The ficus has aerial roots, what should I do? Ficus transplantation

Ficus is an evergreen plant with a developed root system, it grows quite quickly in size, has neat one-dimensional leaves and a trunk specific shape. Thanks to these qualities, ficus can be quickly formed into a bonsai, the care of which is simple. At home, the most common thing is to create bonsai with your own hands from ficus Benjamin, microcarp, carica, panda, rubber and others.

DIY ficus benjamina bonsai at home

Bonsai is the ancient art of “miniaturizing” trees, which in natural conditions grow up to several tens of meters in height, and shaping their appearance. Now it is associated with Japan, but in fact its homeland is China. The Japanese became the popularizers and “importers” of this original and sophisticated “hobby” of Chinese aristocrats who were engaged in growing mini-trees more than 2000 years ago. In the homeland of classic bonsai, ficuses are not used as “raw materials”, but for a beginner this is a good option.

Pot and soil

Translated from Chinese, “bonsai” means “grown in a tray.” A bonsai pot bears little resemblance to a regular container for flowers, but rather resembles an almost flat bathtub on legs. The legs, by the way, are quite high - 10–15 cm. Required condition- the presence of several drainage holes (at least one with a diameter of about 1 cm for every 10 cm² of bottom area) and a tray. The optimal depth is no more than 4–5 cm with a tree height of 25–30 cm.

Maximum nutritious fertile soil for bonsai is not the best choice. They need a light substrate that allows moisture and air to pass through well. In their homeland, special “granulated” red akadama clay is used to grow miniature trees. In specialized stores you can find a special mixture for palm trees or mulberries. An alternative is soil prepared with your own hands:

Peat chips or fertile loam, coarse river sand, powdered clay (1:1:1).
Leaf soil, small pebbles or expanded clay (no more than 3 mm in diameter), perlite or vermiculite, leaf humus (6: 4: 2: 1).
Powdered clay, sand, leaf humus (6:3:1). You can add a little powdered pine bark (10–15% of the total volume of the finished mixture).
Soil for palm trees or ficuses and any “baking powder” - perlite, vermiculite, sand (3:1).

Important nuances

In order for the bonsai to look organic, you need to know about some of the inherent features of the ficus:

In nature, ficuses often grow in rocky soil and even on rocks, sending roots into the smallest crevices between them. You can try to recreate an authentic habitat - the aerial roots produced by the plant look very original.
If stones are used in the composition, they must be coated with a thin layer of a mixture of soil and powdered clay before placing them under the roots. The correct mass has a creamy consistency. This will help secure the roots without using rope or wire. It is advisable that the stone is not smooth, rolled in water. It is easier for the plant to cling to small cracks and irregularities. The size of the stone is selected depending on the size of the plant and the length of its roots (they must be placed in the ground).
Only real virtuosos can give the Benjamin ficus the desired shape by wrapping it with wire, since the shoots of the plant are quite easy to break. But pruning gives good results.
The upper part of the ficus roots should not be covered with moss, pebbles, soil, and so on.

Suitable style

The canonical art of bonsai involves the formation of a tree in strict accordance with one of the selected styles. For ficus benjamina, the following are best suited:

The simplest option, an eternal classic. It is recommended to start with it for those who do not have even minimal knowledge and experience in this area. The tree has an upright trunk and a gradually tapering crown in the shape of a pyramid. The lower part of the trunk is bare. Visible thick roots are required.
The trunk bends smoothly in 2-3 places. In order to form a bend, thin ropes are enough. The leaves and trunk must be located strictly within the projection of the pot, in an air cylinder or parallelepiped.
It seems as if the tree was torn out of the ground by a storm. The trunk is strongly inclined to one side, overhanging the edge of the container or even hanging over it. On the other side, roots turned out of the ground are visible.
The trunk bifurcates into unequal parts, starting from ground level. For beginners, achieving such a configuration is quite difficult. The main problem is to find a balance between the height and thickness of the “parent” and “child” trunks. But since ficuses grow well together, you can use a trick by planting two plants in one container.
The plant resembles a broom. Ideally, the branches should be almost symmetrical, diverging from the trunk to the sides. It sounds quite simple, but it is far from true.
Up to five ficus plants of different ages are planted in one container, forming a small “grove”. It is desirable that they differ in the thickness of the trunks. You can use plants of the same species or different ones.

Photo Gallery: Bonsai Styles Suitable for Ficus Benjamin

Tekkan style is a classic, it is recommended to start with a short one for those without experience in growing bonsai Moyoga style has smooth curves It seems that the shakang style bonsai suffered from a natural disaster. Bonsai sokan - like “parent” and “child” The simplicity of symmetry inherent in the Hokidachi style is apparent, it is difficult to achieve. Grove in the Yoseue style from different types ficus looks very impressive

Video: what a ficus bonsai looks like

Planting a tree

When replanting ficus Benjamin, purchased in a store, you need to wait 12–15 days, allowing the plant to adapt to the new conditions. A personally rooted cutting is planted 2–2.5 months after planting material will give the first roots.

Planting procedure and further care - step-by-step master class

Cut several apical cuttings 8–12 cm long from a healthy ficus, treat the cut areas by sprinkling them with crushed chalk or activated carbon. Dry for 2-3 hours. Typically, the cutting has 3–4 leaves and 1–2 growth points, from which the plant will later produce aerial roots.
Place the cuttings in water or a solution of a root formation stimulator (Epin, Kornevin, Topaz, Heteroauxin, potassium humate). If necessary, trim off the lower leaves.
Provide a constant temperature of 25–27ºС, bright light. If possible, use bottom heating.
Cover the bottom of the selected bonsai container with a special fabric, similar to a mesh with small cells (2–3 mm). Pour coarse river sand (layer thickness about 0.5 cm) and substrate (no more than 2.5–3 cm) onto it.
Place the plant in the right place, placing a small stone under the roots, carefully straighten them and sprinkle them with soil, forming a low hill. The soil layer does not reach the top edge of the pot by 1–1.5 cm. Lightly compact the soil. The root collar should be located at ground level. Choose a stone that resembles natural rock as much as possible. A piece of brick or a piece of decorative cladding panel is absolutely not suitable.
Water the ficus well, and after 25–30 minutes drain the excess moisture from the pan.
If you plant several cuttings in a pot, they can be intertwined before the trunks become woody. This will not cause any harm to the plants. To consolidate the result, tie the ficuses in the right place, placing thick rope or twine under them. soft cloth. To speed up the process of fusion of cuttings, remove a layer of bark about 0.5 mm thick and use a special spray.
When the ficus plants have taken root well (after about 4 months), begin to gradually rake away the soil from the roots, gradually exposing them. This will not harm the plant. The older the ficus, the more unnoticeable the procedure is for it.
When the tree grows to the desired height (in about six months), pinch the top and begin to form the crown.
If desired, you can decorate the pot with moss, colored pebbles, decorative stone figures, oriental symbols, without covering the inverted roots. But you shouldn't get carried away. An abundance of decorations inevitably distracts attention from the tree itself and is not welcomed by Japanese tradition.

Proper pruning and other nuances of tree care

How to trim and shape the crown?

Pruning is a procedure without which it will not be possible to make a bonsai from Ficus Benjamin. They usually start with aerial roots, giving them the desired shape, regularly cutting off the main trunk of the plant. Because of this, it begins to increase in diameter, the crown grows in breadth, the roots thicken and partially protrude from the ground.

You can begin to form the crown only when the trunk reaches the required thickness. Since Ficus Benjamin intensively forms green mass, it needs to be pruned at least once every six months. Each branch on which 8–10 new leaves have appeared is shortened so that 2–4 leaves remain. Pruning is done from bottom to top. The juice released at the cut site does not need to be washed off.

To minimize stress on the plant, use only sharp, disinfected scissors with blades that are not too long, cutting branches perpendicularly without leaving stumps. When the released juice thickens, lubricate the “wounds” with garden varnish.

Under no circumstances should you cut off just the leaves. A “bald” bonsai with bare branches sticking out in different directions looks, without exaggeration, terrible. In addition, the remaining leaves may turn brown.

Do not overdo it when trimming leaves - a “bald” bonsai does not look very attractive

The best time to remove a significant amount of green mass is early spring, before the active growing season begins. Then, until autumn, you can carry out small “routine repairs”, removing individual poorly located branches or correcting the direction of their growth. From mid-October until the end of winter, Ficus Benjamin is not pruned - this is too much stress for a plant that needs a period of rest.

The shape of the trunk must be given as carefully as possible. The best option is to use a thin rope or twine, tying the necessary branches to the base of the tree or to another support.

If you still decide to use wire, take the thinnest one available, with insulation and be sure to place a soft cloth under it. Do not wrap ficus benjamina with wire immediately after transplantation, wait 3-4 weeks. Move strictly from the bottom up from the base of the trunk. When the plant is able to maintain the desired shape (after 1.5–2 months), carefully cut the wire and remove it. There is no need to even try to unwind it - you will almost certainly break off the branches.

Those who are confident in their abilities can try to “correct” nature by transplanting one or more shoots of other species onto Ficus Benjamin. Some craftsmen manage to transplant even aerial roots.

Video: trunk formation and pruning of ficus benjamina bonsai

Important care details

Ficus bonsai is cared for in the same way as a normal sized plant. It also needs watering, increasing air humidity, and regular fertilization. Creating optimal conditions for the plant is no less important than caring for it.

For harmonious development, it is advisable to provide at least 12 hours of daylight. During the active growing season, if there is not enough natural sun, use special phytolamps. For autumn and winter, avoid lighting.

Choose a place for your bonsai immediately and forever. Ficus reacts poorly to movement, abruptly dropping leaves. Make sure that the pot is not in a draft. Ensure a constant temperature of 18–25ºС, try to avoid sudden changes. 15ºС is the survival threshold for Ficus Benjamin.

Any bonsai is watered quite moderately so as not to cause root rot. Ficus Benjamina is no exception. Use rain, melt or well-settled water. It is advisable to pass the latter through a filter or soften it with several crystals citric acid. To ensure that the soil is saturated with moisture evenly, water is sprayed onto the bonsai from a fairly large height using a spray bottle. Thus, at the same time you moisten the crown of the tree. Miniature ficus is watered daily or once every 2 days (depending on the temperature and humidity indoors and outdoors) as soon as the top layer of soil is completely dry.

The dense, fleshy leaves of the ficus help it endure the dry air of modern apartments, but for rapid growth and harmonious development, it is recommended to increase the air humidity in the room using affordable methods. This is a necessary condition for the appearance of aerial roots, which give the bonsai originality.

If there is no winter garden or greenhouse in the house a good place for mini ficus - kitchen. The air humidity there is higher than in other rooms.

Bonsai are fed with fertilizers only during the active growing season, from early spring to mid-autumn. Ideally, you need to find special mixtures for this type indoor plants, but complex fertilizers for palm trees or mulberries are also suitable. The fertilizer is dissolved in water, strictly following the manufacturer’s recommendations. The preferred option for its application is foliar. Once every 15–20 days is enough.

Transfer

Bonsai under the age of 5 years need to be replanted every 2 years, adult trees - once every 5 years. Focus on the roots of the plant - if they stick out from the drainage holes in the pot, the ficus Benjamin clearly needs to be replanted. In the process, shorten the roots by a third - this stimulates the growth and branching of the ficus.

In general, the plant reacts negatively to transplantation, inevitably becoming “bald”, so it is not recommended to disturb Benjamin’s ficus unless absolutely necessary. The procedure can be completely replaced by removing the top layer of soil in the pot (about 1 cm) and adding a portion of freshly prepared substrate.

How to care for Ficus microcarpa (ginseng) bonsai?

Ficus Benjamin as a material for growing bonsai is the most popular, but by no means the only option. Ficus small-fruited (microcarpa), also known as ginseng (the more common pronunciation is “ginseng”) or blunted, looks no less aesthetically pleasing. The plant is also found under the nicknames “Chinese banyan”, “Taiwanese” or “Indian laurel ficus”, “green island”.

He is also popularly known as the “strangler”. This name indicates characteristic feature- the aerial roots of the ficus ginseng, in search of support, entwine the trunks of nearby trees and inhibit their growth, in other words, strangle them.

The latter nickname describes what makes the ficus ginseng so popular among bonsai enthusiasts. Its main value for lovers of this decorative and applied art lies in its thick trunk, covered with reddish-gray folded bark, as if woven from several thinner trunks. In fact, what appear to be separate trunks are thickened aerial roots. The whole structure resembles the root of ginseng or the mythical mandrake. The narrow dark green leaves with pointed tips also look very attractive.

Growing a bonsai from a ficus ginseng is even easier than from a ficus benjamina. To stimulate the growth of aerial roots, a newly planted cutting with roots or a plant purchased in a store can be temporarily placed in a florarium or homemade “greenhouse” by tying the ficus in a bag or placing it in a container of suitable volume, covered with glass or plastic film. Ficus ginseng bonsai are replanted in July, shortening the roots by about a quarter.

Ficus ginseng loves light, but not scorching direct sunlight. Desired daylight hours lasting 14–16 hours in most of Russia naturally It will not be possible to provide it, so fluorescent lamps are used for additional illumination. In winter they must work on average 4–6 hours more per day than in summer.

In addition to bright light, ficus ginseng really does not like streams of hot, dry air. Place the plant away from radiators and other heating devices. Another argument against the window sill is strong drafts from uninsulated windows.

Water the bonsai from a watering can with a narrow spout around the perimeter of the pot, trying to prevent water from getting on the trunk and aerial roots. Water is poured until it begins to flow through the drainage holes. Wait 15–20 minutes and drain any excess from the pan. It is advisable to spray the plant daily or wipe the leaves with a damp soft cloth.

When choosing a place for bonsai, remember that the leaves of ficus ginseng are moderately poisonous. Pets who eat them may well become poisoned. Make sure to keep the potty out of reach of your pets.

The optimal height of a ficus ginseng bonsai is about 0.5 m. Accordingly, crown formation can begin in 3–4 years, when the tree has grown to the specified parameters and the aerial roots have become thick enough. But during this time, regular pruning is needed to prevent the tree from stretching excessively.

Massive leaf fall for ficus ginseng is a phenomenon that is quite normal. The lifespan of the leaves is a maximum of 3 years. Pretty soon the tree will acquire a new crown. But yellowing leaves, starting from the lowest ones, are a reason to urgently apply fertilizing. The plant signals that the soil is too poor.

Video: important nuances of caring for ficus ginseng bonsai

Ficus panda, rubber, bengal and other species suitable for bonsai formation

In addition to Ficus Benjamin and Ficus Ginseng, you can grow bonsai from other species:

Ficus bengalensis. It is mainly valued for its specific life form (the so-called banyan) - one tree looks like a whole forest of smaller trees. Under natural conditions, it can grow over several hectares. Other ficus trees can form a banyan tree, but the Bengal one produces the most powerful one. The decoration of the bonsai is added by variegated leaves with a pattern of light veins.
Ficus fig or carica, also known as fig, fig tree and wineberry. Not the most successful (since it gets rid of leaves for the winter), but quite a suitable option for bonsai. The branches are very thick, the leaves are large, so pruning is problematic. The trunk remains smooth regardless of the age of the plant. The more intensively the tree branches, the smaller the leaf plate becomes, so at a height of 0.5–0.7 m the bonsai looks harmonious. In summer it is useful to take the pot out into the open air.
Ficus dark-leaved (neriifolia). Thanks to the color of the leaf blade, the plant is more shade-tolerant than its relatives and survives even in completely artificial light.
Ficus rusty-red or rusty-leaved (rubiginosa). Young specimens of this unusual plant exist as epiphytes, then form a banyan tree, although not as pronounced as that of the ficus bengal. The smooth bark on young shoots has a reddish tint; adult leaves below are covered with a reddish-brown “pile.” It grows quite slowly, which allows bonsai to be pruned less often. Very hardy, even tolerates mistakes in care.
Ficus panda. This species has very dense leaves. The plant tolerates the dry air of modern apartments well.
Ficus rubber (elastica). Most often for bonsai, selective hybrids with a pattern on the leaves of spots and stripes of whitish, olive or lime color are used. Even compared to other ficuses, it grows quickly (one leaf per week). The glossy leaves are arranged in a spiral. Reacts poorly to sudden changes in the type of lighting or changes in the amount of sunlight. The milky-white juice released at the cut site is poisonous.

Bonsai from different types of ficus in the photo

Ficus rusty-red is more “forgiving” to the mistakes of a novice bonsai lover

The small leaves of the ficus panda bonsai literally stick to the shoots - this illusion is created thanks to the short petioles

When pruning ficus rubber bonsai, proceed only with gloves

Possible problems when growing bonsai

Any mistakes made by a bonsai grower negatively affect the appearance of the tree, which dramatically loses its decorative value. “Miniature”, unlike normal-sized trees, can die almost instantly. Therefore, measures must be taken promptly, immediately and correctly responding to the signals sent by the plant.

Table: common difficulties when growing ficus bonsai

Description of the problem	What is the reason and what to do?
Leaves darken and become covered with gray spots irregular shape, which quickly increase in size, then “crawl” onto the trunk. The soil becomes moldy and overgrown with moss.	The bonsai is watered too often and/or too much. Let the soil in the pot dry out, adjust the intervals between watering depending on the temperature and air humidity level outside and indoors. In especially severe cases, only a transplant will help. The bonsai is removed from the pot, the soil is shaken off from the roots, and the remains are washed off. All affected roots are cut off. The ficus is transplanted into new soil and a clean pot, sprinkling the roots with any product that stimulates their growth. The bonsai is sprayed with a 1–1.5% solution of any fungicide, tied in a bag for 10–15 days, with several holes made in the lower part to “dump” moisture. Then you need to keep the same number of mini-ficus in the open bag.
The leaves droop, lose their tone, fade and fall off. The bark gathers into folds.	Bonsai suffers from lack of moisture and dries out. To quickly and evenly wet the soil, place the pot for 10–15 minutes (until bubbles appear on the surface) in a large container of water, then place it in a plastic bag and tie it, thus raising the air humidity. Leave for 2-3 days.
Sudden and massive leaf fall.	Possible reasons are the use of inappropriate temperature water for irrigation (most often too cold), lack of light, incorrect location (in a draft).
The leaves curl and dry out, starting from the tips.	Bonsai receives too much bright light. Choose a place where the ficus will be protected from direct sunlight. If there is no alternative, shade the plant at a time when the sun is most active.
After watering, water takes a long time to leave the soil surface.	In this way, the bonsai signals the need for replanting. Or an unsuitable, too “heavy” soil was used. Approximately 4/5 of the substrate is removed from the pot, without touching the soil directly at the roots, and replaced with a more suitable one. Until the next convenient moment for replanting, the tree is placed in a larger pot, with sand sprinkled on the bottom. The soil is regularly loosened.

Growing bonsai is an activity that requires patience, constant monitoring of the condition of the tree, artistic taste and imagination. Ficus is a good material for those wanting to practice before moving on to growing traditional miniature pines and maples. The plant is not capricious, responds gratefully to care, lends itself well to shaping and has the necessary decorative effect. Bonsai is a “long-term” hobby; growing a tree according to all the rules takes more than 10 years, the result will not be seen immediately, but observing the changes in shape and directing them in the right direction is very exciting.

Ficus plants of many types have long become one of the most beloved indoor plants. Their widespread distribution is also due to the ease of reproduction.

These trees grow quite quickly, each adult plant can give rise to many new specimens.

When is the best time to propagate ficus trees?

IN room conditions do not bloom, so they are propagated vegetatively. The best time for this it is spring from the beginning of April to the end of May.

During this period, ficus cuttings take root most quickly. Young plants that take root in the spring will be able to strengthen and grow noticeably before the fall.

Reproduction methods

There are the following methods of propagating ficuses: apical and stem cuttings, cuttings with one leaf and air layering. Small-leaved plants are not propagated by cuttings with one leaf, as this is very difficult due to the small size of such cuttings.

Apical cuttings

During spring pruning of the tree, cut off upper parts of the shoots are formed, which can be rooted and young ficuses are obtained.

Cuttings should be more than 15 cm in length and have 2-4 large leaves. The branches from which they were cut should be semi-lignified.

To prepare a ficus cutting for rooting, you need to cut its lower part at an angle of 45º as close to the node as possible. The lowest leaf growing from this node is cut off with a knife, the remaining leaves are cut in half.

Prepared cuttings are placed in water for several hours so that the white juice does not solidify on the cut and interfere with root formation. After this, the cuttings need to be dried in air for 2-3 hours. Then they are rooted in one of 2 ways.

Methods for rooting cuttings

Ficus cuttings can be rooted in water or soil. The first method is the simplest. The cuttings are placed in a container with boiled water at room temperature so that their lower node is in the water. It is better to choose a container that is opaque or made of dark glass, so that blue-green algae, which prevents root formation, do not multiply in the water.

When rooting cuttings, it is necessary to maintain a temperature above 25ºС. High air humidity promotes rapid rooting. Usually roots appear within 3-4 weeks. When they lengthen to 4-5 cm, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.

Cuttings are often rooted directly in the soil. To do this, you can take a standard soil mixture for ficuses, which contains turf and leaf soil, peat and sand in a combination of 4:4:2:1.

Cuttings also root well in a mixture of peat and sand in a 2:1 ratio. For rooting you need a container with moist soil.

Ficus cuttings are buried into the ground by 1 node and covered with plastic wrap on top. or glass jars. The substrate must be moist, and the air temperature during rooting should not be lower than 25ºC.

The container with cuttings must be opened and ventilated daily to prevent rotting.

In such conditions, in about a month, young leaves will appear on the cuttings. After this, you can gradually remove the film from them so that they get used to the air humidity in a city apartment. When the cuttings actively begin to grow, they are transplanted into separate pots.

Stem cuttings

A long cut ficus shoot can be cut into pieces with 3-4 leaves. These stem cuttings can also be rooted. They are prepared in the same way as apical cuttings, cutting off the lower part at an angle and drying the cut in air.

Roots on stem cuttings form much more slowly than on apical ones., and many stem fragments do not produce roots and disappear.

To increase the number of rooted stem cuttings, you can use drugs to improve root formation. If rooting occurs in water, the cuttings are soaked in a solution of the drug. If they are rooted in the ground, you need to powder the cut with stimulating powder.

Propagation by cuttings with one leaf

Thick shoots rubber ficus Can be cut into short pieces with one knot and one leaf. The lower cut of such cuttings is made at an angle in the middle of the lower internode, the upper cut in the middle of the upper internode.

The ficus leaf is rolled into a tube and secured with an elastic band or adhesive tape.

Prepared cuttings with one leaf are rooted only in the ground. They are buried in damp soil up to the petiole of the leaf. The temperature for rooting them is the same as for rooting other cuttings. To create constant air humidity, the container with the cuttings is covered with film.

Formation of air layering

An aerial layer is a part of a ficus shoot with formed aerial roots, which can be cut off and planted in the ground.

To form aerial roots, make 2 circular cuts on the ficus branch at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other. The bark between them is carefully removed, and the bare area is sprinkled with rooting powder.

After this, the cut is wrapped in damp moss and covered with plastic wrap, which must be tied on both sides.

If you keep the moss moist, the branch will grow roots in this place, which will eventually break through the film. After this, the cuttings can be separated from the adult tree and planted in the ground.

Cuttings are the most common, but not the most effective method ficus propagation. Surely some part of the cut cuttings does not take root and disappears. But this is compensated by a large number of them as a result of the formative spring pruning of the tree.

The method of propagating ficus by air layering is the most effective, but labor-intensive.

Ficus is a rather unique flower, because unlike other indoor plants, it only grows upward. Not every gardener will be happy about this fact. Indeed, in this case, you will have to regularly prune in order to give the ficus the necessary shape. However, not everyone can do this task, because only a few know how to trim a ficus.

Features of the plant

One of the well-known representatives of the mulberry family is the rubber plant, which is usually classified as a member of the genus Ficus. The usual habitats of this plant are India, as well as southern part of Indonesia and West Side Africa. In countries with harsher climates, this flower has become widespread as a ornamental plant. However, it is valued not only because of its attractiveness, because large varieties of this ficus serve as raw materials for the production of rubber.

Specimens that grow in natural conditions have impressive sizes, which can be up to 40 m in height. Moreover, they often form support roots. The latter are distinguished by the fact that they penetrate deep into the ground, where they take root. More compact is the rubber-bearing ficus, grown at home, since most often it reaches a height of up to 10 m. After routine pruning, this variety begins to look even more miniature.

Beneficial features

Ficus rubber is interesting for many not only because of its decorative properties, because when grown indoors you can support healthy atmosphere . The cleansing effect is provided by the leaves, which filter the air like a pipe. As a result of such filtration, the output is air enriched with oxygen.

Many plant growers are attracted to the rubber ficus by the fact that it does not create problems in care. Instances grown at home do not form flowers, and at the same time they are demanding in terms of growing conditions. The main thing is to make sure that the plant is protected from direct sunlight, as well as to carry out regular watering and periodically give it a warm shower.

Physiology of ficus growth

Ficus rubber can be given any shape. To do this, you just need to trim it correctly. As a result of this operation, from an inconspicuous-looking plant you can get unique home decoration. Moreover, even a novice gardener can master this task, but first he will have to familiarize himself with the pruning rules and adhere to them.

The change in the shape of Ficus Benjamin occurs due to new shoots, which usually appear from the buds. Ficus has only two of them:

apical (located at the very top of the bush);
lateral, or axillary (located in the axils of the leaves, where the petioles of the leaves are closely adjacent to the trunk).

The apical bud demonstrates the fastest growth, ahead of the lateral buds, which develop very slowly or show no signs of development at all. It is enough to remove the top bud so that the side buds can begin to develop well. Usually the shoots begin to grow in different directions. As a result of such manipulations, the plant begins to change its crown.

Before you start forming the crown, it doesn’t hurt to find out what time of year is best to do this.

Many people believe that It is best to hold this event in the spring, and they will be right. The formation of the crown, planned for this time of year, makes it possible to give the plant more splendor, since it is in the spring that the ficus is created best conditions for growth. Using a similar approach, a gardener can grow a Ficus Benjamina that will be well developed, with fully formed shoots in all directions.

It is not advisable to postpone pruning ficus Benjamin to a later time, for example, autumn or winter, since in this case the shoots will develop within a specific area. This will cause the ficus to look lopsided. It must be borne in mind that at this time of year the ficus begins to use nutrients , which he accumulated in his escapes. As a result of pruning the shoots in the fall, you will leave the Benjamin ficus without these reserves, jeopardizing its survival.

During the formation of the crown, it is necessary not only to change the length of the shoots, but also to adjust the direction of their further growth. For this purpose, special tension devices are usually used.

Crown formation without pruning

There is no need to rush into pruning the rubber ficus. First, it’s worth thinking about whether there is an urgent need for this. There is a simpler way to form a crown, which involves changing direction and securing the necessary shoots. This approach to the formation of the crown allows you to minimize injuries to the plant, which can continue to grow, delighting the owner with a beautiful view. After waiting some time so that the branches can take a new position, the fixing devices are removed.

During pruning it is necessary take into account the age of the plant. This operation causes the least harm to young bushes. You need to be more careful with mature plants: since their shoots are not very flexible, shortening them and other similar actions can seriously injure the plant.

Ficus rubber: how to form the crown correctly?

The rules below designed for single ficus bushes, forming into one trunk.

In general, pruning ficus rubber is a simple task. The main thing is that you need to strictly follow all the rules for conducting it. Yes, it is necessary to be very careful with milky juice, which is dangerous to humans due to its toxicity. To avoid undesirable consequences, this work must be carried out wearing protective gloves.

Formation of an unusual crown

If necessary, even a novice plant grower can give the ficus rubber plant quite original shape.

In the process of pruning ficus benjamina or rubber plant, care must be taken to so that the braid does not subsequently open. To do this, it is recommended to garter the trunks using soft threads. It's best if they are woolen. Typically, dressings are performed every two months.

In some cases, for the normal development of the ficus, the installation of a support is required. In this case, you can easily see how spectacular and original the rubber plant will be.

Conclusion

Ficus rubber, however, like other representatives of this family, is best known for its decorativeness. However, this does not mean that the grower will not have to take measures for this. If you know how to form the crown of ficus Benjamin, then you can easily cope with the rubber-bearing species.

You should know that only those specimens that are subject to regular pruning. After all, the beauty of the ficus can be achieved through the formation of the crown. Beginning gardeners can also prune ficus benjamina beautifully at home, because ficus plants are very compact plants, so there are no particular difficulties in carrying out this operation.

How to properly form a ficus crown

Ficus plants are pretty plants. They can be miniature or reaching to the ceiling, formed in the form of a trunk or in the bonsai style. Many varieties and the ability to create interesting compositions attract the attention of gardeners to this plant. It is not at all difficult to get a new ficus. To keep the crown beautiful, it needs to be trimmed regularly, leaving cuttings that can be rooted. Ficus propagation works best in spring or late winter, when it moves from relative dormancy into the active growth phase.

How does ficus reproduce?

In nature, numerous species of this family, of course, produce fruit. At home, only ficus microcarpa reproduces by seeds. Rubber-bearing varieties lack this ability, just like Ficus Benjamin. Propagation of these plants can only be done vegetatively, that is, as part of a shoot.

How to prepare cuttings?

This is not difficult to do. Ficus propagation will be successful if you do everything carefully and follow the rules. The branch should be cut with a sharp knife, pointing it at an angle to the stem. You can do this with a blade. It is better not to use scissors: they leave torn and wrinkled edges, the tissue is injured, and roots form slowly. The released milky juice must be washed off, otherwise after hardening it will interfere with root formation. The length of the cutting is about 15 cm. It is better to remove the lower leaves; the remaining leaves, if they are large, are rolled into a tube and secured in this position. This is necessary so that the plant loses less moisture.

Ficus propagation by leaf

From one ficus branch you can get several young plants. Their number is limited by the number of leaves, that is, nodes. It is in these places that axillary buds awaken, from which new shoots develop. It should be noted that one leaf without a node can produce roots. But without buds, the plant does not develop. When propagating ficus by leaf with part of the stem, the upper cut is made horizontal and the lower cut at an angle. Most of the internode should be left under the node. The sheet must be rolled into a tube and secured with an elastic band or tape.

Rooting cuttings

The prepared material can be placed in water or directly into the ground. When rooting in water, it is preferable to use dark dishes, since light promotes the proliferation of microscopic algae. At the same time, the quality of the water deteriorates, and propagation of the ficus may fail. To prevent rotting, the leaves should not get wet. After the roots appear, you need to plant the plant in a pot.
It is better to cover the ficus with a jar or film and create a small greenhouse for it. The shoot needs moist air. When will the first one appear? new leaf, you can open a young ficus.

Reproduction at home cannot be done without good soil. To obtain a suitable substrate, you need to mix peat, sand and vermiculite in equal parts. It is better to disinfect the soil by heating it in a steam bath for half an hour. If the cutting is several centimeters long, it should be fixed in a pot. To do this, a peg is threaded through the folded sheet and firmly buried in the ground.

Ficus propagation by air layering

Varieties with variegated leaves do not take root well. Their low chlorophyll content makes them more sensitive to any test. But beautiful appearance more important than the vagaries of plants such as ficus benjamina. Reproduction with a kind of insurance will help to obtain a new specimen. In nature, many ficus plants form aerial roots. There is even such a life form - the banyan tree. Many roots hang from the crown, which reach the soil, go deeper, and gradually turn into peculiar trunks. It turns out to be one big tree-forest. You can also use this feature of ficus trees at home. You just need to create the right conditions.

There is no need to cut the cutting, we will shape it root system on a branch of a large ficus. To do this, under the node on the stem you need to make a vertical cut 0.5 cm long. To speed up the process, you can stick a match sprinkled with Kornevin powder into it. Next, we attach a substrate of wet sphagnum to the branch, cover it with film and tie it. It will take several months to form a sufficiently strong root system. Then you can cut off the cuttings and plant them in a pot. This method is good because you can immediately get a fairly large ficus. Reproduction (photos presented here) by air layering is less traumatic. A ready-made, strong specimen with a good root system is planted. If you propagate ficus by cuttings, the new plant will reach this size in a few years.

If the ficus is quite old, has lost its lower leaves and has lost its attractiveness, you can rejuvenate it by obtaining an aerial root system. To do this, you need to cut a ring of bark from the trunk, the width of the strip is 2-3 cm. You can make shallow oblique notches. The wounds should be covered with damp moss and covered with film. When a ficus is replanted with new roots, it does not become much smaller, but its appearance improves. In this way you can rejuvenate the ficus. Reproduction at home, as you can see, is a simple process; you just need to periodically moisten the moss.

How to speed up root formation?

It is useful to fertilize both rubber-bearing varieties and Ficus Benjamin. Propagation of these plants is also more efficient and faster with the use of special means.

The cuttings last about a month in a jar of water. During this time, roots are formed. They develop from callus - tissue that is responsible for plant growth and is formed in damaged areas. To speed up the propagation of ficus by cuttings, you need to make shallow scratches on the part of the cutting that will be in the ground. You can use special preparations to stimulate rooting, for example, Kornevin. If you put the cuttings in water, then before doing this you need to soak them in a solution of the drug. When rooting in the soil, the sections are powdered with a powdered stimulant.

Care and watering

Ficuses are generally unpretentious. They need a lot of light, but some varieties should not be placed on the windowsill. The best place is near the east or west window. Illumination should be uniform. Ficus plants with variegated leaves need brighter light. White or pink areas do not contain chlorophyll. If there is insufficient lighting, the leaves may lose their beauty and turn green.

Improper care weakens the ficus. Reproduction at home is possible only when the plant was initially strong and healthy.

First, take care of your large ficus tree. Juice may leak out of a fresh cut for a long time. Therefore, you should sprinkle it with crushed charcoal or press it with a cotton swab.

Secondly, the young plant must be placed in an evenly lit place. With a lack of light, the internodes stretch out, and the ficus takes on an unaesthetic appearance.

A permanent place for a young plant must be determined in advance. Ficus does not like rearrangements, especially species with more delicate foliage. Stress has a strong effect on the plant. Leaves may turn yellow and fall off due to changes in lighting, too high or low temperature.

When rooting in a substrate, you first need to keep the cuttings in water for about two hours so that a crust of congealed juice does not form.

Any plant needs, first of all, care. Ficus propagation will be successful if you do not forget to care for it: moisten the moss for the aerial roots, change the water when rooting cuttings, monitor the development of young shoots, and form a beautiful crown. House plants always delight a caring owner with their health and beauty.