into fashion.

In the world of evening fashion, images with big amount stones, tight silhouettes, deep necklines and cutouts. Many media personalities choose the “Chicago” style for their stage images or for appearances.

Wedding Dresses

A wedding is a special day for every girl, however, recently non-traditional themed weddings have come into fashion. This decision makes every wedding unique and memorable not only for the newlyweds, but also for their guests. The focus of such a wedding, like any other, is, of course, the newlyweds. And the special attention of everyone around is paid to the bride’s outfit.

For a wedding in the style of a gangster film, a Chicago style dress is perfect. Such a dress should have a tight, sexy cut, as well as a rich and charming finish. Ostrich feathers, lace, small stones and rhinestones on rich and exquisite milky fabric - this dress will not leave any fashionista indifferent.

Instead of a veil, it is better to complement the look with a vintage pillbox hat or a hat with a veil. A lace cap, a wide silk headband with a bow, or a thin ribbon on the forehead will also look great. An excellent addition would be short smooth gloves, a boa or a woven scarf for the shoulders.

Stylish looks

Paris doll

The popular actress of comedy and horror films, Paris Hilton, is also known throughout the world as a businesswoman, model and a huge fashion fan. Over the years of her popularity and fame, she acquired the image socialite, which does not miss a single major party. Among them, of course, there were parties in the style of the 20s and 30s.

For these holidays, Paris appeared in evening looks in the Chicago style. As a rule, the basis of these images were black short dresses decorated with Swarovski stones, lace, thread pendants or voluminous tulle jabots. Each of the looks was successfully complemented by stylish hairstyles with ribbons or hats.

Chicago in Russian

Larisa Dolina can easily be called the main fan of jazz, the time of gangsters and the Chicago style in Russia. She regularly uses the Chicago style in her stage and everyday looks. Moreover: she uses both women's and men's fashion elements of the time.

Her image in a black trouser suit with white stripes became very bright and unforgettable. This suit is very similar to the classic image of a typical gangster familiar to TV viewers, but it is sewn in such a way that all the advantages of Larisa Dolina’s figure are perfectly emphasized. It doesn't look rough or baggy. A deep neckline reveals a chic lace corset, and an elegant flower on the collar of the jacket adds even more sophistication and femininity to the look.

The twenties of the last century are considered the golden age of literature, cinema and jazz. In many ways, this period became a time of change, which is reflected in the fashion of those times.

History of the early 20th century

The twenties of the last century were a period when a lot changed in the life of both America and Europe. After the end of the First World War, people gradually restored their lives, trying to forget about the past and relearn how to live for today.

In America, the main emphasis was on the development of cinema and the popularization of jazz. Young girls began to focus on the images of film stars, dressing in spectacular dresses. Men to create stylish looks inspired by gangsters. Closed outfits in dark colors classic style complemented with hats and stylish bow ties.

As for fashion in the USSR, it, of course, developed in a different direction. At this time, the country was experiencing a change of power. The 20th century is different in that girls and women began to fight for equal rights with men. Therefore, Soviet representatives of the fairer sex began to dress in trousers and suits in men's style.

But 1920 is not only famous for the popularization of male professions among women. Leisure activities of that time also diversified. Underground entertainment developed in the USSR, Europe, and America. Men and women began to gather in bars and restaurants, dancing and listening to rhythmic music. Therefore, bright evening dresses with an abundance of decorations have come into fashion.

In previous years, the ideal was a feminine, curvy figure. In the twenties of the last century the situation changed. Designers began to idealize girls with a boyish body type. Short hair, a thin figure and small breasts - that’s what was valued in those days. Therefore, designers abandoned corsets and full skirts, visually changing the female figure.

The fashion of the twenties of the last century was created by such eminent designers as Jean Patou, Coco Chanel and Jean Poiret. The most remarkable things that have appeared in the women's wardrobe can be called small black dress from Chanel and cloche hats.

Fashion 20-30s

We can talk about the style of this period for quite a long time. It consists of small details that complement all things from the twentieth century.

First of all, loose-fitting dresses came into fashion. They did not emphasize the femininity of the figure, and the emphasis shifted from the waist to the hips. Now dresses were complemented not with corsets, but with a belt or drapery at the hip line.

The emphasis has also shifted from the chest. Girls stopped decorating the top of their dresses with ruffles and bows. The style of outfits has become more closed. At the same time, they opened their arms and back.

Sleeveless dresses were very popular. They were complemented with thin straps or short cap sleeves. An open back in the absence of underwear looked even more provocative in those days than a deep neckline.

Another provocative detail is the shortened length of the dresses. Strict Victorian dresses that completely concealed the legs are a thing of the past. The length of the dresses was initially shortened to ankle level, and then to the knee. By the end of the twenties of the last century, some especially risky fashionistas began to wear even mini lengths.

Many dresses in those days were complemented with embroidery. Those who could afford it ordered hand-embroidered dresses. Such outfits were expensive, but they looked simply incredible. They were embroidered not only with colored threads, but also with cords, ribbons or braid. Such compositions looked voluminous and individual.

The accessories that appeared in the images of girls of that time also deserve special attention. Both everyday and evening looks were complemented with voluminous boas made of fur or feathers. They were worn slung over one shoulder.

Both men and women began to complement their outfits with long ties bright colors. It looked quite unusual, especially in combination with the white collar shirts that were popular at that time.

Girls also wore scarves and shawls. Very often they were more expensive and even more attractive than the dresses themselves. The shawls were decorated with long fringes. In terms of costume jewelry, long strings of natural pearls, small earrings and voluminous bracelets were popular.

Compact handbags have become an important addition to women's outfits. They were present in both everyday and evening looks. A less noticeable detail that complemented women's outfits of that time was dark stockings. Summer models were made from natural silk, and winter ones from wool or thick cotton.

Gangster style

But not only dresses were popular in the twenties. In the wake of the popularity of gangster groups, stylish suits came into fashion. They were worn not only by men, but also by girls

Such suits were distinguished by a classic cut and the use of predominantly dark colors. Models for girls were more feminine - the shape of the collar was different, and the jacket or jacket was more fitted.

Casual wear for women

IN Everyday life most girls in the twentieth century wore simple, low-waisted dresses. The silhouette of such dresses was as simple as possible. But a lot of attention was paid to various decorative elements. It is thanks to this decor that the style of the twenties of the last century is still popular today.

Also, many skirts were complemented with uneven cuts, fasteners, voluminous folds or additional tiers of fabric, making them even fuller. In combination with an extremely simple top, such skirts looked very impressive.

Party Outfits

Evening dresses deserve special attention. Night life in the twenties it gained momentum, so girls began to pay a lot of attention to creating appropriate images.

To make dancing more comfortable, girls wore shorter and less fluffy dresses that did not hinder their movements. Evening looks were complemented with capes, strands of pearls and other bright accessories.

Modern retro looks

Today, the fashion of 1920-1930 attracts the attention of designers. Therefore, many elements of this style are present in modern clothing. Many designers complement their dresses with twenties-style embroidery or original fringe.

There are also classic dresses in the style of the twenties. A full-fledged image of a lady from the twenties of the last century will look good at various themed parties or corporate events.

Who would suit an image in this style?

If you want to replenish your wardrobe with an unusual outfit in the style of the twenties of the last century, then first of all, think about whether the chosen image suits you.

Today, the clothing style characteristic of Chicago in the 1930s is experiencing a “second youth.” Fashion designers, theme party organizers, and newlyweds planning a “gangster” wedding resort to creating images in this style. This original style of clothing, which originated in the 30s in Chicago, is characterized by a mid-length dress that has lost its sleeves, acquiring bold narrow straps, a bare back, a revealing neckline and a form-fitting silhouette. It was during this period that the word “glamor” began to be used in relation to women’s outfits.

Features of Chicago style dresses

If you imagine the image of a woman who spends time in one of the restaurants in Chicago in the 1930s in the company of her husband or lover, who is directly related to American gangsters, then its main dominant feature will be the dress. What are its features? Firstly, the Chicago style dress of the 1930s became significantly shorter, reaching to the knees. It is worth noting that in the modern interpretation, ultra-short lengths are also allowed. Secondly, the waist rose from the mid-thigh line to almost its usual position, which made the female silhouette more sophisticated. Thirdly, thin straps have appeared, allowing women to bare their shoulders and décolleté. The cut deserves special attention. Made obliquely, it beautifully outlines the female figure, making her even more attractive. This cut was often used for sewing evening dresses ankle length. By the way, in evening dresses, Chicago fashionistas welcomed the presence of a deep neckline that exposed the back. The dress was supposed to fit tightly around the upper body, expanding from the hips downwards. Another distinctive feature of the bottom is the visually extended shoulder line. This effect was achieved with neckerchiefs, stoles, scarves, ruffles and wings on straps.

The most popular materials for sewing dresses are satin, silk and chiffon, which attract attention with their gloss and shine, as well as velvet, which looks expensive and impressive. By the way, expensive fabrics in the 30s were rather an exception, since the richest social strata of American society suffered from the consequences of the Great Depression. However, thanks to sequins, glitter, rhinestones, fringe and beads, dresses made from relatively inexpensive fabrics looked glamorous.

From time to time, the image of a woman of the 30s is demonstrated by well-known fashion houses. Thus, in 2012, the entire spring-summer collection created by Ralph Lauren was dedicated to gangster glamor. You don't have to buy a new dress to create a Chicago-style look. If your wardrobe has a model of a tight-fitting silhouette with a low waist, it is enough to decorate the hem with fringe and the neckline with rhinestones. By adding sparkles and matching accessories, you can easily transform into the dream of an American gangster.

Accessories, makeup and hairstyles

An integral component female image In the 1930s there was a set of accessories consisting of shoes, gloves, a bag and a hat, all in the same color. The hat could be either miniature or wide-brimmed. Often the hair was decorated with headbands with feathers, flowers or large brooches inlaid with stones. The handbags of Chicago fashionistas were a small rectangular envelope. It was usually worn under the armpit. In cool weather, the look was complemented with fur boas. By the way, faux fur was not considered a sign of inconsistency or lack of taste. Boas from faux fur looked no worse than products made from silver fox or arctic fox. A bow around the neck, stockings, a long cigarette holder, shoes with a rounded toe, a long string of beads tied in a knot under the chest, velvet or silk long gloves with a large bell - all these details served as the finishing touches of the look.

The makeup, in keeping with the Chicago trends of the 1930s, is characterized by strongly defined lips and black-lined eyes against a background of bleached skin. Eyebrows should be thin and clearly outlined with a black pencil. When creating a look in the Chicago style of the 1930s, do not forget that the hairstyles must also match. The best decision– short bob haircut or structured shiny curls, styled in waves.