How to get rid of violet aphids. Home violet diseases - treatment and prevention

It seemed that they did everything to make the indoor plant feel comfortable and delight in flowering, but it withers, turns yellow and demonstrates an illness with all its appearance. We have included the most common Saintpaulia infections in our selection of violet diseases with photographs and their treatment. Only by understanding the reasons for their appearance, you can choose effective ways recovery.

A healthy violet pleases with juicy foliage and flowering 8-10 months a year

Care components responsible for the health of violets

Experienced flower growers have an old rule - if you want the plant to develop and feel at home, create conditions close to the homeland of growth. For violets, Saintpaulia is the tropics of East Africa with a warm and humid climate. Violations of the temperature, light, air and water regime inhibit the plant, reduce resistance to pathogenic microflora.

Beginners in floriculture, asking why violet leaves turn yellow, immediately assume the worst - infections, but this symptom is most often associated with ineffective care. We should not forget about the natural aging and death of the lower leaves of the rosette.

Now more about care.

1. Violets love light, but not bright, dazzling, but soft, diffused, it is often called daylight. From a lack of lighting, the plant ceases to bloom, from an excess - the leaves turn yellow, become stained, lose their elasticity.
2. Optimal temperature regime varies in the range of 20–25⁰ С, without sharp drops and drafts. In the cold, Saintpaulias stop growing. The combination of low temperatures with excessive watering leads to rotting of the roots and stem. Heat over 30⁰ C has a depressing effect on the plant - this is one of the reasons for the appearance of fungal and bacterial diseases.
3. Violet is capricious in relation to moisture. As a representative of the tropical flora, she prefers the soil to be moist, but not wet. Can't stand cold water and spraying. The required air humidity is achieved by micro-spraying or the pots are placed in trays with moistened expanded clay, sphagnum, gravel. Excess moisture leads to the appearance of putrefactive infections, lack - to the loss of turgor, drying out.
4. An important component of the health of violets is the right soil. It should be light, loose, moderately nutritious, allow air to pass through and ensure the outflow of excess moisture. The root system of Saintpaulia is fragile, superficial, in heavy mixtures based on garden soil, it is subject to waterlogging and decay. A lack of nutrition and trace elements, especially nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, leads to yellowing of the leaf cover. Through the soil, infection from the outside with pests and diseases most often occurs. To protect the plants, it is advisable to freeze the soil before planting for 7-10 days.

Important! If the soil is acidic (pH below 5–6), phosphates do not dissolve in it, the leaves turn yellow at the edges, and the rosette thickens. For irrigation, use a dolomite solution - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of flour in 5 liters of water. In alkaline soil (pH above 7), violet turns pale, lags behind in growth. In this case, acidified watering is needed - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of vinegar in 2.5 liters of water.

Infectious diseases of violets

Unfortunately, even with optimal care, the occurrence of violet diseases and their damage by microscopic pests cannot be ruled out. The treatment of diseased plants should be approached comprehensively: apply chemicals, optimize care, practice rejuvenation. Sometimes, in order to save the collection, one has to resort to drastic measures - the destruction of damaged specimens.

late blight

The first wake-up call that may be a harbinger of late blight is the withering of violet leaves “for no reason”, with normal humidity and regular watering. On initial stage the roots suffer, then the stem and leaves are damaged - distinct brown putrefactive spots appear on the tissues.

This disease is easier to prevent than to cure. You will have to part with the affected specimen. Pour boiling water over the planting pots, freeze the new substrate at a temperature of at least -20⁰ C. For the prevention of an earthen lump, spill it with a solution of phytosporin-M. You can renew the variety by rooting young leaves that are not affected by the infection.

Fusarium (tracheomycosis)

Another infection that has a fungal nature. Favorable conditions for the development of spores are dense, cold, waterlogged soil. The disease begins with the decay of the root system, then it is transferred to the stem (the root neck becomes thinner), the lower tier of leaves, and the rosette. The mycelium of the fungus, multiplying, clogs the vessels of the plant, therefore one of the signs of Fusarium is “vascular wilt”.

The affected violet, in order to avoid the spread of infection, it is better to throw it away with the ground, disinfect the pot. To prevent re-invasion, the new substrate is spilled with a solution of phytosporin-M or another fungicide. As a protective measure, once a month with a solution of the same preparation, it is recommended to shed all Saintpaulias (1 ml per liter of water).

powdery mildew

When spots of a whitish coating appear on violet leaves, similar to stubborn dust, we are most likely talking about powdery mildew, a disease of fungal etiology. Spores enter the flower pot with non-disinfected soil, watering, by air, along with dirt. The optimal conditions for starting an infection are a cold window sill, a wet substrate, a lack of light in the room, an unbalanced diet with excess nitrogen and potassium deficiency.

Diseased saintpaulias should be isolated from other flowers and treated with any systemic fungicide, such as foundationazole. It can be sprayed or watered - toxins will enter the plant tissue through the vessels and destroy the fungus. Enough two-time processing with an interval of 10 days. Powdery mildew prevention:

• care optimization;
• balanced diet;
• maintaining the purity of the flower collection.

Gray rot

Among the diseases of violets, gray rot or botridiasis is considered quite common. The causative agent of the infection is the fungus botrytis. It is stored in the plant components of the soil, and in conditions of high humidity begins to multiply. A sign of infection is the appearance of brown spots on all parts of the violet, covered with a smoky gray fluffy coating. The disease quickly passes into the stage of tissue decay.

At the beginning of the disease, it is enough to remove the browned parts of the violet, transplant the plant into a clean substrate and water it with a fungicide solution. At later stages, the saintpaulia, along with the soil, must be destroyed. You can prevent the appearance of gray rot with the help of preventive measures. These include:

• soil disinfection by freezing;
• watering newly transplanted plants with a solution of manganese or any antifungal drug;
• observance of a moderate water regime, especially in winter.

Diseases as a result of improper care

Some diseases of violets are not contagious, but they can destroy the plant no worse than an infection.

Vascular bacteriosis

A many-sided and insidious disease overtakes a violet at the height of summer and flowering. As soon as the heat passes through the mark of 30⁰ C, the plant begins to have problems with metabolism and moisture, there is a "blockage of blood vessels". Bacteria multiply intensively on dead tissue particles. The symptoms of bacteriosis are different - translucent brown spots appear on the inside of the foliage of the plate, the petioles and stems become glassy and turn into “jelly”, the rosette rots and quickly dies.

Since vascular bacteriosis appears due to heat, effective method fight it - lowering the air temperature and ventilation, but not a draft! The most reliable method is to install an air conditioner. If this is not possible, remove the violets from the windowsills to a more shaded place, on pallets with wet drainage. A diseased plant is recommended to be treated with a solution of trichodermin or trichopolum. It is also used for prevention.

Bacteriosis primarily affects weakened Saintpaulias, so direct efforts to increase the immunity of flowers. And it strengthens:

• timely rejuvenation;
• spring (in May) transplanting into a fresh substrate;
• treatment before stressful situations (heat is stress!) with immunomodulators, for example, Epin.

root rot

Not only a fungus can lead to root rot, but also an elementary overflow, the use of too cold water. Moisture stagnates in too dense soil if the drain holes in the pot are clogged. There are many reasons, the result is one - the plant weakens, loses turgor, drops the lower tier of the rosette, trying to preserve young leaves.

The only way to save the violet is to transplant it into fresh soil, after removing the rotten parts. If there are no whole roots left, root the outlet, thereby rejuvenating the plant.

Every year, professional breeders and amateurs produce dozens of new varieties of violets. These are compact indoor plants that, with proper care, can bloom almost all year round. But there are people who cannot grow violets: they either rot, then dry, then wither, then they absolutely do not want to bloom. The reason most often lies in improper care, but in some cases the flower dies due to diseases and pests, to which, alas, it is very susceptible.

In most cases, violet diseases develop rapidly, so if you don’t “diagnose” and start treating them in time, these wonderful plants will turn into lifeless bushes.

fungal diseases

Many violet lovers always have a magic bookmark on their computer to a site where violet diseases with photographs and their elimination are described. There are five main fungal diseases:

Diseases of violets with photographs and their treatment is the material that every novice violet grower simply needs to study. Even when purchasing a new and healthy-looking plant from a good flower shop, there is no guarantee that you will not run into unforeseen problems.

Gray rot

Its quantity increases especially actively if the earth is not warmed up, that is, low-temperature water was irrigated, the room is cool enough, or the flower pot is on a cold windowsill.

The first sign of the appearance of gray rot is spots on violet leaves. They, however, may also appear on cuttings and peduncles. Violet roots are also affected, but since they are hidden in the soil layer, it is not easy to detect gray rot on them. If the violet leaf began to turn black and you saw something similar to mold, then you can think about the diagnosis of "gray rot".

Other signs of damage:

• slow or completely stopped plant growth;
• loss of turgor (elasticity);
• loose and too soft earth near the roots of the plant.

In most cases, it is not possible to save the violet, as the disease progresses rapidly. Colonies of the fungus penetrate the cells, move through the vessels, killing the flower both from the inside and outside. However, you can try. First, it is necessary to cut off parts of the plant with a sharp disinfected knife, on which gray rot is visible. Secondly, put the pot on a layer of newspapers, which will draw excess moisture from the soil. Thirdly, treat the violet with antifungal drugs. In addition, it is necessary to rearrange the pot in a warmer place.

powdery mildew

Over time, these points become larger, and if no action is taken, the leaf plate will be completely shrouded in cobweb plaque, both from the outside and from the inside. Damage to buds and flowers is not excluded.

If powdery mildew appears on violets, treatment consists in treatment with antifungal drugs. A description of the multiplicity, frequency and their dosage is always given on the label.

Folk methods of treating powdery mildew on violets consist in treating the ground parts of the plant with various solutions, for example, soap and soda solution, kefir, potassium permanganate (the solution is prepared in a pale pink color, otherwise you can burn the living cells of the plant), infusion from onion peel or horsetail.

Tracheomycosis

Unfortunately, it is impossible to cure your favorite violets from tracheomycosis. Moreover, it happens that even in the evening the flower looked normal, and in the morning you find its lifeless remains. Throw them away with the soil. The pot should be washed, especially carefully it is necessary to wipe the edge of the pot from the inside. Then it is recommended to place the container at 20 - 30 minutes in an aqueous solution of "Whiteness", and then rinse and scald with boiling water.

Prevention of tracheomycosis is regular treatment with antifungal agents, which are sold in flower shops and garden centers, as well as following the basic rules for caring for violets.

late blight

First you need to rearrange the pot with a late blight plant away from other flowers in order to prevent the spread of the disease. Then the leaves, stems and part of the roots, which appearance different from healthy ones, cut off with a sharp disinfected knife or scissors.

Violet is transplanted into sterile soil, for example, into high-moor peat, previously calcined in the oven. With the help of chemical antifungal drugs, at least two treatments are carried out at an interval recommended by the manufacturer of the product. For prevention, it is advisable to spray or shed with a solution those plants that were previously located near the diseased violet.

Bronzing

Bronze is viral disease of violets, which leads to the destruction of the intracellular structure of the plant. They carry the thrips virus.

Thrips are so small that it is not so easy to see them. That is why it is advisable to withstand all new flowers that enter your house 2 - 3 weeks in quarantine, away from other plants.

Thrips are dangerous not only as carriers of the bronze virus, but also as pests, so flower treatment should be comprehensive. In this case, the plant must be treated with both anti-infective and insecticidal chemicals.

insect pests

Mealybugs

Mealybugs feed on young flower stalks, can live in leaf axils and soil. They actively multiply, saturated with the juice of the plant, which is almost completely deprived of nutrients.

If you feel that the earth in a pot smells somewhat like mushrooms, then it is infected with worms. By the way, these pests can even be seen. They look like white fluff.

Treatment for mealybugs consists of treatment with insecticidal agents.

Aphid

Translucent insects with a body of black, green or red hue - this is the aphid. It feeds on the intracellular sap of the plant, depriving shoots and leaves of nutrition and causing their death. Aphids can be removed by washing all aboveground parts of the plant with soapy water, and then rinsing in the shower, preventing the earth from washing out of the pot.

Ticks

There are several types of mites that can harm violets.

Cyclamen mites practically invisible. Their appearance can be diagnosed by yellow marks on the plant. The food for cyclamen mites are leaves and young leaves.

Spider mites they feed on violet leaves. In the place where the spider mites ate, reddish punctures with a thin cobweb appear.

Treatment for ticks are insecticidal preparations.

Ticks can severely damage a plant. In addition, they carry various diseases.

Once in 2 - 3 months violet is transferred to the bathroom, where gently wash the leaves under running water temperature around 40 degrees. It is advisable not to allow liquid to enter the soil, as it is possible to over-moisten the earthen clod.

The second way - bathing violets in the shower m. The pot is placed in a plastic bag, which is tied around the stem of the plant to prevent the earth from washing out. After water procedures, the violet is left in the bath until completely dry. If a plant with drops of water on the leaves and stems is placed on a windowsill, brown or white spots will appear. The former indicate burns caused by refracted sunlight, the latter - hypothermia of fragments of the leaf plate.

A proven remedy against diseases and pests is infusion of garlic. Three large cloves of garlic are peeled, crushed and poured with a liter of cold water. The jar must be closed with a lid and kept in a warm room for a day. This concentrated solution is poured into a bucket with five liters of water. Violets are poured with garlic infusion, and the leaves are also rubbed with it. After the procedure, using paper napkins, it is necessary to remove excess water to prevent decay of the growth point.

The third way - chemical. The plant is regularly treated with antifungal, antiviral and insecticidal agents.

Uzumbar violet is loved by many flower growers. This charming, fragile plant brightens the house in summer and winter. Violet health depends largely on proper care. A delicate flower often suffers from pests, is susceptible to diseases of viral, bacterial, fungal origin. Descriptions of diseases and pests of violets with informative photographs will help to come to the rescue in time. With properly organized care, violet will delight flowering all year round.

Types of powdery mildew prevention and treatment

A common cause of the death of indoor violets is downy and powdery mildew. Both diseases are fungal in nature. In the case of powdery mildew, the causative agent of the disease is powdery mildew (Erysiphales). Downy mildew is caused by the fungus Peronosporaceae, a family of peronosporaceae.

It is possible to understand that the violet is sick with powdery mildew at the initial stage of the disease. Should alert light raid white color on leaves and petioles. It looks like the plant has been lightly dusted with flour. The progression of the disease is accompanied by damage to all parts of the plant with ulcers. The leaf surface becomes uneven.

At the final stage, a general oppression of the violet is noted: it stops growing, weakens, and dies. There are many causes of powdery mildew infection. Most often, the fungus multiplies on flower plants weakened due to poor care. Excess nitrogen in the soil provokes powdery mildew. Possible routes of infection:

• from another diseased plant;
• fungus-infected soil;
• dirty, contaminated tool used in transplanting, breeding.

Treatment

At the first sign of the disease, start treating the diseased violet. First, inspect the flower, pinch off all the damaged leaves. Treat the soil and leaves with a fungicide. For processing violets, "Fundozol", "Topaz" are suitable. These fungicides do not damage tender leaves, the spray solution should be slightly warm. Put the violet in a warm dark place. Keep it in the dark until completely dry. This measure will prevent sunburn on the leaves.

Prevention

Monitor the balance of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in the soil. Use fertilizers with a high percentage of potassium and phosphorus to feed the flower. Before transplanting (planting) violets, treat the soil with a fungicide:

• Previcour;
• Infinito;
• Thanos.

Treatment and preventive actions apply the same as for true powdery mildew. Symptoms of the disease are different:

• the first stage is a silvery or white coating on the lower part of the leaf plate;
• the second stage - spots on the upper surface of the leaves, the color of the spots is light green, brown, reddish;
• the third stage - in the absence of treatment, the flower dies.

Important to remember! High humidity accelerates the course of the disease and promotes the spread of downy mildew.

You can lose your favorite violet because of the Phragmidium fungus, which causes rust, a dangerous disease. indoor plants. This disease should be recognized and treated in the early stages. Violets are more likely to become infected with rust during the winter-spring transition period. Lack of sunlight, reduced immunity for this reason, the presence of fungus in the apartment are the main causes of rust.

Signs of rust are clearly visible in the photo. Spots appear on the outer surface yellowish color. Turning the leaf over, you can see yellow pustules - colonies of the fungus. When the pustules rupture, the spores of the fungus are carried around the room, infecting other plants. Having found signs of rust on your violet, you need to proceed with emergency treatment of the flower:

• remove and destroy leaves affected by the fungus;
• isolate the flower from other indoor plants;
• treat the leaves with a fungicide.

From rust help: "Fitosporin-M", "Baktofit", "Topaz". When the form is advanced, treatment may not help. In this case, destroy the plant, dispose of the flower pot.

root rot

An alarm signal - the violet does not bloom. It can be assumed that violets have root rot if, with a wet substrate, the lower leaves of the flower, which have lost their elasticity, are sluggish, and the petioles are soft to the touch. The cause of violet root rot is fungi (phytopthora, pythium), and the incorrect content of the flower provokes their active reproduction, to be more precise:

• lack of a drainage hole in the pot, excessive watering;
• poor quality soil (taken from the garden);
• cooling the soil in a pot;
• abundant watering on dry soil.

According to statistics, 75% of all violet diseases are root rot. To avoid this unpleasant disease, take as a rule the advice of experienced flower growers - water in small portions in case of transplanting violets and after a forced long drought. Water once every few days until the plant adapts from the stress.

If you suspect root rot in a violet, do not hesitate, proceed to the resuscitation of your favorite flower. First of all, take it out of the pot, inspect the roots. The absence of white roots confirms the diagnosis. The next step is to remove the lower leaves, cut off the root part. If there are brown spots on the cut of the stem, cut the stem higher. In a stem that is not damaged by rot, the color has a purple tint. If the entire stem is damaged by rot, the plant should be destroyed.

We reached the healthy part of the stem - peel the lower 1-1.5 cm from the leaves, spray with fungicide, leave to lie down for 30 minutes and place in the substrate (vermiculite, water, soil) to form new roots. It is better to use moistened vermiculite, put a transparent bag on top of the flower. Take the container with the flower to a cool room, use a fluorescent lamp for illumination. After the appearance of new roots, plant the violet in a new pot filled with soil.

In the midst summer heat in many flower growers, violets begin to die from bacteriosis. It is almost impossible to save flowers. Signs of bacteriosis violets:

• the appearance of brown spots on the stems, petioles, leaves;
• leaves, starting from the bottom, change color, becoming dark;
• leaf tissue softens, the flower dies.

Sick flowers die quickly (from 2 to 30 days), the disease can spread to other plants. Violets are more often affected by bacteriosis in negligent flower growers, who either dry out or flood poor plants. The most critical month for bacteriosis is July. In the heat, violets need to be shaded from the sun, leaving to rest, organize wick watering. In the spring, transplant violets into pots with a new soil mixture. At the beginning of summer, treat violets with Epin.

Violets disease - vascular bacteriosis: video

Violets pests

Inspect the leaves, buds, petioles of violets should be regularly. Especially in spring and summer, when the windows are open for ventilation. Be mindful of insect pests when buying a new potted plant from a flower shop and decorating your home with cut flowers. It does not matter if they are cut in their garden or in an industrial greenhouse. With flowers, with soil for air transplanting, there is a possibility of pests getting on your blooming violets. The most common aphid pests:

1. Ticks (flatworm, cyclamen, spider).
2. Shield (false shield).

Ticks

Ticks feed on violet sap. The size of the mites is so small that it is difficult to see them with the naked eye.

The most common type of mite that settles on the petioles and leaves of room violets is the spider mite. We saw the thinnest white cobweb on petioles, buds, leaves - this is a spider mite wound up on a violet. A poor plant loses its decorative effect from the loss of juice. Deformed brown leaves appear on the bushes. They dry up and fall off.

If the violet does not grow, it has stopped blooming, the young leaves are covered with spots yellow color and compacted - a cyclamen mite settled on the flower. It populates at the top of the outlet.

Flower growers rarely meet this mite on their violets. Signs of the presence of a flatworm mite on a violet are leaves twisted inward. The leaves gradually wither, dry and fall off. Violet may die.

Folk recipes for ticks on violets

We saw the first signs of a tick on a violet, do not pull, use a simple folk trick to start. You can take vodka or alcohol. Use a cotton swab moistened with alcohol to wipe petioles and violet leaves.

After a few days, spray the violet with an infusion of onion peel. Pour 80 g of onion peel into a 3-liter jar, pour boiling water over it. After a couple of days, the infusion can be filtered and used for spraying. Treat all flower plants in the room for prevention.

Folk recipes are effective at the initial stage. When the concentration of insects is threshold, the flower is threatened with death, the only way out is chemistry. Use acaricides - special preparations for combating ticks:

1. Apollo- intestinal contact drug. Apollo destroys the eggs of the tick, kills the larvae, inhibits the sexual activity of adults.
2. Neoron- a new remedy that acts on adult ticks from the inside. The duration of exposure is 10-40 days.
3. Fitoverm– effective insectoacaricide of intestinal-contact action. Valid up to 20 days from the date of processing.

Processing violets from ticks: video

It is difficult to get rid of scale insects and false scales on violets. One female scale insect, caught on a flower, lays many eggs in a few days. Larvae (tramps), emerging into the world, feed on violet juice. The lower surface of the leaves of an infected violet is covered with red-brown shields. Yellow spots are visible on the upper surface of the leaf plate. Adults secrete a sticky mass in which soot fungus multiplies. Sometimes it's easier to destroy the violet.

Adults are not afraid of insecticides, so they must be removed mechanically. To do this, you need a cotton swab moistened with the drug: "Aktellik", "Aktar", "Karbofos". You can treat the leaves with soapy water by dropping kerosene into it, it’s even easier to take 1 liter of water, pour 2 tbsp. l olive oil. With the resulting oily solution, treat all the leaves and petioles of the violet.

The first sign of thrips on violets is pollen scattering, the second is yellow paths on the leaves. Get rid of thrips on violets will help the recipe of an experienced violet lover. Take any flea shampoo (25 ml) and 1 Fitoverm-M ampoule. Dilute them in 5-6 liters of water.

Wrap the violet (pot) so that the earth does not fall out, in a plastic bag. Wash the violet leaves in running warm water. Dip the socket for 10 seconds in a basin with soapy water. After the procedure, pour the soil in the pot with a solution of 2 preparations: Fitoverm-M, Aktara, prepared according to the instructions.

- filiform, transparent worms (up to 2 mm). They live in the soil, affect the root system. Signs of a nematode-affected violet:

• elongated, thickened stem;
• shortened petioles, petioles are completely absent in the upper leaves;
• leaves acquire an unnaturally dark green color, become dense;
• the edges of the leaves are folded inward;
• flowers are small, ugly;
• on the roots of thickening (galls);
• roots brown, black.

It is impossible to get rid of nematodes, prevention saves. When planting, crushed dry marigold petals and peat can be added to the soil when planting. Nematodes do not like peat. Water violets with infusion of marigolds or water infused with peat. Nematodes do not like biohumus. Biohumus-based substrate (Terra-Vita) is ideal for violets. Use new pots for transplanting, treat old ones with a strong disinfectant.

Mealybugs can be seen with the naked eye, the size of the insect depends on the variety (3-6 mm). Violets are harmed by adults and their larvae. Habitats:

• buds;
• young leaves;
• young shoots.

An infected violet is stunted. On damaged surfaces, you can see a white coating that looks like cotton wool. On late stages, on the sweet secretions of insects, the fungus multiplies.

You can get rid of the worm on violets. Moisten the brush in soapy water, clean all parts of the plant from insects and plaque. Prepare a green soap solution. Grate 10 g per liter of water and stir. Spray violet. It is necessary to process 3 times with an interval of 7 days.

Aphids on violets are visible to the naked eye, form their colonies on the inner surface of the leaves, in buds. Adults and larvae suck juice, inhibiting the plant. On the sticky secretions of aphids, the fungus multiplies. Aphid carrier of viruses. Signs of violets affected by aphids:

• the crown part of the flower is deformed;
• ugly flowers;
• buds do not develop;
• twisted leaves.

It is not difficult to deal with aphids, especially at the very beginning. When small green or black insects appear (the color depends on the type of aphid), wash the violet with soapy water. Cut off loose leaves. Repeat the treatment after a few days. In advanced cases, use chemistry:

• Actellik;
• Fitoverm;
• Intavir.

Growing problems

Beginners who start growing violets often have problems caused by improper care. The most common complaints:

• spots appeared on the leaves;
• leaves wither and dry;
• the root of the violet rots.

Why do yellow or brown spots appear on violet leaves? Most likely, direct sunlight falls on the violet, and the spots are sunburn. They save the violet in different ways: they stick a stained glass film on the glass, shade it with translucent roller blinds, transfer it to the windowsill of the north window. Ideally, violet loves diffused, not bright light. Spots on the leaves may occur:

• due to dry (too humid) air;
• insufficient (excessive) watering;
• due to excess fertilizer, especially nitrogen;
• use of cold water for irrigation.

Elite varieties of violets should be grown on a rack equipped with an artificial lighting system.

The edges of the leaves dry and darken for four reasons. The first reason is overflow. Second possible reason- lack of nutrients in the soil. Reduce watering, water only when the top layer dries. If the matter is in poor soil, feed with any fertilizer for ornamental plants. The third reason why the edges of the leaves may dry is poor soil: dense, heavy, or when transplanting a flower, it was too compacted around the roots. The violet leaves are still drying from the draft, she categorically does not like him.

Usually in violets, the root rots due to overflows or acidic soil. Provide the plant with bottom watering. To do this, use pots with holes in the bottom, put them in a pan. Pour water only into the pan, after 30 minutes the water must be drained from the pan. Use the soil purchased for Saintpaulia. Try to save the transfused violet by re-rooting.

Most violet diseases are from improper care. If the violet is given optimal conditions, it will bloom most of the year. Violet loves eastern windows, artificial lighting in winter (10-12 hours), moderately humid air with a temperature of 18 to 24 ° C, a small pot (5-7 cm in diameter), light and nutritious soil.

sucking insects. Most often, indoor flowers are attacked by aphids, thrips, scale insects and whiteflies. They suck cell juices out of the plant, because of which it quickly withers and may die. Pests especially love tender young leaves, shoots and buds.

Gnawing insects. Most pests eat the flesh of the leaves, stems, or roots of houseplants. The most common of them: ticks, weevils, nematodes.

Violets are affected by several types of mites (Acarina) . Ticks are extremely small. It is almost impossible to detect them without a microscope. Himself on top, eggs on the ground, nymphs do not know where and do not eat anything. Ticks and their larvae settle at the very point of growth, on emerging buds and leaves. They do not tolerate low humidity. In opened flowers and on unfolded leaves, the eggs of the mites would die if the males did not take care of them, moving them to comfortable conditions. Male ticks also transport helpless larvae of the second age and even large females. Tick ​​eggs can remain viable for up to 5 years.

It can only be detected by the appearance of the plant. In affected plants growth is retarded. Thickening of the center of the outlet. Pinched centers do not come with straightened edges of the central leaves, they are always tucked up. In the center of the rosette, deformed leaves appear, curved and small, shagreen, finely chopped surface of the upper part of the leaf blade - the leaves are folded in the form of a boat, on short petioles. Young leaves are crowded and deformed, as if curled, wrinkled, becoming very fluffy. Buds do not develop. Flowers on diseased plants do not bloom to the end, become deformed. Over time, the plant dies.

Thrips (Thysanoptera) - are small dipterous insects, do not exceed 1-1.5 mm in size. Most thrips range in color from translucent white or yellowish to dark brown or black. The mouth of the pest is designed in such a way as to prick and suck, the paws are equipped with teeth for clinging and tiny bubbles that help to gain a foothold on reverse side sheet. Small, very nimble, oblong insects that can fly and quickly spread throughout the collection.

Actively feed not only on flowers, but also on leaves. If the plants stand in conditions of low humidity, then thrips damages mainly the flowers and tender leaves of the growing point of the plant. If thrips is in greenhouses and greenhouses, it feeds simply on the surface of the leaf blade. Thrips suck juice from plant cells. Thrips are dangerous because they multiply very quickly (in the heat or during the heating season, when the air in the apartments is rather dry and warm, they are able to double their numbers in 4-6 days) and jump onto nearby plants.

It is not always possible to see the pest itself; its presence in the collection is most often judged by the traces of its activity. It prefers a secretive lifestyle and successfully hides in the stamens of a flower, in buds, or in the axils of leaves. Adult thrips and larvae are usually located on the underside of the leaf, both along the veins and between them. During the daytime, they are usually inactive, mostly active at night. On the plant can be found in the form of actively moving small insects of a dark brown color, in flowers on anthers. If you knock on the flower, small insects fly into the air from the anthers.

Pests eventually lead the plant to a completely unpresentable appearance. The flowers are semi-withered, deformed, dotted with small white and black specks (white - bites, black - feces). The presence of thrips can be determined by special colorless or yellowish stripes, silver dotted lines on the leaf surface. On damaged leaves, brown-brown spots appear on the underside, and whitish spots on the upper side. With severe damage, the leaves are deformed and wrapped inward. On the petals of dark-colored, especially blue flowers, pollen is visible waking up from them. Yes, and the flower itself looks untidy, sometimes it has irregular shape, the flower fades much faster.

Aphid (Aphidoidea) - This is a very large group of sucking insect pests. Their size is a few mm, no more than 5-7. They live on almost all organs of plants: on leaves, and on stems, and on flowers, and even on roots. Distinctive feature these insects are served by the fact that they always keep large groups. Aphids are not very mobile and prefer to settle on the underside of young leaves or girdling young stems. And aphids reproduce very quickly: under optimal conditions, the female lays 20-25 larvae per day.

The presence of aphids is almost always noticeable. Its colonies on the plant are visible, as a rule, very well. You can also easily detect sticky secretions on the leaves and sooty fungus. This pest, most often, can be found on violets, which were grown in greenhouses and sold through stores. It multiplies very quickly and appears on plants in large clusters. It infects the plant by sucking the juice from the succulent parts of the plants. Prefers young leaves and tops of shoots. Affected plants turn yellow, discolor, the leaves are deformed, twisted, fall off. Characteristic shiny and sticky streaks appear on the leaves of plants. Flowers on the affected peduncles do not develop, wither, barely opening. The peduncle itself quickly fades.

Whiteflies (Aleyrodidae) . These are herbivorous insects. small size with white wings, like a tiny fly. If they are disturbed, they rise from the plant in a cloud and fly over to neighboring plants. Adult whiteflies, like larvae, feed on plant sap. The development of whiteflies is facilitated by the crowded content of plants in a warm and humid atmosphere without sufficient ventilation. The development of the whitefly is rapid, almost simultaneously the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

The whitefly prefers plants with soft leaves that bloom. Whiteflies usually hide on the underside of leaves. Female whiteflies lay their eggs mainly on young leaves. The developing larvae secrete a sticky secretion that contaminates the leaves and promotes the development of soot fungus. It is sooty fungi that can greatly harm the plant, and not directly whiteflies. Sometimes, because of them, the growth of shoots stops. With a strong defeat by this pest, the saintpaulias weaken, stop growing, and lose their decorative effect. The affected leaf begins to gradually curl and fade. Plants begin to get sick with fungal and bacterial diseases. The whitefly is also an active carrier of plant viral infections.

Scale insect (Coccidae) . Already by the name, it can be assumed that an important component of its appearance is a shield that covers the body of the female from above. The newly hatched scale insect larva (tramp) moves independently, but then sticks to the plant in a certain place and begins to consume its juices.

More often settles on rosettes with smooth leaves, on a leaf or leaf petioles. On the shoots, in the nodes of the leaves and along the leaf veins, rounded hard brown or brownish plaques appear. It looks like a brownish shield 1-3 mm long, false shield - 3-7 mm. Unlike false scale insects, scale insects do not secrete a sticky liquid on the surface of the leaves.

One of the symptoms of plant infection with them is the appearance of round yellow spots on the leaves. The leaves subsequently dry up and fall off. I must say that the severity of the damage to the scale insect exceeds the false scale, a plant infected with a scale insect can die quite quickly.

Podur and springtails (Poduridae) - these are completely different insects, podura, in principle, very rarely settle on indoor plants. But the main symptoms of damage by these and other pests and their external signs are very similar, therefore, apparently, there is no particular difference in the name of these insects for flower growers.

Their sizes are very small (about 2-4 mm). They prefer a secretive lifestyle in places with high humidity. Podur can be seen crawling on the surface of the soil or on the bottom of the pot near the drainage holes in the pot, in the pan after watering the plant. After watering, podura float on the surface of the water.

Completely harmless to indoor plants, they are involved in the processing of the soil, but when propagated in a very large quantities can damage young flower roots, contribute to the development of fungal and bacterial infections. They make small holes in the leaves, stems, sometimes on the roots. Naturally, the plant suffers, its growth stops.

A noticeable increase in the number of podura is a good indicator of improper agricultural practices. They start from dampness. It is necessary to change the approach to agricultural technology of growing plants. The most basic and common reason for the presence of podura is too dense, non-breathing soil, prone to acidification and, as a result, the root system rots.

Sciarids, or mushroom mosquitoes (Mycetophilidae) - small flies hovering over potted plants. Sometimes there are almost none, sometimes there are hundreds. They look like ordinary midges, small in size, black in color. These adult dipterans do no harm (they damage nothing themselves), but their larvae, which live in the soil, contribute to the rapid destruction of the substrate, can damage the roots, compact the ground, therefore air access to the roots is sharply reduced. With the mass reproduction of sciarids, they begin to actively feed on living plant tissues, which makes it possible to classify them as pests.

With normal agricultural practices, sciarids do not cause any significant harm to adult Saintpaulia plants; they are especially dangerous for young immature plants. Sciarids get into volumes with plants either with soil, or adult females, penetrating into the room from the street, lay their eggs in moist soil. It should be noted that they do not tolerate complete drying of the soil at all. The larvae extracted from the wet substrate die within a few minutes. Waterlogging of the substrate and great content it contains rapidly decomposing organic matter - these are the main conditions under which sciarids feel most comfortable and begin to multiply rapidly.

Worms (Pseudococcidae) . Female mealybugs are fairly fertile, and the waxy coating reliably protects them from non-systemic pesticides. The source of infection of collections with mealybugs, as a rule, are infected plants brought from outside. They especially love light dry breathable earth. The root bug is one of the most dangerous pests of saintpaulia.

At first, they are almost impossible to detect, they are very small, 1-4 mm, moreover, almost the entire life cycle takes place underground. Look for worms should be on young peduncles, as well as in all kinds of axils and folds of leaves. Some mealybugs can feed on the plant below the substrate level. The bulk of the pests are inside the earthy coma.

The worm is an underground inhabitant, only with its mass reproduction does it reach the above-ground parts of plants, and then it can be found on the neck and lower part of the stem, leaf petioles. The worms can easily crawl into the nearest plant pots, especially if the latter are in a common pallet.

The first and main sign of the presence of root bugs on Saintpaulia is a whitish coating on the roots of the plant. The roots are as if sprinkled with ashes or covered with white mold. On the walls of dark-colored pots, small whitish lumps are easily detected, which signal an infection of the plant much earlier than it will be visible from the roots. The lower part of the violet stem is covered with a whitish fluff - secretions of mealybugs. Another sign - and perhaps the most remarkable - there is an extraneous smell from the soil, reminiscent of a mushroom.

The affected plant develops more slowly. Even with perfect care, it blooms less often and does not bloom so profusely. The leaves become faded. As the measles system dies off, the plant loses turgor and turns yellow. Weakened Saintpaulia, having received multiple damage to the root system, eventually dies from secondary fungal and bacterial infections.

Mealybugs- the most complex and insidious pests of all known on violets. Adult insects and larvae accumulate, as a rule, in colonies on stems, leaf petioles, in leaf axils, on apical buds, or are located in depressions formed by branching of leaf veins (from below).

Basically, the worm is located on the underside of the leaves and in the center of the leaf rosettes, at the base of the peduncles. Often found on stems and shoots. Colonies resemble cotton wool on the surface of the plant. Adult mealybugs, especially young ones, are quite mobile, so they easily crawl onto all nearby plants.

By sucking out the juices of young shoots, leaves, buds, mealybugs greatly retard the growth of plants. The problem is not only that the plants are deprived of part of the nutrients, but also that the feeding worm secretes saliva containing digestive enzymes into the plant tissues. Substances secreted by mealybugs negatively affect the metabolism of plants. Mealy worms feed on the sap of the host plant, significantly inhibiting and weakening it, sometimes leading to its complete death.

Nematodes (Nematoda). Small worms 0.5-1.3 mm long. Among them are distinguished gallic(root), stem And leafy nematodes. The main similarity of all these pests is that it is difficult and sometimes pointless to deal with them. They affect the root system of the plant, sucking out cell sap and releasing harmful substances, as well as forming swellings of various sizes on the roots, similar to beads - galls (damages of the gall nematode).

You can detect a nematode only by transplanting a plant, carefully examining its root system. Symptoms: first, light green spots appear on the leaves damaged by the nematode, gradually they turn brown and rot. The growth point may also dry out, or deformed leaves develop from it. The external manifestation of the affected plant is browning, very similar to gray rot, but with leaf nematodes, brown tissues are never covered with gray mycelium. When buying a cutting, look at the leaf infected with the nematode, there is a thickening at the base of the petiole. Sometimes you can find tiny babies with fused stems that do not separate from each other.

On the surface of the leaves, first yellow, then brown spots appear, increasing in size. The sheet becomes thinner, becomes parchment, then dries up. Affected plants are severely stunted, depressed and do not bloom. The stem of a diseased plant is deformed, ugly daughter rosettes appear on it, the plant gradually becomes lethargic and dies.

Room - rather capricious, demanding and needs increased attention. Under favorable conditions, it pleases the eye with its delicate velvety leaves, modest, but such touching flowers. But this wonderful plant is defenseless against diseases that affect it and sometimes lead to death.

To make the violet feel great, you need to fulfill several prerequisites:

1. The pot should not be offered to the plant to grow in order to root system completely filled the soil;
2. should be loose, balanced in acidity, saturated with the optimal amount of nutrients, including phosphorus and potassium, but without an excess of nitrogen;
3. soil moisture and environment should not be excessive, but the violet endures a constant lack of moisture no less painfully;
4. Balanced temperature - important condition the health and beauty of violets, for which both excessive heat and cold are equally harmful;
5. Sufficient lighting must be provided, but direct exposure to the sun can cause extensive burns and even death of the entire plant;
6. Timely ventilation, but without drafts, should provide an influx of fresh air, which is necessary for the full growth and development of violets.

Diagnosis of plant disease

The causative agents of the disease are fungal spores that are spread indoors, in water, by hand contact after touching infected plants. At the first stage of the disease, violet leaves become untidy, as if sprinkled with flour.

If urgent measures are not taken in time, the second stage of the disease sets in with the appearance of bumps and sores, and the powdery coating spreads more and more, affecting not only the diseased plant, but also neighboring ones. As a result, the leaves die off, fall off, the plant stops its development and dies.

Powdery mildew and downy mildew

On closer inspection, you can find a mycelium that has not yet thrown out spores, glued to the leaflet with special suction cups. The sheet on which the first dirty ball appeared must be destroyed immediately. Ripe and compacted, brownish mycelium gradually deforms the leaf, which is covered with a grayish mold from below.

Downy mildew differs from true powdery mildew in the presence of reddish-brown and light green spots, while the real one is limited to white bloom, which significantly weakens the plant's immunity.

The fungus develops especially actively in a damp and cool room with stagnant air, when the temperature ranges from low at night to sharply elevated on sunlit window sills during the day.

Powdery mildew on violets is one of the most common fungal diseases that visually fully justifies its name.

Symptoms of the disease

Powdery mildew on violets appears as a white powdery coating on the leaves and flowers of the plant and it seems that the plant is sprinkled with flour. When the plant is affected by powdery mildew, then in the place where the violet is placed, a kind of dust and even dirt accumulates near its pot.

That is why the first step in the fight against this disease of violets is regular cleaning of its location. It is also necessary to wash the pots and trays on which they are placed from time to time.

Very often, powdery mildew on violets occurs as a result of insufficient lighting or high humidity at low temperatures, so this disease very often affects violets in the cold season, especially if the plant pots are placed in the back of the room.

Powdery mildew is especially strong on violets, the soil of which is supersaturated with nitrogen, but which lacks phosphorus and potassium.

Treatment methods for violets

To cure violets, it is necessary to treat the plant and the violets next to it with a special solution, for example, Topaz. Very often one treatment is enough, but most often the fight against powdery mildew requires re-treatment.

At the very beginning of the defeat of the fungus, you can try to use this folk recipe: Sprinkle the rosette of the flower with sulfur powder and cover with a plastic bag. If you achieve an increase in temperature under the cap to +25 degrees, then the evaporating sulfur enzymes are able to destroy powdery mildew spores in the bud.

A good effect can be achieved by treating an infected plant with a solution of soda and laundry soap in the ratio: liter jar water, mix 5 grams of soda and 4 grams of soap. From natural ingredients, you can take grass soaked in the evening, which is then boiled for half an hour, cooled, filtered, diluted in water, used for spraying.

An undiluted decoction of boiled and chilled garlic infusion can also be successfully dealt with powdery mildew.

Preventive measures

The best cure is prevention. To prevent the violet from getting sick, care should be taken to strictly comply with all the conditions.

Do not rush to put a newly acquired plant on the windowsill next to the existing flowers, but arrange a quarantine for it for at least a month.

Do not keep plants in close proximity to each other. For transplanting, it is better to use land from the forest or from a summer house, take it as far as possible from the city. In a flower farm, greenhouse or greenhouse, the soil can be infected, so it must be processed by freezing or calcining. If you take care of the plant with attention and care, it will generously thank you with its beauty.